I'm looking to buy a 2-bottom plow for my L3901. The owner doesn't know much about but says it was used on a John Deere tractor. Not sure if it's a 12". 14" or 16". The attached picture is all I got to go off of. So, anyone got any input as to whether this plow will work? Thanks.
2-Bottom Plow For a Kubota L3901
- Thread starter TRobinette
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BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
There are no coulters on this plow so this will cause some problems if you are plowing sod. Depending on the type of tires you have it will probable work. At first with the rust it might be a little ruff to pull.
We had a Cockshutt 30 approximately 30 hp but weigh more then a L3901 and it would pull a 3 bottom plow with no problem.
We had a Cockshutt 30 approximately 30 hp but weigh more then a L3901 and it would pull a 3 bottom plow with no problem.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If the '39' in L3901 means 39HP, then it'll easily pull a 2 furrow plow. I pull a 3 furrow one with my D-14( +-35HP, 2WD).
OK, Tractor data says 35ish HP, and similar weight to my '57 D-14 so I don't see why your l3901 won't pull a 2F plow providing it's setup properly and shiny ! Be sure to clean the moldbolds real good, I use 4.5" anglegrinder and 40G sanding pad, that plow will need 1-2 hrs to clean up proper THEN adjust it THEN go turn dirt !
OK, Tractor data says 35ish HP, and similar weight to my '57 D-14 so I don't see why your l3901 won't pull a 2F plow providing it's setup properly and shiny ! Be sure to clean the moldbolds real good, I use 4.5" anglegrinder and 40G sanding pad, that plow will need 1-2 hrs to clean up proper THEN adjust it THEN go turn dirt !
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Plows are measured from one side of one of the beams to the same side of the adjacent beam.
That said, unless you have very good ground, the pictured plow, unless a 2X12," which is unlikely, is too much for a 3901, especially a hydrostat. It's simply not heavy enough, has no draft control, and a hydrostat will not put enough HP to the drawbar.
Yes, you may pull it in good ground if not too deep, your tractor is well weighted, and has AG tires, but you will not pull it sufficiently fast to roll the ground properly, especially without coulters and a rolling landside.
CUTS, especially hydrostats, are not made for plowing.
SDT
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I agree with SDT and with no coulters, that plow will walk the rear of your tractor all over the place. Think I'd look for a complete single bottom 12".
SDT-
You always give very sound advise and I’m not arguing, but my L is the previous series to the OP and the only problem I ran into pulling a 2x14 plow was a very large root that I didn’t see and got hung up. I have very hard packed clay, no additional weight (even pull it without the FEL on), and R4 tires. It obviously requires 4 wd, but I haven’t had an issue with the turnover. I agree that the hst wouldn’t be ideal, mine is gear drive.
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You always give very sound advise and I’m not arguing, but my L is the previous series to the OP and the only problem I ran into pulling a 2x14 plow was a very large root that I didn’t see and got hung up. I have very hard packed clay, no additional weight (even pull it without the FEL on), and R4 tires. It obviously requires 4 wd, but I haven’t had an issue with the turnover. I agree that the hst wouldn’t be ideal, mine is gear drive.
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I have another plow I plan to look at that has coulters for $150. Having HST and R4's, do you think it will pull this plow ok? Thanks to all for the responses . . . helpful.
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Well, for $150 if it didn't cut the ground like you want, you can unbolt one beam and have a 1 bottom plow. If you don't like the 1 bottom you can sell it for about $200. It's more popular for small tractors then the 2 bottom so brings a bit more money.
That's a Ferguson plow with coulters and jointers. It also has a rolling landslide. Both make significant differences.SDT-
You always give very sound advise and I’m not arguing, but my L is the previous series to the OP and the only problem I ran into pulling a 2x14 plow was a very large root that I didn’t see and got hung up. I have very hard packed clay, no additional weight (even pull it without the FEL on), and R4 tires. It obviously requires 4 wd, but I haven’t had an issue with the turnover. I agree that the hst wouldn’t be ideal, mine is gear drive.
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I have a 2X12" Dearborn plow and 2, 2X14" Dearborn plows, all with coulters, jointers, rolling landslides and nearly new shares and moldboards.
My recently sold VERY good 55 Ford 860 with about 45 PTO HP, properly working draft control, great AG tires, and over 1,300 Lbs. of cast iron weights would struggle with either of the 2X14 plows in my clay sod. So would my L6060 with R-4s and optional draft control. FWA helps little when plowing due to weight transfer, especially with draft control.
SDT
That one also appears to be a Ferguson.
With coulters and rolling landside, it will pull easier than the JD and not pull your tractor to the side much.
R-4s are designed to slip and do not bite the ground much and FWA helps little due to weight transfer.
Still depends upon your ground.
SDT
A good 9/2/8N with liquid ballast and working draft control will pull a 2X14" plow in good ground but will not touch one in my ground.
That said, the N series Fords were made for plowing and CUTs, especially hydrostats, are not.
SDT
That tractor (the 2n) and plow were used in central IL. My great grandpa bought it new in 1942, I was 3 years old when my dad got it from the family farm, it is currently sitting in his garage with a fresh built engine and needing reassembled. Life took me away from that project amongst other things. From what I have been told is that tractor was originally sold with steel wheels (which we have for it) due to all the rubber going towards the war effort at the time?
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
OP, don’t let the nay sayers make you think that your tractor won’t pull a plow. Find a plow with coulters and an adjustment lever to level it from side to side when the tractor wheel is in the furrow. Also make sure it is leveled front to back. Once the moldboards are shined up, it will pull easier and plow better. Most problems with plows are from operators that don’t know what they are doing, even some of the so called experts. They run the plow too deep and not adjusted level. Keep your tractor in low range and you will be fine.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: 2N... yes steel wheeled, rubber to the War. Also, tubing for wishbone arms or whatever you call them, 9Ns had soid cast iron arms, 2Ns cast went to war effort.
As for plowing, if virgin soil, I like to plow N-S on day 1, E-W on day 2 and nothing says you can't plow 2-3 times. Now if it's 100 acres, OK, that'll take more than a morning....
As for plowing, if virgin soil, I like to plow N-S on day 1, E-W on day 2 and nothing says you can't plow 2-3 times. Now if it's 100 acres, OK, that'll take more than a morning....
Too inefficient.
Power is turned to heat rather than drawbar HP.
Note: I DID NOT say that one could not plow with a hydrostat, only that gear type transmissions are much better suited.
SDT