Anyone know what led bulbs can replace the halogen bulbs in the top work lights? Replaced my headlights already and would like the work lights to be led.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
B2650 hsdc work light LED replacement bulbs?
- Thread starter hawkin
- Start date
I would consider adding more lights by mounting new LED lighting units beside the existing work lights but pointed more to the side. That way you can experiment if the LED's will meet your needs by just removing the bulbs from the existing before you make the final decisions.
I find, working at night, just seeing forward does not give me as much awareness of my surroundings as I would like.
Dave
I find, working at night, just seeing forward does not give me as much awareness of my surroundings as I would like.
Dave
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Sorry, don't know what bulbs they are using in those, you'll have to pull one and see what they are using. 
On my M9, they were halogen sealed beams, I say were. I replaced them with LED's up front on top and LED 'side shooters' in the back. The side shooters are nice because they combine the straight light throw and light up the sides as well. Superbright LED has them.Sorry, don't know what bulbs they are using in those, you'll have to pull one and see what they are using.
I'd sure like to replace the weak lights that the M9's come with factory in the front below the grill. Can see farther with a candle.
The Front & Rear work lights on my B3000 were OEM Halogen, but they were sealed.
I just finished installing some Rigid Industries LED lights, but am having a problem with too much Amperage draw.
I am working to solve that problem now.
Below is a link to the approach I took. As Dave pointed out, there's a need for some light to the sides.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41723&highlight=lighting+revisited
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41723&highlight=lighting+revisited
I just pulled my halogen work lights off and put on some auxbeam cube leds that I had on my 2601.. With my cabbed 2650 I keep blowing a fuse even when I only have one front work light hooked up. Looks like I may have to rewire off the battery/inline fuse/switch.
If you want to use the factory switch to power them then use a relay. Wire the coil side of the relay into the factory switch circuit, then a fused wired from the battery or at the starter cable (not sure which is easier to get to on your model) to the load side of the relay, then to your lights.
These harnesses off amazon make it pretty easy, may have to extend some of the wires though.
Nilight LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 12V On Off Switch Power Relay Blade Fuse for Off Road Lights LED Work Light,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZPX32N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MqIHDbBSBQ51B
The fuse for my worklights on my B3000 was a 20 amp. I was drawing 24-25 amps, which I didn't realize at first.
I replaced he rear LED worklights with two smaller LED's which drew much less amperage.
I now draw a total of 19 amp with all 4 worklights on, and the fuse has held with no problem.
It's still plenty of light in the rear, and a WHOLE LOT more light than the old oem halogen lights.
I should be all set to work in the dark blowing snow, or cutting grass.
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Orange1forme
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Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
I replaced the front lights with these and then, using the already provided wiring and adding a factory switch, added another pair for the rear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07288LNKV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No issues last winter blowing any fuses.
I am wanting to outfit my snowblower with lights, especially the chute direction, just to be sure where I'm putting that snow.
I replaced all other bulbs with LEDs- headlights, blinkers, dome lamp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07288LNKV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No issues last winter blowing any fuses.
I am wanting to outfit my snowblower with lights, especially the chute direction, just to be sure where I'm putting that snow.
I replaced all other bulbs with LEDs- headlights, blinkers, dome lamp.
If you read the reviews on these they only draw about 1.3 to 1.8 amps, so it's not surprising you didn't have a fuse problem.
I had a similar experience (lower than advertised current draw) with the four different types of LEDs I've used. The advertise rating is significantly less than advertised. Generally the light output is fantastic for such little current draw which is great, but too many people are unnecessarily over wiring for much higher current.
Can you post pictures of the lights pattern at night?
So I found out what my problem was. Bad LED cube. The two in the rear draw 1.6A on the meter. One front draws .8A. Plugged in the second and meter jumped to 24 and 32A before the fuse popped. At $20 shipped for two on Amazon pretty cheap to replace.
How're working those lights for you? I'm thinking of buying them myself, but I'm not sure there are worth it. I'm short on money, but I want to make a change. Some of my friends suggested me trying LEDs because they're more on my level. But I must search a lot, before even thinking of buying something. The company that my friends proposed is the best-LED lighting manufacturer in the US. That's how they described it to me Searching through the website, I did found some nice-looking lights that are not expensive. I think that the LED technology that they represent is the best nowadays. You can visit their website for more info.
Searching through the website, I did found some nice-looking lights that are not expensive. I think that the LED technology that they represent is the best nowadays. You can visit their website for more info.
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