Plowing with a B series

[Tornado]

Wheelhorse:

Cub Cadet:

Farmall Cub:

Kubota BX: https:

Kubota B:

I am just saying you can plow with little light tractors and do a good job. As with any garden the first year will leave a lot to be desired. Add the amendments as mentioned earlier in this thread will make the second year much more productive.

Two acres will plow pretty quickly but I would mow it short and plow it under in the fall. This will improve the production for next summer.

Do take the soil to be tested for ph and have the additions to the soil this fall. Look at what you want to grow and match the amendments as to what you need. Prepping the soil this fall will help next years crop. Adding amendments to the soil such as chopped leaves, fireplace ashes, saw dust will help condition the soil.

A disk also called a harrow could be purchased off of Craig's List or Facebook and save you some money. A tiller is nice but there is maintenance for them and they cost a lot of money and as stated before rocks and roots will give you problems. It might behoove you to have a neighbor with a large tractor plow it the first time. After that you will be ok.

Read as much as you have time for for ideas of how to dry and store all those potatoes and a good potatoes plow will make life easier.

Also need to think about a walk behind tiller for keeping the weeds at bay. Find you a old neighbor and soak in the wisdom he/she has about growing gardens in your area.

Best of luck

I'm glad you shared this. If I had taken advice I got off these forums when considering my disc harrow, I probably wouldn't have gotten it. Some smart folks, who know more about these things than I do told me the disc was too big and too heavy for my tractor, that I wouldn't be able to pull it in most circumstances, and that I wouldn't pull it at all in the most aggressively angled settings. All of that turned out to be incorrect. The L2501 has pulled my disc in every scenario I have put it in. I have never had it just stall and the tractor not be able to pull it. In the most aggressive settings and with the discs burried in tilled ground, I do have to step into 4WD, but as soon as I do the tractor pulls it without issue. Anything less than full aggressive settings the tractor pulls it in 2WD. If I put the harrow at around 50% aggressive settings the tractor pulls it really easily in fact, and it does a great job. Im not sure why some on these forums seem to consistently under estimate what a tractor will do and end up giving consistently poor advice because of it. I am glad I went against the advice on my own instincts and got my disc. I had a feeling the L2501 would handle it just form what I had experienced with my tractor, and I was right in that case.

I would encourage the OP to lean on his Gut feeling. You know your tractor and you've worked i in a number of different scenarios and should have a feel for what its capable of. Again I think if anything were to limit the OP it will be weight. Weight is a problem that you can actually address a little. If you have no ballast in your rear tires for example I would 100% look into adding that. It will add several hundreds pounds and its completely hidden. I would never own a small tractor with FEL without ballast tires.

 

[Fordtech86]

I'm glad you shared this. If I had taken advice I got off these forums when considering my disc harrow, I probably wouldn't have gotten it. Some smart folks, who know more about these things than I do told me the disc was too big and too heavy for my tractor, that I wouldn't be able to pull it in most circumstances, and that I wouldn't pull it at all in the most aggressively angled settings. All of that turned out to be incorrect. The L2501 has pulled my disc in every scenario I have put it in. I have never had it just stall and the tractor not be able to pull it. In the most aggressive settings and with the discs burried in tilled ground, I do have to step into 4WD, but as soon as I do the tractor pulls it without issue. Anything less than full aggressive settings the tractor pulls it in 2WD. If I put the harrow at around 50% aggressive settings the tractor pulls it really easily in fact, and it does a great job. Im not sure why some on these forums seem to consistently under estimate what a tractor will do and end up giving consistently poor advice because of it. I am glad I went against the advice on my own instincts and got my disc. I had a feeling the L2501 would handle it just form what I had experienced with my tractor, and I was right in that case.

I would encourage the OP to lean on his Gut feeling. You know your tractor and you've worked i in a number of different scenarios and should have a feel for what its capable of. Again I think if anything were to limit the OP it will be weight. Weight is a problem that you can actually address a little. If you have no ballast in your rear tires for example I would 100% look into adding that. It will add several hundreds pounds and its completely hidden. I would never own a small tractor with FEL without ballast tires.

Yeah I’m with you there, I’ve been told my L wouldn’t pull a two bottom 14” plow (even after I had mentioned it has done it) with loader off and R4s that are not filled

 

[torch]

I don't have a plow and have never pulled a plow, so I may be way off here. But I imagine the HP and traction required must be related to the nature of the soil. Is it sandy or clay? is it virgin or previously cultivated? Is it full of tree roots or grassland? The videos offered up all seem to be turning previously cultivated land with no complications or obstructions. This would seem consistent with the original advice to beg, borrow or steal a larger tractor for the first pass.

 

[SDT]

I 'gold standard' for a market garden tractor was and still is the A-C G. The one I bought off local farmer had been used to do 50 acres, every year for 50 years. When new they had 10HP.....
D2 has a great idea..get neighbour to do the first plowing, over winter ,soil will break down. I always plow every fall,wait 2 weeks, till, then sow rye

I believe that the AC G used a 10" single bottom plow, but it may have been a 12".

Gs were quite common in my area for cultivating tobacco with a side dresser.

According to NE Test Number 398, 07/16 - 07/30, 1948, the AC G produced 10.07 belt HP and 7.26 drawbar HP. As tested, without additional ballast (beyond the standard equipment front weight), it weighed 1,549 Lbs.

SDT

 

[bird dogger]

As kids, my brother and I raised a couple of acres of onions to sell. Our local pastor also raised and sold vegetables. Between us we shared an Allis Chalmers "G" tractor set up as a row crop cultivator. What a great (and FUN) little tractor!! Would sure like to have one today.

I believe Honda and maybe another engine maker made re-power engine conversions for the AC G. Not sure if they're still available or not. A nice Honda engine would really make the G a sweet little truck farming tractor today!!

If I remember right.....the road gear really moved that tractor along, or so it seemed to a young lad back in the '60s.

 

[BigG]

As kids, my brother and I raised a couple of acres of onions to sell. Our local pastor also raised and sold vegetables. Between us we shared an Allis Chalmers "G" tractor set up as a row crop cultivator. What a great (and FUN) little tractor!! Would sure like to have one today.

I believe Honda and maybe another engine maker made re-power engine conversions for the AC G. Not sure if they're still available or not. A nice Honda engine would really make the G a sweet little truck farming tractor today!!

If I remember right.....the road gear really moved that tractor along, or so it seemed to a young lad back in the '60s.

The sort of still make a "G". There are two brands Tilmore

and Oggun