3301 hitch pin stuck

random

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I'm trying to remove the three-point hitch to attach my backhoe, but one of the pins seems to have gotten stuck - rust perhaps? I used some WD-40 rust release (much like liquid wrench) and managed to get it to move a little, but now I can't move it any farther. Brute force isn't working simply because I don't have any angle to get to it now. It's not far out of the outside socket (far right end in pic) to get anything "behind" it to lever it out, and there's not enough room for anything other than a small screwdriver (that's bending alarmingly) under the bold flange (the part with the hold pointing downward)

Any suggestions how to get it off, other than cutting it?

pin.jpg
 

MOOTS

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Crescent or pipe wrench on the flats to get moving. Keep soaking with penetrating oil. Wiggle 3pt arm up and down while twisting and pulling pin out.
 
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Dave_eng

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I think you have removed the small bolt 040 which is necessary to get the pin out.

What puzzles me is not seeing a hole in the plate attached to the big pin 030 when I look at your photo.

What you could do if the bolt is out completely is to use the bolt hole to make a puller of sorts.

put a nut and washer behind the small hole in 030. Thread a bolt in to engage the nut and go completely through the nut until it is pushing on the body of the axle housing.

Now you can exert some outward force on the pin as you screw in this temporary bolt.

Do not over do the force applied to the axle housing



forum L3301 3 pt.jpg


Dave
 
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random

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What puzzles me is not seeing a hole in the plate attached to the big pin 030 when I look at your photo.

What you could do if the bolt is out completely is to use the bolt hole to make a puller of sorts.

put a nut and washer behind the small hole in 030. Thread a bolt in to engage the nut and go completely through the nut until it is pushing on the body of the axle housing.

Now you can exert some outward force on the pin as you screw in this temporary bolt.

Dave
Thanks for the diagram, that helps to be clear what we're discussing.

Pin 030 is rotated a bit over 90-degrees ccw, you can see the bolt hole near the end if you look closely. I like your suggestion, the only difficulty being that the pin is rotated far enough that the bold wouldn't push against the housing. I think between your suggestion and Matt's about a cresecent to rotate it, I might be able to work something out.

Thank you both!
 

Fordtech86

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Thanks for the diagram, that helps to be clear what we're discussing.

Pin 030 is rotated a bit over 90-degrees ccw, you can see the bolt hole near the end if you look closely. I like your suggestion, the only difficulty being that the pin is rotated far enough that the bold wouldn't push against the housing. I think between your suggestion and Matt's about a cresecent to rotate it, I might be able to work something out.

Thank you both!
X2 on what Matt said. Been there with mine, cresent wrench on the flats and keep working it. When I go back together I put antiseize on the pins and bolts
 

random

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X2 on what Matt said. Been there with mine, cresent wrench on the flats and keep working it. When I go back together I put antiseize on the pins and bolts
Yeah I used the antiseize too, but I guess I just left the attachment on too long. Going to try again tomorrow.
 

Dave_eng

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Yeah I used the antiseize too, but I guess I just left the attachment on too long. Going to try again tomorrow.
A tool that is very useful is a pickle fork bar.

Its wedge shape is like a big pipe on the end of a ratchet bar.

Many auto parts places loan them out.

If other steps fail, get one whose jaw is the size of the stuck pin and drive it between the head of the pin and the axle.

forum pickle fork.jpg


Dave
 
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GeoHorn

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If the pin will rotate within the hole... it may be rotating the “ball” in the hitch lift-arm because the pin is corroded and stuck in the ball. Drive the ball-joint separator fork or a chisel beneath the pin head to move it laterally. The lift-arm ball is likely absorbing a lot of the movement since it’s likely frozen to the pin.
 

Russell King

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You need to use a better penetrating oil than WD-40, try something like PB-Blaster, Kroil or similar compounds that are good at getting through the rust.

Also remember that if it moves out a little then driving it back in will also help break the bond of the rust. You may want to put a thin shim behind the arm if you do drive it back together so you can get a prying action to move it back out.
 
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RCW

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If the great suggestions don't pan out, I'd be inclined to pull the wheel, then hit it with an air hammer to drive it from the outboard side.

It's a pain, true. But like others said, I'd be concerned with too much brute force to crack or break something.

I think others have given great pointers....get it rotating, and then pickle fork would be worth a try, but not to heavy-handed...

I have to qualify, I've been tinkering with a 70 year old tractor all weekend....everything I do is qualified by "if I break this, I can't get another one..." :unsure:
 
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random

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If the great suggestions don't pan out, I'd be inclined to pull the wheel, then hit it with an air hammer to drive it from the outboard side.
I haven't see the outside, but I'm not sure it goes all the way through.

It was looser today, maybe just letting the rust penetrant sit and work helped. I was going to use the crescent wrench to rotate it to where I could try the bolt trick but just turning it a couple times with the wrench popped it loose. Thanks all for the suggestions - all going on file if I ever need them again!

I'll look into that tool, too. Never heard of that, looks like there's a lot of places it could be useful.
 
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GeoHorn

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Great! Glad it came loose for you.
 
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Russell King

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I was going to use the crescent wrench to rotate it to where I could try the bolt trick but just turning it a couple times with the wrench popped it loose.
Good to hear you have succeeded!