Mmm or 3 pt.?

sheepfarmer

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There are a couple of things I really like about mowing with the B2650 and its mmm. Bear in mind my other choices are a lot older, Ingersoll for example, or L3560, too big for lawn.

1. Cab with a.c. so no bugs.
2. HST, no need to change rpm to go forward and backwards
3. Power steering
4. Can lift deck up off gauge wheels if you want to cut something extra long just by pulling 3 pt lift lever, eg miss the mole runs. I can also mow pastures in comfort. I have a flail mower for 3560 that got the pastures in reasonable shape 2 years ago, so it doesn't trash the blades on the little B. I have about 10 years more on you, and those creature comforts really matter. Didn't used to :( Jay is right dedicated machines is the best way to go when possible.
 

SDT

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There are a couple of things I really like about mowing with the B2650 and its mmm. Bear in mind my other choices are a lot older, Ingersoll for example, or L3560, too big for lawn.

1. Cab with a.c. so no bugs.
2. HST, no need to change rpm to go forward and backwards
3. Power steering
4. Can lift deck up off gauge wheels if you want to cut something extra long just by pulling 3 pt lift lever, eg miss the mole runs. I can also mow pastures in comfort. I have a flail mower for 3560 that got the pastures in reasonable shape 2 years ago, so it doesn't trash the blades on the little B. I have about 10 years more on you, and those creature comforts really matter. Didn't used to :( Jay is right dedicated machines is the best way to go when possible.
The ability to lift/lower a terrain following deck to temporarily adjust cutting height on the go is one of the significant advantages of such decks vis a vis suspended decks.

I also routinely lower my terrain following decks when crossing depressions, e.g., crossing grass ditches transversely, to allow the deck to follow the terrain into the depression. Once past, I return the position control lever to a pre marked spot rather than fully down.

In effect, a terrain following deck can be operated in suspended mode indefinitely whereas a suspended deck cannot be operated in terrain following mode long term.

SDT
 

KTuk4J

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B2650 Duetz Allis 6275 CAT D6 CAT 110B
Mar 2, 2020
106
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NW OR
Think IMO.....would go 3pt if any bigger than B2650.
I do love my 60 inch mmm on the B2650
 

Henro

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I started out with a RFM on my B2910. I thought the cut was great and the mower was great. BUT I do not (did not, have a few more acres now) have wide open spaces, and had things I needed to cut close to (fence at the time) or around my small pond (about 1/8 acre).

I found I could not cut close to the pond edge because the rear mower wanted to swing out beyond the pond edge. And next to the fence, if I was not careful, I got too close and into a bit of a bind trying to back up to get the mower away from the fence without hitting the fence with my front tires. Anything you want to cut around becomes an issue.

So I bought a BX with a MMM and traded the RFM in for a new brush hog, and never looked back.

RFMs are great at cutting grass, but you have to remember they stick out the back a bit, and if you need to cut AROUND things, they do not make that job very easy.
 

bird dogger

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Interesting.

I've had dozens of tractors and three point mounted implements, and I've had no such implements that I could dismount, let alone mount (aside from my 11 hole drawbars), in three minutes.

Your mileage may vary.

SDT
SDT, I grew up in the Red River Valley with small farmer parents, uncles, neighbors, etc. I started operating tractors around the age of 8 on a Farmall Cub. I can remember growing up and using Dad’s MM “U”, Allis Chalmers WD40, Massey Harris 55, The Farmall M, 800 Case, and even an Allis Chalmers G to cultivate the onion patch. Uncles and neighbors I worked for had JD Bs, As, Rs, 720s and a 4020. Another had small C0-OPs (Cockshutts), a Farmall B, among others long forgotten. Those types are considered parade tractors now but there’s still a few in use here and there just to keep them in running shape. Other than the small Farmalls none were considered or used for mowing, save a sickle mower do do ditches, barnyards and pastures. Certainly none were hydrostatic drive.

But the OP was asking about info for mowers behind his possible new LX “compact”. I didn’t say all my 3 point implements could be hooked up/unhooked in 3 minutes or less. But my Bush Hog RDTH60 can. What makes it so easy is what they call independent floating swivel pins for not only the top link but for both side links, too. With the side link pins turned to the inside it really is easy to be within an inch or two of “ideal” and the swivel function still allows the lift arms to be connected. Same for the top link. The PTO shaft slips right into place.

When one does it frequently, you get really good at knowing how to line up and stop at just the right distance. You’ve stated before that you never (almost) take your mid mount mower off during mowing season which pretty much makes it a dedicated mower. That would be considered a luxury for my situation and then I would agree between the MMM and the RFM, the MMM might edge the other out.

The OP asked for opinions from ones who had used both types on the same property and I gave him mine for my reasons. And I said either type could be better depending on multiple variables that should be considered.

You stated that you’ve never seen a 3 point implement that could be hooked up or unhooked in 3 minutes. Again the post was about compact tractors and I stated that my mower can meet those times for the reasons mentioned above. Do I have others in the same category? Yup. I can think of my TSC 3 point carry all frame, my TSC 3 point boom, my little 25 gallon 3 point sprayer (when empty), my pine needle rake….to name a few. All because they’re light in weight and very easy to manipulate into position while I’m still reasonably healthy. I think they classify as 3 point implements for my compact tractor. :)

The OP asked for our opinions and it appears he got quite the varied responses, which is great! He has to decide which works best for his situation. Very few situations are completely alike and each is normal for that particular person wherever he is located. But that’s only my take and opinion. :) It sure would've been nice to have this thread to read way back when instead of the JD dealer only telling me I needed a MMM to do finish mowing. I was a little to young to not question his opinion and ask him all the "What If's". All my other tractor experience didn't relate to the newer modern compacts.
 
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SDT

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SDT, I grew up in the Red River Valley with small farmer parents, uncles, neighbors, etc. I started operating tractors around the age of 8 on a Farmall Cub. I can remember growing up and using Dad’s MM “U”, Allis Chalmers WD40, Massey Harris 55, The Farmall M, 800 Case, and even an Allis Chalmers G to cultivate the onion patch. Uncles and neighbors I worked for had JD Bs, As, Rs, 720s and a 4020. Another had small C0-OPs (Cockshutts), a Farmall B, among others long forgotten. Those types are considered parade tractors now but there’s still a few in use here and there just to keep them in running shape. Other than the small Farmalls none were considered or used for mowing, save a sickle mower do do ditches, barnyards and pastures. Certainly none were hydrostatic drive.

But the OP was asking about info for mowers behind his possible new LX “compact”. I didn’t say all my 3 point implements could be hooked up/unhooked in 3 minutes or less. But my Bush Hog RDTH60 can. What makes it so easy is what they call independent floating swivel pins for not only the top link but for both side links, too. With the side link pins turned to the inside it really is easy to be within an inch or two of “ideal” and the swivel function still allows the lift arms to be connected. Same for the top link. The PTO shaft slips right into place.

When one does it frequently, you get really good at knowing how to line up and stop at just the right distance. You’ve stated before that you never (almost) take your mid mount mower off during mowing season which pretty much makes it a dedicated mower. That would be considered a luxury for my situation and then I would agree between the MMM and the RFM, the MMM might edge the other out.

The OP asked for opinions from ones who had used both types on the same property and I gave him mine for my reasons. And I said either type could be better depending on multiple variables that should be considered.

You stated that you’ve never seen a 3 point implement that could be hooked up or unhooked in 3 minutes. Again the post was about compact tractors and I stated that my mower can meet those times for the reasons mentioned above. Do I have others in the same category? Yup. I can think of my TSC 3 point carry all frame, my TSC 3 point boom, my little 25 gallon 3 point sprayer (when empty), my pine needle rake….to name a few. All because they’re light in weight and very easy to manipulate into position while I’m still reasonably healthy. I think they classify as 3 point implements for my compact tractor. :)

The OP asked for our opinions and it appears he got quite the varied responses, which is great! He has to decide which works best for his situation. Very few situations are completely alike and each is normal for that particular person wherever he is located. But that’s only my take and opinion. :) It sure would've been nice to have this thread to read way back when instead of the JD dealer only telling me I needed a MMM to do finish mowing. I was a little to young to not question his opinion and ask him all the "What If's". All my other tractor experience didn't relate to the newer modern compacts.
Bring everything by and we'll time hitching/unhitching. Three minutes is a very short time.

Been doing this far too long to believe such.

SDT
 

sdk1968

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in teh early going of my tractoring?

i liked the MMM...

but now? with as many different things as the tractor is used for? 3point is the only way to go.

guess this all comes down to if your tractor is just a yard toy or if you are using it for farming & rough terrain.

yard only or yard toy? MMM for sure. you hit less things.

real farming or rough stuff? 3point cause you dont want to drag it or get it hung all the time.
 

MPM1979

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B2650 w/loader, BB1260 Blade, LR1660 Rake, FDR1660 mower
Apr 9, 2020
15
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3
SE Michigan
Hi Everybody, been snooping around here since last fall. Thanks for all the info I've used to date in purchasing my tractor.
Just moved in to new house, new to tractors looking to learn. I have a B2650 and looking for opinions on mower size with 4 acres to mow. A bit rough but not to much to cut around. For those who have a B2650 what size mower do you have. Kubota offers a 60" or 72" MMM. On the three point it appears my limit according to Landpride is 48" but that seems to defeat the purpose of having a large mower to get the job done. What size\brand of 3 point mowers do you have and are you happy with the performance given the 19 PTO HP. I'm still undecided on which way to go but I need to act quickly as the grass is getting taller!
 
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Snowman7

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LX3310 535 loader, LX2980, RB2672, FDR1660
May 20, 2020
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Well, if you read all the posts before yours you should have a pretty good idea of what direction you may be leaning. I know that I am going to buy a used deck so if I decide I would like to try the alternative the sting won’t be as bad. If you go with a tph mower you can definitely go larger than 48”.
 

KTuk4J

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B2650 Duetz Allis 6275 CAT D6 CAT 110B
Mar 2, 2020
106
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NW OR
I need to make some hangers for when I don't want to pull the mmm using other 3 pt eq.

The B2650 I'm finding to be a great all around machine, no it won't keep up with my Deutz-Allis 6275 75hp 4X4 but the Deutz can't get around and run the 60"mmm either>
 

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SDT

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I need to make some hangers for when I don't want to pull the mmm using other 3 pt eq.

The B2650 I'm finding to be a great all around machine, no it won't keep up with my Deutz-Allis 6275 75hp 4X4 but the Deutz can't get around and run the 60"mmm either>
No need to make hangers.

Your MMM can be pinned in the fully up position allowing use of the three point hitch.

Instructions for doing so are in your mower (not tractor) Operator's Manual.

SDT
 

chim

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Hi Everybody, been snooping around here since last fall. Thanks for all the info I've used to date in purchasing my tractor.
Just moved in to new house, new to tractors looking to learn. I have a B2650 and looking for opinions on mower size with 4 acres to mow. A bit rough but not to much to cut around. For those who have a B2650 what size mower do you have. Kubota offers a 60" or 72" MMM. On the three point it appears my limit according to Landpride is 48" but that seems to defeat the purpose of having a large mower to get the job done. What size\brand of 3 point mowers do you have and are you happy with the performance given the 19 PTO HP. I'm still undecided on which way to go but I need to act quickly as the grass is getting taller!
Bigger is better if you want it to take less time. As I stated earlier, we went from 2-1/4 acres to 3-1/2 acres of mowing and from a 5' RFM to a 6' back in 2012 and the mowing time stayed the same. Now I'm using a 7-1/2' RFM. That width lets me tool along at a more leisurely pace and still make meaningful progress. Someone mentioned overlap being a foot. Sounds like too much but think of it this way. With a 5' deck you mow 5' wide on the first pass and only mow 4' more on each successive pass. With a 6 footer, you'd get 5' instead. It's not a race, but we all have other things on the list to do.

Mower weight makes a big difference. We had a Kubota B7500 and the Ford 1210 with 5' RFM's at the same time. The Ford handled its Caroni with ease and the Kubota (with more horses and weight) was about maxed with a LandPride. I tried the 5' LP on the Ford and the mower handled the tractor. I also used the 5' Caroni on the B7500 and the tractor acted almost like the mower wasn't even there.
 

KTuk4J

Member

Equipment
B2650 Duetz Allis 6275 CAT D6 CAT 110B
Mar 2, 2020
106
13
18
NW OR
Bigger is better if you want it to take less time. As I stated earlier, we went from 2-1/4 acres to 3-1/2 acres of mowing and from a 5' RFM to a 6' back in 2012 and the mowing time stayed the same. Now I'm using a 7-1/2' RFM. That width lets me tool along at a more leisurely pace and still make meaningful progress. Someone mentioned overlap being a foot. Sounds like too much but think of it this way. With a 5' deck you mow 5' wide on the first pass and only mow 4' more on each successive pass. With a 6 footer, you'd get 5' instead. It's not a race, but we all have other things on the list to do.

Mower weight makes a big difference. We had a Kubota B7500 and the Ford 1210 with 5' RFM's at the same time. The Ford handled its Caroni with ease and the Kubota (with more horses and weight) was about maxed with a LandPride. I tried the 5' LP on the Ford and the mower handled the tractor. I also used the 5' Caroni on the B7500 and the tractor acted almost like the mower wasn't even there.
60" is the widest I can go for the terrain/damp grass I mow of 6 acres worth.
I know dealers up here in the PNW don't even carry the 72" as they scalp and the discharge is horrible
 
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MPM1979

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B2650 w/loader, BB1260 Blade, LR1660 Rake, FDR1660 mower
Apr 9, 2020
15
4
3
SE Michigan
Well, if you read all the posts before yours you should have a pretty good idea of what direction you may be leaning. I know that I am going to buy a used deck so if I decide I would like to try the alternative the sting won’t be as bad. If you go with a tph mower you can definitely go larger than 48”.
Thanks Snowman. Your correct. I’m leaning to the tph and think I want a flail mower. Grass in better shape than a rotary cut but not good enough for a finish mower. Can’t find a decent used one around here. A new 55” will run me $1700 delivered but will take two weeks. Other people on this site have said they are running that size and brand. I was looking for some other input on size and brand specifically being used behind a B2650 as Kubota\Landpride said 48” is my limit
 

MPM1979

New member

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B2650 w/loader, BB1260 Blade, LR1660 Rake, FDR1660 mower
Apr 9, 2020
15
4
3
SE Michigan
Bigger is better if you want it to take less time. As I stated earlier, we went from 2-1/4 acres to 3-1/2 acres of mowing and from a 5' RFM to a 6' back in 2012 and the mowing time stayed the same. Now I'm using a 7-1/2' RFM. That width lets me tool along at a more leisurely pace and still make meaningful progress. Someone mentioned overlap being a foot. Sounds like too much but think of it this way. With a 5' deck you mow 5' wide on the first pass and only mow 4' more on each successive pass. With a 6 footer, you'd get 5' instead. It's not a race, but we all have other things on the list to do.

Mower weight makes a big difference. We had a Kubota B7500 and the Ford 1210 with 5' RFM's at the same time. The Ford handled its Caroni with ease and the Kubota (with more horses and weight) was about maxed with a LandPride. I tried the 5' LP on the Ford and the mower handled the tractor. I also used the 5' Caroni on the B7500 and the tractor acted almost like the mower wasn't even there.
Thanks Chim, bigger is better but I’m retiring this year so time won’t be to much of an issue. But, I’m looking to find out just how much flail mower my B2650 can handle. I might get a 60” mmm but I doubt it. Grass isn’t nice enough for a finish mower
 

Gadget

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B2650, LP FDR1672 Finish Mower, Box Scraper, LP QH05
Jun 8, 2018
14
1
3
Hodgenville, Kentucky
Hi Everybody, been snooping around here since last fall. Thanks for all the info I've used to date in purchasing my tractor.
Just moved in to new house, new to tractors looking to learn. I have a B2650 and looking for opinions on mower size with 4 acres to mow. A bit rough but not to much to cut around. For those who have a B2650 what size mower do you have. Kubota offers a 60" or 72" MMM. On the three point it appears my limit according to Landpride is 48" but that seems to defeat the purpose of having a large mower to get the job done. What size\brand of 3 point mowers do you have and are you happy with the performance given the 19 PTO HP. I'm still undecided on which way to go but I need to act quickly as the grass is getting taller!
I’m mowing a 7 acre fescue field about every 7 days with a 3 point mounted 72 inch grooming mower (Landpride FDR1672) behind m B2650. Absolutely love the cut and no issues whatsoever with my tractor pulling that mower. I mowed the same field for years with a diesel powered zero turn (Grasshopper 725D) and much prefer the softer ride of the B2650 with air filled turf tires.
 

bird dogger

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Kubota B2650 and lots of other equipment
Feb 24, 2019
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This afternoon was spent on some outdoor work including mowing, chipper/shredder use for mulch, and using the pine needle rake to fluff up some drown-out grass patches for over seeding. Before beginning, I started to think about my earlier claim in this thread that it takes but about 3 minutes to hook up my Bush Hog RFM. Had I been dreaming or was I in La La land with those claims on my 3 point implements for the B2650? :) Since my I-phone has the stop watch, what better way to find out but to time the hookup. I wasn’t going to practice and didn’t. I would start timing right when I had backed up to the mower and stood up from the tractor seat and stop timing when the mower was completely hooked up.

Well, I was off by over 30%. But I was a little nervous and even dropped a lynch pin for one lift arm. With everything hooked up (PTO, top link, side links, sway pins and safety chain) when I hit the stop button on my phone it registered 1 minute 58 seconds. I thought it was going to be under 3 minutes but was surprised it was just shy of 2 minutes. So, while mowing, I thought afterwards I’ll take some pics of my hookup for the skeptics along with some ideas for anyone else to ponder.

First of all, I don’t have a cab on the tractor (I take my homebuilt cab off for the summer). Being reasonably healthy I can look over my shoulder and down while backing up to the mower and stop pretty darn close to the ideal spot for ease of hookup. With the shorter spread of the lift arms on the B2650 it really makes for easier hookup to reverse the lift pins to the inside on the mower itself. It also makes it easy to judge the line up and stopping point when backing up to it. This mower's side links float for a short distance (+/- 2 inches) up and down so all one has to do is pull the pins on the sway bars and move the lift arms outward to match them up with the pins. Top link hookup also swivels. And lastly, on my B2650, putting the pto selector lever in the MID PTO ONLY position allows the tractor pto stub to rotate for 90 degrees stop to stop, making it easy to match the pto shaft to the tractor for hookup.

Here’s some pics that show those features. (Sharper eyes might notice that I don’t have the pins in the anti-sway bars. I had disconnected the mower and then remembered to go get my camera for the pics and I forgot to put them back in. But they were installed for the one “timed trial” run for hook up.:))
Bush Hog RDTH60.jpg

RDTH60 Overhead View.jpg

RDTH60 Top Swivel Link.jpg

RDTH60 Installed.jpg
So, for a 60 inch RFM on a B2650 compact tractor it really can be that easy and quick to hook up. Removing it was even much faster. If anyone is interested in seeing my mods and quick stands for my pine needle rake, I’d be happy to take some pics and post them too. Very easy on/off also, as it’s standing at the ready to be hooked up and left standing when unhooked. And for the still skeptical I’d be happy to have my wife take a video of the process on my phone and could send it to you. Of course you’d have to PM me with your contact info. But seriously, I’d be happy to do that. It really can be that easy and shows that if you need to be swapping out implements to use where you can’t have a MMM hanging underneath your tractor you might like the RFM. Either type mower has their advantages and disadvantages and should be considered for your own circumstances.

And best of all, I can rest easy tonight knowing I hadn't unintentionally embellished my 3 minute claim for hooking up my Bush Hog RDTH60 RFM. :D
 
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Gadget

New member

Equipment
B2650, LP FDR1672 Finish Mower, Box Scraper, LP QH05
Jun 8, 2018
14
1
3
Hodgenville, Kentucky
This afternoon was spent on some outdoor work including mowing, chipper/shredder use for mulch, and using the pine needle rake to fluff up some drown-out grass patches for over seeding. Before beginning, I started to think about my earlier claim in this thread that it takes but about 3 minutes to hook up my Bush Hog RFM. Had I been dreaming or was I in La La land with those claims on my 3 point implements for the B2650? :) Since my I-phone has the stop watch, what better way to find out but to time the hookup. I wasn’t going to practice and didn’t. I would start timing right when I had backed up to the mower and stood up from the tractor seat and stop timing when the mower was completely hooked up.

Well, I was off by over 30%. But I was a little nervous and even dropped a lynch pin for one lift arm. With everything hooked up (PTO, top link, side links, sway pins and safety chain) when I hit the stop button on my phone it registered 1 minute 58 seconds. I thought it was going to be under 3 minutes but was surprised it was just shy of 2 minutes. So, while mowing, I thought afterwards I’ll take some pics of my hookup for the skeptics along with some ideas for anyone else to ponder.

First of all, I don’t have a cab on the tractor (I take my homebuilt cab off for the summer). Being reasonably healthy I can look over my shoulder and down while backing up to the mower and stop pretty darn close to the ideal spot for ease of hookup. With the shorter spread of the lift arms on the B2650 it really makes for easier hookup to reverse the lift pins to the inside on the mower itself. It also makes it easy to judge the line up and stopping point when backing up to it. This mower's side links float for a short distance (+/- 2 inches) up and down so all one has to do is pull the pins on the sway bars and move the lift arms outward to match them up with the pins. Top link hookup also swivels. And lastly, on my B2650, putting the pto selector lever in the MID PTO ONLY position allows the tractor pto stub to rotate for 90 degrees stop to stop, making it easy to match the pto shaft to the tractor for hookup.

Here’s some pics that show those features. (Sharper eyes might notice that I don’t have the pins in the anti-sway bars. I had disconnected the mower and then remembered to go get my camera for the pics and I forgot to put them back in. But they were installed for the one “timed trial” run for hook up.:))
View attachment 49704

View attachment 49705

View attachment 49706

View attachment 49707
So, for a 60 inch RFM on a B2650 compact tractor it really can be that easy and quick to hook up. Removing it was even much faster. If anyone is interested in seeing my mods and quick stands for my pine needle rake, I’d be happy to take some pics and post them too. Very easy on/off also, as it’s standing at the ready to be hooked up and left standing when unhooked. And for the still skeptical I’d be happy to have my wife take a video of the process on my phone and could send it to you. Of course you’d have to PM me with your contact info. But seriously, I’d be happy to do that. It really can be that easy and shows that if you need to be swapping out implements to use where you can’t have a MMM hanging underneath your tractor you might like the RFM. Either type mower has their advantages and disadvantages and should be considered for your own circumstances.

And best of all, I can rest easy tonight knowing I hadn't unintentionally embellished my 3 minute claim for hooking up my Bush Hog RDTH60 RFM. :D
Ditto here. I have a Landpride QH05 quick hitch and my Landpride RFM is quick hitch compatible. Most days I can hook up and remove in less than 3 minutes.
 

KTuk4J

Member

Equipment
B2650 Duetz Allis 6275 CAT D6 CAT 110B
Mar 2, 2020
106
13
18
NW OR
No need to make hangers.

Your MMM can be pinned in the fully up position allowing use of the three point hitch.

Instructions for doing so are in your mower (not tractor) Operator's Manual.

SDT
I'm not finding that in the manual? Only the lifting arm once the deck is removed.
Please advise as I would love to know other than making my own.
 

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SDT

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multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,250
1,041
113
SE, IN
This afternoon was spent on some outdoor work including mowing, chipper/shredder use for mulch, and using the pine needle rake to fluff up some drown-out grass patches for over seeding. Before beginning, I started to think about my earlier claim in this thread that it takes but about 3 minutes to hook up my Bush Hog RFM. Had I been dreaming or was I in La La land with those claims on my 3 point implements for the B2650? :) Since my I-phone has the stop watch, what better way to find out but to time the hookup. I wasn***8217;t going to practice and didn***8217;t. I would start timing right when I had backed up to the mower and stood up from the tractor seat and stop timing when the mower was completely hooked up.

Well, I was off by over 30%. But I was a little nervous and even dropped a lynch pin for one lift arm. With everything hooked up (PTO, top link, side links, sway pins and safety chain) when I hit the stop button on my phone it registered 1 minute 58 seconds. I thought it was going to be under 3 minutes but was surprised it was just shy of 2 minutes. So, while mowing, I thought afterwards I***8217;ll take some pics of my hookup for the skeptics along with some ideas for anyone else to ponder.

First of all, I don***8217;t have a cab on the tractor (I take my homebuilt cab off for the summer). Being reasonably healthy I can look over my shoulder and down while backing up to the mower and stop pretty darn close to the ideal spot for ease of hookup. With the shorter spread of the lift arms on the B2650 it really makes for easier hookup to reverse the lift pins to the inside on the mower itself. It also makes it easy to judge the line up and stopping point when backing up to it. This mower's side links float for a short distance (+/- 2 inches) up and down so all one has to do is pull the pins on the sway bars and move the lift arms outward to match them up with the pins. Top link hookup also swivels. And lastly, on my B2650, putting the pto selector lever in the MID PTO ONLY position allows the tractor pto stub to rotate for 90 degrees stop to stop, making it easy to match the pto shaft to the tractor for hookup.

Here***8217;s some pics that show those features. (Sharper eyes might notice that I don***8217;t have the pins in the anti-sway bars. I had disconnected the mower and then remembered to go get my camera for the pics and I forgot to put them back in. But they were installed for the one ***8220;timed trial***8221; run for hook up.:))
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So, for a 60 inch RFM on a B2650 compact tractor it really can be that easy and quick to hook up. Removing it was even much faster. If anyone is interested in seeing my mods and quick stands for my pine needle rake, I***8217;d be happy to take some pics and post them too. Very easy on/off also, as it***8217;s standing at the ready to be hooked up and left standing when unhooked. And for the still skeptical I***8217;d be happy to have my wife take a video of the process on my phone and could send it to you. Of course you***8217;d have to PM me with your contact info. But seriously, I***8217;d be happy to do that. It really can be that easy and shows that if you need to be swapping out implements to use where you can***8217;t have a MMM hanging underneath your tractor you might like the RFM. Either type mower has their advantages and disadvantages and should be considered for your own circumstances.

And best of all, I can rest easy tonight knowing I hadn't unintentionally embellished my 3 minute claim for hooking up my Bush Hog RDTH60 RFM. :D
Clearly, both you and Gadget, below, can mount/dismount three point mounted equipment much, much faster than I will ever do so with any of my three point mounted equipment (excepting lift arm mounted drawbar and, probably, three point mounted receiver) on any of my tractors, Kubota or otherwise.

Rest easy.

SDT
 
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