BX : New or Used ?
- Thread starter miketrock
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I have no idea what's really different between a 2670 vs 2680 ,but I KNOW 6K is a lot of coins ! 100hrs isn't much over 3 years either.
Someone here must know what's different but I suspect you'll be saving 6K on your 'new' ride.
Someone here must know what's different but I suspect you'll be saving 6K on your 'new' ride.
opinions? sure to get wide range.
For me I would buy new. After neg. price diff. may end up not that much. New gets you started building relationship with a dealer as well for warranty etc..
Since you didn't mention if used was from a dealer or private and if through dealer they are certifying all is well and no warranty exclusions will apply.... for me most importantly on used (especially on a garden tractor which can often be first toe in the tractor pond for someone) who knows what type of amateur wrenching or problems may exist. Dealer cost of fixing someone else's problems can be big. I read one guy damaged pistons installing $70 block heater and had to do partial engine rebuild, others modified ROP's which dealers tend not to want to touch without replacing, seen first hand some really bad wiring for lights drawing loads well above elec. capacity of the machine causing electrical gremlins, see alot of really bad scabbed together hydraulic follies like 3rd functions, etc....
So in the end your decision. Me since price diff. will likely be not as great as you think I would be very careful on why a 100 hr tractor is up for sale. Getting a lemon w/o support because self caused bad repairs / poorly put on add-ons / miss use by previous owner or bad backyard mechanics leading to no warranty issues can get expensive fast.
Other hand... after you inspect used you may find it is pristine, full warranty for everything, half price, sold by a old farmer with 80 years operating experience and training who stored it in his kitchen so no rust and serviced every 10 hours by a dealer.....etc..... Then go for it
For me I would buy new. After neg. price diff. may end up not that much. New gets you started building relationship with a dealer as well for warranty etc..
Since you didn't mention if used was from a dealer or private and if through dealer they are certifying all is well and no warranty exclusions will apply.... for me most importantly on used (especially on a garden tractor which can often be first toe in the tractor pond for someone) who knows what type of amateur wrenching or problems may exist. Dealer cost of fixing someone else's problems can be big. I read one guy damaged pistons installing $70 block heater and had to do partial engine rebuild, others modified ROP's which dealers tend not to want to touch without replacing, seen first hand some really bad wiring for lights drawing loads well above elec. capacity of the machine causing electrical gremlins, see alot of really bad scabbed together hydraulic follies like 3rd functions, etc....
So in the end your decision. Me since price diff. will likely be not as great as you think I would be very careful on why a 100 hr tractor is up for sale. Getting a lemon w/o support because self caused bad repairs / poorly put on add-ons / miss use by previous owner or bad backyard mechanics leading to no warranty issues can get expensive fast.
Other hand... after you inspect used you may find it is pristine, full warranty for everything, half price, sold by a old farmer with 80 years operating experience and training who stored it in his kitchen so no rust and serviced every 10 hours by a dealer.....etc..... Then go for it
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Get your final price on both, so you know exactly what the $ difference will be.
Then, assuming the used rig is not defective in any way, it becomes a matter of what having the newest model tractor & a longer warranty is worth, as that essentially would be the only difference.
Also worth noting, there were some substantial changes made from the 70 series BX to the 80 series.
How about the loader you doing skid steer style attach on both ?
Suspect new will be around $3500.00 more if both used and new are from dealer.
Used if private saves on sales tax.
Suspect new will be around $3500.00 more if both used and new are from dealer.
Used if private saves on sales tax.
The 80 series had changes mainly to the FEL and the backhoe, and a handful of comfort changes to the machine itself.
Biggest change is the single lever manifold on the FEL, and ability to remove the FEL without leaving the seat. This feature has mixed reviews, some people love it some dislike it, and there are some reports of leaking loader valves.
I would say that on the second hand market an 80 would always sell for more than a 70.
If you look at your cost of ownership, sounds to me like you'd pay $260 x 12 = $3,120 more for the 80 series. It has a warranty, it's a newer model, it has less risk of some hidden damage or difficulty. It comes with interest free financing, so although the headline difference is $6K, only half that is landing on you. And I'd guess after discounts and other bits and bobs, that gap may be smaller still.
If you were paying cash I'd say $6K is a lot of price difference. But at around $3K, I'd say you'll make that back on resale, in slightly better features, in getting the tractor exactly as you want it (options etc), and in lower risk.
One thing to watch out for with a brand new tractor is that the first service is 50 hours, and isn't cheap. If you can get that included that helps the financials quite a bit.
Biggest change is the single lever manifold on the FEL, and ability to remove the FEL without leaving the seat. This feature has mixed reviews, some people love it some dislike it, and there are some reports of leaking loader valves.
I would say that on the second hand market an 80 would always sell for more than a 70.
If you look at your cost of ownership, sounds to me like you'd pay $260 x 12 = $3,120 more for the 80 series. It has a warranty, it's a newer model, it has less risk of some hidden damage or difficulty. It comes with interest free financing, so although the headline difference is $6K, only half that is landing on you. And I'd guess after discounts and other bits and bobs, that gap may be smaller still.
If you were paying cash I'd say $6K is a lot of price difference. But at around $3K, I'd say you'll make that back on resale, in slightly better features, in getting the tractor exactly as you want it (options etc), and in lower risk.
One thing to watch out for with a brand new tractor is that the first service is 50 hours, and isn't cheap. If you can get that included that helps the financials quite a bit.
12 x 260 is the difference. 4year loan vs 5year loan @ O.0 interest. Overall cost of ownership. If I was paying cash and the used was pristine that is the Best Buy $6000 still in my bank account. If financing I would buy new for only 3160 more .
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GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
we need to KNOW who the finance company is PDQ ! I'd love to make 3K on a 6K loan !!
something's not right....
something's not right....
My point is the loan payments are said to be $260 per month for 5 years on the new tractor, and $260 per month for 4 years for the used tractor. For that to be true, the new tractor the OP would pay about $3K less by financing than paying the $18,823 cash?
5 years x 12 months x $260 = $15,600 paid for the $18,823 tractor
4 years x 12 months x $260 = $12,480 paid for the $12,500 tractor
5 years x 12 months x $260 = $15,600 paid for the $18,823 tractor
4 years x 12 months x $260 = $12,480 paid for the $12,500 tractor
given the scenario and numbers you laid out, I would go with the NEW tractor. You're not going to get a consensus on this kind of question though because it hinges entirely on personal opinion, feelings, and personality tendencies.
$260/month X 5 years also is not 18,823 for the new tractor. comes out more around 15,000'ish. That would cut the gap between new and used down a lot. With a couple thousand gap I would 100% go brand new over used.
$260/month X 5 years also is not 18,823 for the new tractor. comes out more around 15,000'ish. That would cut the gap between new and used down a lot. With a couple thousand gap I would 100% go brand new over used.
This is why the 0% financing on new tractors pushes down the price of second hand machines.
The second hand machine will be financed at finance company rates - 4% or whatever.
The new machine will be financed at 0% Kubota finance, presumably Kubota borrow that money in Japan where they have negative interest rates.
Because the finance deals are so much better on new tractors, it's hard to move a second hand machine unless it's a great price or your buyer has cash. In the US seems like not so many buyers have cash (in my part of the world it's quite rare to finance a machine like that - we'd usually not buy it until we had the money to buy it).
$12K x 4% x 4 years = $2,000, and there's some compounding of interest in there too.
Financing through Kubota on a used tractor is going to require 10% down. Both require insurance that amounts to about $19 a month
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I can’t tell you what to do, but I’ll tell you what I did. My local bank didn’t want to finance a used tractor. I contacted Barlow’s in Kentucky, and got a price on the machine I wanted with every possible attachment I might need. It was all rolled into Kubota Finance. I ordered the machine, with the attachments, and the insurance, at zero percent. I didn’t pay for delivery or sales tax. I waited six weeks until they were able to get everything together and deliver it, it was winter and we had a few bad storms.
Every month for sixty months my wife whined about paying that four hundred bucks to Kubota. Now, six years later, my machine has a tad over two hundred hours on it. I put every one of them on it. I don’t use it much in winter, as I have an old Ford to plow with. I have every attachment I want or need. I have completed a lot of work around here very efficiently because I have the right tools. It has never been in the shop, and all the service has been done right, because I did it all. All it costs me now is fuel and filters and fluids. It sits in the barn ready to work on my schedule. Now that I am retired I expect hours will go up more!
I hope this helps,
Jerry.
Every month for sixty months my wife whined about paying that four hundred bucks to Kubota. Now, six years later, my machine has a tad over two hundred hours on it. I put every one of them on it. I don’t use it much in winter, as I have an old Ford to plow with. I have every attachment I want or need. I have completed a lot of work around here very efficiently because I have the right tools. It has never been in the shop, and all the service has been done right, because I did it all. All it costs me now is fuel and filters and fluids. It sits in the barn ready to work on my schedule. Now that I am retired I expect hours will go up more!
I hope this helps,
Jerry.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
^^^ This is pretty much the process I went through. The bank's terms for an equipment loan were way too pricey. Kubota 0% over 72 months all in - implements, insurance and delivery included. 6 year drive train warranty. Just need to pick up oils and filters, grease, supplies from the dealer once in a while. Oh yeah, and shear pins for the snow blower.
Enjoy doing the maintenance myself.
280 hours over 2 1/2 years. It's a powerful and capable tool set. And they hold their value.