overwhelmed by choices, please help

[UpNorthMI]

Based on your initial post you at least need a L series. If you work smart it will do many amazing things for you however it is still a “small” tractor”. From the tasks you are describing of road, house site and garden of several acres, I would strongly recommend that you outsource these clearing tasks to someone with much heavier equipment. You will have lots left to do where a L2501 or similar will be an wonderful accessory for all your tasks. Don’t kill your new tractor trying to do things it is not really built for.

 

[i7win7]

B2650 will max out at 3-4" tree if you get a good grip on it. Tree species and soil conditions will affect push/pull capabilities. Stumps will require grinder, backhoe or dozer. For 1 time job, best to hire it out, pros will have heavy duty equipment better suited for the job.

My tractor has loaded tires and 3pt ballast. LX2610 is newer version of B2650.

 

[Fordtech86]

B2650 will max out at 3-4" tree if you get a good grip on it. Tree species and soil conditions will affect push/pull capabilities. Stumps will require grinder, backhoe or dozer. For 1 time job, best to hire it out, pros will have heavy duty equipment better suited for the job.

My tractor has loaded tires and 3pt ballast. LX2610 is newer version of B2650.
View attachment 44974 View attachment 44975 View attachment 44976

Did the 2650 pull that last pic straight from the ground, root ball and all? And where in central IL are you? Im from central IL too but its kind of a broad area

 

[therealhotrod]

Based on your initial post you at least need a L series. If you work smart it will do many amazing things for you however it is still a “small” tractor”. From the tasks you are describing of road, house site and garden of several acres, I would strongly recommend that you outsource these tasks to someone with much heavier equipment. You will have lots left to do where a L2501 or similar will be an wonderful accessory for all your tasks. Don’t kill your new tractor trying to do things it is not really built for.

I'm confused, if the loader and backhoe are the same capacity, and the same unit respectively, what would the L2501 do that the B2650 couldn't? They both have the same engine AND PTO power available. Especially if it sounds like any way I go I'm digging up the stumps

Also, how would any task a tractor can perform "kill" a tractor as long as the implement was performance matched to the tractor? tractors are new to me, so I'm trying to learn.

The cab serves a comfort purpose, but also because I would likely occasionally have my child with me, and no way in hell would I trust her on a tractor without having a way to keep her safe. at least in my mind, if I have the cab, she could be with my while I do safer chores and she would be incredibly unlikely to fall off the tractor, especially if I lock the doors. That's not to say I can't get a curtiss cab or similar for less that allows ventilation. Also it looks like the curtiss cabs at least use coolant to provide heat? so how would that draw a significant amount of HP? even if I didn't use the heat, it would allow me not to have the wind and snow blowing in my face.

I'm not buying a bigger tractor just because I want one for a couple reasons: A: it needs to be able to go in the woods and I don't want to make huge trails to accommodate it; bigger tractors use bigger parts, and will cost more money WHEN they eventually break, I need the whole deal to be as close to the 4000LBS I can tow with the vehicle/trailer combo i have.

I'm also not outsourcing work, I'll just buy the tractor and figure out how to do it. I do most of this work now by hand and will continue to do so before I outsource anything. I move tons of dirt with a shovel and small crossover, I skid trees with a compact sedan and lawn tractor, and I tow broken cars with minivans, I cut down many trees with a chainsaw. all of this every year, year after year. I'm used to getting the most out of my equipment without breaking it, I'm just trying to make my job easier by buying a tractor. If the L is actually better than the b at any of these tasks, I will gladly buy one, but I would like to know how/what/how much more it will actually do than the B.

Also, at least price wise, at this moment, the LX costs within $100 as I configured it compared to the L, so it's really between the L and B for me, unless pricing changes.

 

[i7win7]

Did the 2650 pull that last pic straight from the ground, root ball and all? And where in central IL are you? Im from central IL too but its kind of a broad area

Hardest thing I ever pulled - cedar tree stump - top was cut off about 2 months before pulling. Had to rock tractor back and forth about 20 times. Each time a little more of the earth moved. Spooky when rear end left ground - impessive clamping action.

Under 1/2" stuff just breaks off, 1-2" FEL usually pulls it, 2-3" clamp on and drive forward. 3-4" may require rocking, sometimes let go and try from different angle.

If it won't pull I leave about 3' stump, rather bump into it and stop tractor than suddenly tip tractor and cause rollover. Working on my own clearing project.

 

[i7win7]

Also, how would any task a tractor can perform "kill" a tractor as long as the implement was performance matched to the tractor? tractors are new to me, so I'm trying to learn.

When rear end leaves the ground it's hard on front axle. worst case tractor breaks in half.

FEL can get bent, hydraulic cylinder rams can bend or break, operator error can cause roll-over.

 

[therealhotrod]

When rear end leaves the ground it's hard on front axle. worst case tractor breaks in half.

FEL can get bent, hydraulic cylinder rams can bend or break, operator error can cause roll-over.

I can understand that, what I was referring to is grading a driveway or plowing a garden like upnorthmi implied would damage it

 

[i7win7]

I can understand that, what I was referring to is grading a driveway or plowing a garden like upnorthmi implied would damage it

Generally speaking no, but unforseen things can happen, with safety devices ex. pto slip clutches rust and fail to slip, user replaces shear bolt with hardened bolt (pto could be damaged)

This new tractor owner had a failure that should be covered by warranty

Brand new 1735M broke after ~3hrs of use. Is this a freak occurrence?

Did I just have some bad luck? Or do these things break like this on a regular basis? Another user mentioned seeing a similar break, but wasn't sure if it was a Massey. This broke pulling the same box blade my Ford 2N has been pulling for years. I'm new here and have been lurking and reading...

www.tractorbynet.com

Tractors are durable goods and will last years or your lifetime but, they can be abused and stuff can break. I prefer JD, NH, CASE/IH and Kubota they usually have well stocked parts departments and knowledgeable mechanics that can answer questions.

 

[Freeheeler]

I'm confused, if the loader and backhoe are the same capacity, and the same unit respectively, what would the L2501 do that the B2650 couldn't? They both have the same engine AND PTO power available. Especially if it sounds like any way I go I'm digging up the stumps

That was my exact question when I was looking to purchase. It boils down to physics. If you are plowing, say at 2 mph, and the plow hits a stump/rock/whatever, how much force is exerted through the plow onto the object? The heavier tractor has more rolling mass (momentum) and will exert more force than the lighter tractor. If you are carrying a full bucket up gravel up a hill, the heavier tractor will actually have to work harder than the lighter tractor because it is having to carry more weight (it's own) up that hill.
I think of it as 2 dudes, both can lift/carry the same weight (same hp, same hydraulic strength) but one is 185 lbs and one is 225. I chose the one with the better strength to weight ratio because I'm not plowing and I don't need the momentum/mass advantage. Being lighter has it's own advantages.

 

[therealhotrod]

Generally speaking no, but unforseen things can happen, with safety devices ex. pto slip clutches rust and fail to slip, user replaces shear bolt with hardened bolt (pto could be damaged)

This new tractor owner had a failure that should be covered by warranty

Brand new 1735M broke after ~3hrs of use. Is this a freak occurrence?

Did I just have some bad luck? Or do these things break like this on a regular basis? Another user mentioned seeing a similar break, but wasn't sure if it was a Massey. This broke pulling the same box blade my Ford 2N has been pulling for years. I'm new here and have been lurking and reading...

www.tractorbynet.com

Tractors are durable goods and will last years or your lifetime but, they can be abused and stuff can break. I prefer JD, NH, CASE/IH and Kubota they usually have well stocked parts departments and knowledgeable mechanics that can answer questions.

Right, but he's saying don't plow with an l, just use it for yard chores and pay someone else to plow the garden, dig up trees, ect...

I'm more than willing to work inside the limits of the tractor, I'm buying a tractor with a backhoe to use it, but I'm not going to buy a tractor just to outsource everything.

 

[PaulL]

In general if your tractor is standing still and you exert force on something, you won't break the tractor. Anything you have to take a run up at (swinging backhoe into it, driving FEL into it), or that you rock backwards and forwards, you have potential to be creating damage. And if you drive your machine to it's limits a lot, then you're working it harder than if you had a larger machine with larger limits. That's not just about the HP, it's about the beefiness of the machine itself - the L has I believe a stouter FEL and bigger axles and casings etc.

For mowing, back blading etc, those are all fine if done in a normal way. Digging with the backhoe pretty much the same given they're the same backhoe unit, again be careful on rocking back and forth or taking a run up.

When you get into ripping out trees or pushing them over, that's the kind of thing that breaks tractors. They're not really made for it. OK occasionally, but if that's a regular task, then get a backhoe or a bulldozer.

Most of it comes down to common sense.

I totally agree with you that any tractor you've mentioned, including a BX, will be enormously better than a shovel or a compact sedan. The question is whether an L would be better than an LX (aka large B). And I think the answer is yes in some circumstances, and the LX would be better in some other circumstances. If you want a cab, the answer is easy. No cab on an L, so get an LX. They are relatively similar machines in capability, the L is just built stronger. The L has a lot of supporters on here, as you're hearing, but each machine has its place. If you want a mid mower, a front snowblower, or a cab, then it's an LX (or a B2601). If you don't like digital dash, then it's B2601 or L. If you want more heft and more strongly built, it's an L.

Picking up a comment from earlier on digital dash - I agree with you I don't like them. But it wouldn't stop me buying the machine, it'll work fine for what it needs to, and I wouldn't go down to the B2601 just for that. I also wouldn't go to an L just for that - if it means you don't get a cab.

On the cab - strictly speaking your child isn't safe in the cab either. But I agree with you, I'd totally do that, and feel a hell of a lot safer in the cab than without.

 

[UpNorthMI]

Right, but he's saying don't plow with an l, just use it for yard chores and pay someone else to plow the garden, dig up trees, ect...

I'm more than willing to work inside the limits of the tractor, I'm buying a tractor with a backhoe to use it, but I'm not going to buy a tractor just to outsource everything.

my comment was based on you clearing 700ft of road, home site and several acre of garden, if this involves significant wood land clearing as you seem to indicate of 10” trees or bigger, this is what I meant about outsourcing that part. Yes a B or L with a backhoe will remove stumps but a large excavator will do what you need done in a day if you cut and clear the timber first. That stump work is hard on a small tractor. The other ground work, grading, moving material, skidding out trees or logs you can do with your tractor. The ongoing work you can do with your tractor. The reason I suggested the L series is weight, weight is important for stability and also traction for ground work.

good luck in selecting and using your new tractor

 

[michigander]

Recent YouTube on clearing 2 acres really looks fun to run .

 

[UpNorthMI]

Recent YouTube on clearing 2 acres really looks fun to run .

michigander thank you for that video it shows exactly what I was trying to explain to the OP.

 

[Fordtech86]

Right, but he's saying don't plow with an l, just use it for yard chores and pay someone else to plow the garden, dig up trees, ect...

I'm more than willing to work inside the limits of the tractor, I'm buying a tractor with a backhoe to use it, but I'm not going to buy a tractor just to outsource everything.

Wasn’t sure who you were referencing to, but I said the L won’t push over a 10” tree and to get a dozer if that’s the plan for the trees. If you have to time then cut the trees by hand and use the backhoe if you get one to dig the stumps. The tractor mounted hoe will do it but its not very fast. Ive posted this a few times but this is a stump I dug with the L, took a few hours

No experience with the B series but for my ground work the L is great. I didn’t go back through the thread to see if you needed the mid PTO, but if thats not needed or the comfort features of the B50 or LX either then I would agree with the L. You mentioned the kid too (I know its pretty unpopular here but I have a 3 & 5 year old and the only time they ain’t with me is when Im mowing with it) I haven’t been on a B but space can be cramped on the L with 1 or 2 passengers.

Please don’t get frustrated with the advice you have gotten, you lucky someone else hasn’t come along and told you how big and bad his 2 tractors are .

 

[therealhotrod]

my comment was based on you clearing 700ft of road, home site and several acre of garden, if this involves significant wood land clearing as you seem to indicate of 10” trees or bigger, this is what I meant about outsourcing that part. Yes a B or L with a backhoe will remove stumps but a large excavator will do what you need done in a day if you cut and clear the timber first. That stump work is hard on a small tractor. The other ground work, grading, moving material, skidding out trees or logs you can do with your tractor. The ongoing work you can do with your tractor. The reason I suggested the L series is weight, weight is important for stability and also traction for ground work.

good luck in selecting and using your new tractor

thank you. I guess I wasn't clear? my driveway and road are clear. I would need to widen the driveway a little, but I even have a turnaround at the end of the driveway. I have also filled the 20x30x6 ditch at the start of the now driveway. A lot of the big work has already been done in the two years I've had it. I would be clearing my building site for a modest (1000 sq ft) house and decent size garage, but there will be very little yard, that space will be occupied by garden. so I'd be clearing 2-2.5 acres total, maybe a touch more. I'd be digging for that same modest size house and decent size garage, grading the road and driveway probably once a year.

Also, most of the trees on my property are 4-8 inches in diameter, but I do have some 10"+. I was simply asking if it was even feasible to push them over, but I have a nice farm and ranch chainsaw I have no problem going to town on some trees with. The area I'm building is also fairly sparsely wooded, I made this as easy on myself as possible.

 

[therealhotrod]

In general if your tractor is standing still and you exert force on something, you won't break the tractor. Anything you have to take a run up at (swinging backhoe into it, driving FEL into it), or that you rock backwards and forwards, you have potential to be creating damage. And if you drive your machine to it's limits a lot, then you're working it harder than if you had a larger machine with larger limits. That's not just about the HP, it's about the beefiness of the machine itself - the L has I believe a stouter FEL and bigger axles and casings etc.

For mowing, back blading etc, those are all fine if done in a normal way. Digging with the backhoe pretty much the same given they're the same backhoe unit, again be careful on rocking back and forth or taking a run up.

When you get into ripping out trees or pushing them over, that's the kind of thing that breaks tractors. They're not really made for it. OK occasionally, but if that's a regular task, then get a backhoe or a bulldozer.

Most of it comes down to common sense.

I totally agree with you that any tractor you've mentioned, including a BX, will be enormously better than a shovel or a compact sedan. The question is whether an L would be better than an LX (aka large B). And I think the answer is yes in some circumstances, and the LX would be better in some other circumstances. If you want a cab, the answer is easy. No cab on an L, so get an LX. They are relatively similar machines in capability, the L is just built stronger. The L has a lot of supporters on here, as you're hearing, but each machine has its place. If you want a mid mower, a front snowblower, or a cab, then it's an LX (or a B2601). If you don't like digital dash, then it's B2601 or L. If you want more heft and more strongly built, it's an L.

Picking up a comment from earlier on digital dash - I agree with you I don't like them. But it wouldn't stop me buying the machine, it'll work fine for what it needs to, and I wouldn't go down to the B2601 just for that. I also wouldn't go to an L just for that - if it means you don't get a cab.

On the cab - strictly speaking your child isn't safe in the cab either. But I agree with you, I'd totally do that, and feel a hell of a lot safer in the cab than without.

noted. I'm considering aftermarket cab options, also, as $6k+ for a cab with no vent options seems sub optimal. Why don't people like the digital dash? I agree, anytime kids are around equipment, there's potential for injury, but on a homestead, it's not always avoidable, so I'm going to whatever I can to keep them safe.

 

[therealhotrod]

Recent YouTube on clearing 2 acres really looks fun to run .

It does look fun. However, I have more time than money, and thus am not in that big of a rush to clear the property, I have 2-3 years to get a tractor and clear the rest of the space I need.

 

[therealhotrod]

Wasn’t sure who you were referencing to, but I said the L won’t push over a 10” tree and to get a dozer if that’s the plan for the trees. If you have to time then cut the trees by hand and use the backhoe if you get one to dig the stumps. The tractor mounted hoe will do it but its not very fast. Ive posted this a few times but this is a stump I dug with the L, took a few hours

View attachment 45055

No experience with the B series but for my ground work the L is great. I didn’t go back through the thread to see if you needed the mid PTO, but if thats not needed or the comfort features of the B50 or LX either then I would agree with the L. You mentioned the kid too (I know its pretty unpopular here but I have a 3 & 5 year old and the only time they ain’t with me is when Im mowing with it) I haven’t been on a B but space can be cramped on the L with 1 or 2 passengers.

Please don’t get frustrated with the advice you have gotten, you lucky someone else hasn’t come along and told you how big and bad his 2 tractors are .

I wasn't referring to you. most of my trees are 4-8 inch popples, they fall over for literally no reason, so I'm guessing they won't be terribly difficult to dig up. I mean, kids love tractors, but besides that, if I were to wait until they weren't around, I'd never get a meaningful amount of work done, so they are a consideration in this purchase. mine are 2.5 and 9 .

I don't need to mow with the tractor, but with how the driveway is curved, would prefer to have a front mounted snowblower.

 

[PaulL]

Digital dash. Got my threads confused, there's a parallel thread with a guy looking at the same machines, he doesn't really like digital dash.

I don't like it much either, harder to read in sunlight, and they tend to get dirty or glazed over time and hard to read. To be fair I have a BX2350, the rev counter is digital and really hard to read, but that's tiny and early 2000s tech, newer ones are much better. I quite like the look of the B2601 dash and that's what I'm aiming for for my next tractor. If you had a cab I'd say much less likely to get problems.

I understand the factory cabs are a lot nicer fit and finish than after market ones. Does it really have no ventilation at all? That doesn't sound right.