Tractor shopping in Georgia

[MOOTS]

Afternoon gentlemen, I am in the market for a tractor and *think* I have it figured out, but thought I’d ask here.

Live on 2 acres now, about an acre of yard and the rest wooded. Would possibly build on inlaws land later. That would be about 7 acres heavily wooded and hills.

Looking to mainly tackle the under brush and fix the yard/woods up some.

Thinking of the L3301 with FEL. Third function. Bush hog and box scrape at first, and would probably add a grapple later.

Would not be mowing with tractor.

I’ve grown up on grandpa’s, now dads ‘58 Ford 601 workmaster,but wanting something a bit more modern/user friendly. The old ford is on its last leg.

Lead the way men.

 

[Missouribound]

I can't see anything wrong with your choices.
Are you considering a backhoe?
If you are planning on building in the future it would become a very valuable asset. Good luck.

 

[MOOTS]

I can't see anything wrong with your choices.

Are you considering a backhoe?

If you are planning on building in the future it would become a very valuable asset. Good luck.

No on the backhoe. I have a mini excavator I can borrow from work if that need ever arises.

 

[PaulL]

My gut says bigger than you need for 2 acres, or even 7 acres if heavily wooded. Nothing wrong with that, but if you're financially constrained or worried about getting around in the woods, I'd say you could go smaller. I'm not great at US geography, but I think Georgia generally means no snow, so no need for a cab or mid-PTO, so an L is a good choice in that sense, and probably not a lot more money than a B.

 

[MOOTS]

My gut says bigger than you need for 2 acres, or even 7 acres if heavily wooded. Nothing wrong with that, but if you're financially constrained or worried about getting around in the woods, I'd say you could go smaller. I'm not great at US geography, but I think Georgia generally means no snow, so no need for a cab or mid-PTO, so an L is a good choice in that sense, and probably not a lot more money than a B.

I was thinking the same. We may never move to that 7 acres. It is just across the street a bit. But would like to have enough for the upkeep, as is does have a largish field to mow. My FIL takes care of it now, with his older 2wd Ford diesel with FEL.

 

[MOOTS]

Can someone explain the different transmissions on the L series? I’m so confused.

I’m use to a gear shifter, but don’t think that would be ideal for loader work.

I’ve ran a shuttle shift before, that may be better.

We have hydro at work on an L5030,it’s nice. But if I get the L3301, I won’t have much hp to spare to the drivetrain.

The kubota site is confusing when it’s listing what transmission come in what tractor.

 

[Fordtech86]

The 3301 comes with either a hydro or a non synchronized gear transmission. I have the gear shift and do a lot of loader work, obviously be easier with the hydro but not bad after getting used to it.

 

[MOOTS]

The war department put a stop on a 20k new tractor. Been looking at used, what year do I need to not have emissions?

Also, went to my local dealer, the L is bigger than I thought. I liked the size of the B series better. Any years to stay away from? Are all the rearend cases aluminum?

 

[Muzzy]

Avoid the B3350, many engine issues & tissues

 

[SidecarFlip]

All mine had cast steel rear cases, Did not know Kubota had any aluminum cased tractors.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The war department put a stop on a 20k new tractor. Been looking at used, what year do I need to not have emissions?

Also, went to my local dealer, the L is bigger than I thought. I liked the size of the B series better. Any years to stay away from? Are all the rearend cases aluminum?

All B's have aluminum cases, they have done that for many a year, it's a moot point, as it's not an issue or a weak point.

Also a HST is not an issue with HP loss either.

You're probably not going to have enough funds for a B with emissions, but there is only one anyways B3350 and that's a bad model, so don't buy that one.
There is no really bad model of kubota (besides B3350), so to say get this year or this model, is kind of hard to do.

 

[PaulL]

To start the ball rolling, the B2650 is the larger of the two B frame sizes, and has no emissions (and isn't bad like the B3350 is). It's a well liked machine, and has been around since 2013: http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/007/7/2/7723-kubota-b2650.html

The model before that in the same size was the B2630, which takes you back to 2006, and was also a good machine. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/8/6/1862-kubota-b2630.html, although they don't seem to be common in the US. The B3030 was a good machine, and was the 30hp version of the same, but with no emissions. Quite popular and there are a few around, but they hold their value very very well.

You can go a bit smaller, you can go a bit older. What sort of budget did you get approved? What implements and attachments do you need to fit within that budget - I'm guessing at minimum a loader, probably a bush hog, maybe a land plane or box blade? Quick attach bucket is nice, to allow quick attach forks, I don't have one and have done fine with 3ph forks that didn't cost much. They also have the benefit of letting me put a pallet on the back to cart stuff around (chainsaws, tools, other junk that I'm working with).

You could also try explaining to the financial controller that tractors hold their value really really well, so you'd have to get quite an old one to get much discount. And 0% financing is excellent, if you keep it for 3-5 years you'll probably only lose a few thousand dollars on it. You might be able to talk yourself back into a new one once you show how expensive second hand ones are, and of course no financing or warranty on second hand.

 

[MOOTS]

I’d like to stay under 15k. Financial dept. would like under 12k.

I found a ‘11 2620 on tractorhouse I’m waiting to hear back on. Also found a ‘11 3300, are they “bad” like the 3350’s?

FEL and 4wd is a must. I’ll add a brush cutter and box blade later.

Do all of the B tractors have the 1/4” 3 point, except the ‘19 which has position control?

The prices seem to be all over the place too. Both of the ‘11’s I found are 12k and 200+ miles away.

 

[PaulL]

It was the emissions controls that made the 3350 bad, I believe the 3300 had no emissions, therefore would be an excellent tractor (lots of power). Depending on what you need it for, that power may not be necessary - power really only matters for PTO applications like bush hogging, or driving a rototiller. I doubt a B can put all that power to the ground for ground engaging tasks, and I wonder whether it can really lift a big enough bush hog to need all that power.

The prices are driven by supply and demand, and of course advertised price is quite different from what they actually sell for often, especially at dealers. They're reasonably common, and if you have time to go pick one up, then anything between 100 and 300 miles is really still a full day round trip - just a longer or a shorter day. (Assuming here you have a truck and have or can rent a big enough trailer). In other words, you can afford to wait for the right one, you don't have to jump on the first one.

 

[MOOTS]

Good to know. Thank you @paulL.
Truck and trailer is no problem. I have an 18ft solid floor car hauler I drug my Jeep around on.

 

[MOOTS]

Still shopping around. Financial dept said if I sell my Polaris Ranger we can go new!

Anyone need a low hour/mile side by side?!

And I believe I’ve decided on a 2650 rops model, SSQA, 3rd function no rear remotes. With cutter, box scrape, tiller? and a grapple.

 

[MOOTS]

It’s happening!

Getting quotes on a B2650 and LX2610 and LX3310 FEL and 2 rear remotes. With rotary cutter, box blade and tiller with quick hitch.

Is there any reason to go with the B vs the LX? I know the LX will be a bit more $ as it’s new, but building them online, there is little difference, spec’d the same.

Ordered the EA root rake grapple today. They are 5 weeks out. Will pickup a summit hydraulics 3rd function in the coming weeks.

Wife thinks the B is too small. Wants me to get an L4701.... I told her it was too much.

 

[BigG]

I would pick the HST L2501 just because it does not have the pollution requirements that are imposed on the L3301.

I would get:
1) the front end loader with skid steer quick attach
2) the 3rd function remote for the front grapple when you buy it
3) at least 1 rear remote
4) a hydraulic top link
5) the telescoping stabilizers for the drag link part number L8430
6) R1 ag tires
7) 5 foot rotary cutter

For the grapple https://precisionmfg.com/ has a grapple that attaches to your bucket. It is a compromise as it is not perfect as a grapple but the cost is much lower and when loading your bucket the forks can be used to loosen the dirt and to help fill the bucket.

Just what I would (did) do.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I have a 2011 HST L3200 and a HST L3901 (recent purchase). I looked at the L3301 but the upgrade was not a lot more money for the extra power. A lot of people comment about buying the L2501 due to the pollution requirements. I never worried about this on my L3901, I wanted a little more HP than my older L3200.

This is a great size of tractor and very versatile but I believe you need more than the 19HP at PTO than the HST L2501 will give you. I use my L3200 and L3901 with many attachments, they run a 5' heavy duty brush hog well, 5' box blade, 5' rear blade, 5' tiller. 6' snow blower and so much more. My only slight negative is the FEL, be careful on your grapple weight or fork sizes and weight, the FEL is not that capable, however I tend to use my FEL on a MX5800 or forks on my kubota track loader, so my view is a little biased. The FEL will allow you to lift and move any 5' sized attachment you are likely to buy.

Out of all my equipment I think the HST L3301 / L3901 would be my selection if I just had to have one. Another recommendation is to put your money in your tractor first. You can buy attachments when you find them on Craigslist and save a lot of money.

My L3901 has:
Skid steer quick attach
3rd function front remotes
2 sets of rear remotes (good decision !)
Loaded rear tires
Rear work light
Telescoping stabilizers (a must have).

Remember a rear ballast box when lifting anything with the FEL. I had a scary experience and discovered that my dealer forgot to load the tires when lifting two large metal cages (about 400 lbs) with nothing on the back. I use a smaller set of 42" forks on this tractor.

Good luck with your final decision.

 

[Fordtech86]

Being you already ordered the grapple for the B I would say stick with the 2650. May fit the LX models too, but having been in the auto business my whole life, I would be leary of a new model. You would have a warranty but you are also the test dummy. The 2650 been out for a while and seems to be proven a good tractor.

Edit: you getting ssqa grapple, the L series may be more worth looking into. 4701 probably overkill for your needs, but the 2501 probably worth looking at given your needs.