I was using my Tractor this week for the first time really working it after getting it back from dealer. They put rear remote in that was on back order when I bought tractor.. I haven't used remote yet. I was blowing snow with my rear blower and it seemed to be struggling a little but thought maybe it was a little slushy under snow. I then took a ride to knock down some snow banks around the corner. I put it High and took off down the road. PTO was off for blower and when I stepped all the way down on HST the tractor was again struggling. I let up on pedal and it seemed fine at half pedal until I pushed it all the way down. Engine would loose rpm . It kind of felt like the Hydraulics where loading it down. If I messed with the rear remote with nothing attached it seemed to load it down to a little while driving. I have the hydraulic chute rotator hooked to my front 3rd function to rotate it. When I first tried to rotate it would only go one way and not go back opposite direction. I swapped lines to get it to go back to the direction to the way I needed it. I have used it with the 3rd function for 2 seasons now. Once I started using blower it started to rotate back and forth like normal. The rotate problem was first. before I went for the ride. After I was done I put it back in garage and let it sit for a little bit and then came out to check fluid level figuring maybe it lost a little when they put the rear remote on. The fluid was a just above the high line on dip stick. I pulled air cleaner and it had a little bit of pieces of crap from brush cutting before the dealer trip. I looked quick at fuel filter which looked clean and nothing I could see in it. It is the original and tractor has about 75 hrs. on it. I did all the Hydraulic filters and full fluid change at 50hrs. Tractor ran brush cutter no problem all summer after I did the fluid change. When tractor would load down I didn't notice any smoke from exhaust. So basically thinking something is up with rear remote. Dealer was closed all weekend so haven't called them yet. I am kind of new with tractor Hydraulics. The dealer picked up and dropped tractor off at my cabin while I wasn't there when they installed the rear remote. I am not really familiar with it but looked pretty straight forward how to use it so never questioned them how to use it. I'm I missing something. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give all details. Thanks Rich
B2650 feels sluggish
- Thread starter Highmarket
- Start date
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Nothing wrong with the long post - people who explain things well in great detail will get a good answer when one becomes available. Those that have the ONE sentence post are the ones that are hard to solve!!!
What rpm are you running the blower ?
Fuel new? Or leftover from summer/fall?
Have you added anything for treatment to the fuel? - sounds to me that you have a gelling problem, when you demand a lot of fuel, you are not getting it.
IF hydraulics were causing the RPMs to drop - I would think it would be noticeable at any rpm - but then again, anything is possible.
What rpm are you running the blower ?
Fuel new? Or leftover from summer/fall?
Have you added anything for treatment to the fuel? - sounds to me that you have a gelling problem, when you demand a lot of fuel, you are not getting it.
IF hydraulics were causing the RPMs to drop - I would think it would be noticeable at any rpm - but then again, anything is possible.
It was down below a quarter of tank. It is from the End of summer. I filled it back with the winter diesel I use a fuel treatment in winter only. just can remember the brand. Unfortunately I didn’t run it again after I filled it. I was going to hit the dealer on my way up and grab a new fuel filter and air filter.
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
It sounds like a fuel gelling problem to me. If you have already added a winter fuel treatment, you can still have residual wax buildup in the fuel line. Try using some Diesel Kleen 911 in the red bottle. It will break up wax deposits and clear the fuel line. If you do that, I bet it starts acting normal.
I will get some of the red bottle 911. The rotate problem was making me think something with hydraulics. It rotate worked the rest of the night without issues.
armylifer
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When you use the 911 treatment you still have to use a winter fuel supplement too. Diesel Kleen 911 will not prevent gelling, it just cleans out what has already gelled. They recommend using the winter additive at the same time as the 911. BTW, this statement is from their website; use Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost (in the white bottle) as a preventive measure to keep fuel from gelling. Diesel 911 and Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost are compatible in diesel fuel and may be used at the same time.
Diesel 911 - Diesel Fuel Additive
Diesel 911 is a winter emergency use product that restores the flow of diesel fuel to an engine caused by gelled fuel or frozen fuel filters.
powerservice.com
You're expecting too much.
Snow blowers suck HP and you have less than 20 at the PTO.
Full speed in high range also sucks HP, especially with added weight, e.g., snow blower, FEL, liquid ballast, etc.
Back off on the HST pedal a bit and you'll be fine.
SDT
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
SDT, the OP stated " When tractor would load down I didn't notice any smoke from exhaust. ". This indicates fuel starvation, as in restricted fuel flow. If he was losing RPM and smoke was present in the exhaust that would indicate full fuel flow and an engine trying to keep up with power demand.
So, the symptom stated would indicate gelled fuel, given the temperatures he stated. Also, the fuel filter was highly likely to have been getting some snow touching it and thereby cooling the fuel even more. I stand by my diagnosis and I await the OPs response after treating his fuel and running it again.
Im sure you checked, but have to ask..... is the parking brake on? No indicator light on the 2650 so it can be overlooked if barely engaged....
Such was once true but no longer.
None of my Kubotas except my 1993 B1750 show any visible smoke at stall.
He's expecting too much.
SDT
SDT. I have using blower for 3 winters now. I totally understand it takes HP to move that thing. There is something up with it. I have snow blowed through a couple of feet of snow and it worked fine and would really only struggle at mouth of driveway where it was really packed in from plows. It was not acting right with 8” the most. The driving even when I brought it up to speed slowly and was roll g good if I pushed to floor it felt like the hydraulics where slowing it down.
I hope to get back up there in a few days and really pay attention to rpm and try the additive and new filter. I use howes diesel treatment in winter but the last batch didn’t have anything in it from end of summer.
I hope to get back up there in a few days and really pay attention to rpm and try the additive and new filter. I use howes diesel treatment in winter but the last batch didn’t have anything in it from end of summer.
Highmarket, the first winter I used my B2650 for blowing snow I experienced the same thing. But my outside temp when that happened was well below 0°F and if I remember right was more like -20°F. My diesel fuel was definitely not gelling but I was definitely losing engine rpms. I found my hydraulic oil cooler in front of the radiator was letting the hydraulic oil get so cold that it was causing a loss of rpms.
That, and the fact that I couldn't get the engine temp up in the midrange started my experimenting with the winter front covers. As soon as I completely blocked off the front of the grill and side openings the loss of rpm problem disappeared. Removed the covers and soon the loss of rpms was back.
This was happening at quite colder temps than what you described but might be worth considering. I remember you have a set of covers from me but without knowing if you were using them I thought it could be another factor along with the fuel, filters, etc.
David
David I did have the front cover on but not the sides. I don't remember the exact temp but I think it was 2 bars at the time. It was high twenty's outside both times I was running it. Those covers are great by the way. i put the sides on when it is really cold. Thanks
nbryan
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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
When you say full throttle, do you mean it's being run at the rated rpm?
When I hear "full throttle" something inside me cringes a bit, as that describes, to me, having the throttle lever all the way physically opened to it's mechanical stop.
When I do that on my B2650 the engine flies way past its rated 2500 rpm hundreds of rpm at least (I always pull the lever back right away if it accidentally gets floored, never time to check rpm) and I don't think working these engines wide open like that does them or the attached "matched" implements any favors.
But if you mean "rated rpm" by "full throttle", that's different.
Well, that about rules out the cold hydraulic oil scenario. At least that's another item checked off the list of possibilities. Will be interested in what you finally figure out. Hopefully you'll get it solved quickly.
nbryan
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Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
The only time my B2650 struggled under load of heavy snow clearing with the B2782B, other than warranted workouts in really heavy and deep conditions, is when it had sucked enough snow crystals through the engine air intake (which normally draws from the front of the rad) to almost totally plug up the air filter housing.
I wouldn't have mentioned it but you mentioned bringing your machine inside before checking it out, which may have melted any snow packed into the cleaner before you looked in there.
Mine also started smoking under load, obviously air starved.
I moved the intake pipe just inside the engine compartment, which solved that issue for me.
But I've run it in -20C windy conditions @ 2500 rated rpm blowing deep stuff for kilometers and never since have had trouble keeping above 2400 rpm under load. She just goes.
And that is without ANY rad or hood covers. Rarely got 3 bars, but I have changed that now.
I wouldn't have mentioned it but you mentioned bringing your machine inside before checking it out, which may have melted any snow packed into the cleaner before you looked in there.
Mine also started smoking under load, obviously air starved.
I moved the intake pipe just inside the engine compartment, which solved that issue for me.
But I've run it in -20C windy conditions @ 2500 rated rpm blowing deep stuff for kilometers and never since have had trouble keeping above 2400 rpm under load. She just goes.
And that is without ANY rad or hood covers. Rarely got 3 bars, but I have changed that now.