Kubota L2501 - initial review

[Oliver]

Good that you have the tie rod guard on now.

I'll have to look but I imagine I'm at around 30 hours now so the 50 hr service will be coming up pretty soon. Trying to decide whether to change the SUDT as well as filters at the 50 service? Kubota says it is not necessary now so I maybe I will just do the filters.
For oil, Rotella T-6 5w-40 exceeds the specs and I already keep that oil on hand for my motorcycles, and for synthetic it's inexpensive, so I think I'll standardize on it. Another reason is I hate having part bottles of all different kinds of oil on the shelf. As it is now there's already three: T-6 for most of my motorcycles, Zero Turn, and now Kubota; 20w-50 for the BMW Airhead, Harley, and Zero Turn hydro drive, and 5w-30 (but not diesel rated) for my truck.

 

[troverman]

T6 is good oil - I run it in my 2018 RAM 3500 diesel and I ran it in my 2017 Ford F-250 diesel. It is a great price to buy 3 gallons on Amazon for like $55 shipped.

I buy the Kubota branded oil (which is not synthetic) because it was easy since I was already at the dealer for filters.

My Harley takes 20W50 and I actually run Valvoline VR1 racing oil which is high in zinc. I also run it in my zero turn mower HST drives which also take 20W50. The Kawasaki engine runs straight 30 weight or 10w30.

 

[Oliver]

My Harley takes 20W50 and I actually run Valvoline VR1 racing oil which is high in zinc. I also run it in my zero turn mower HST drives which also take 20W50....

VR1 is the 20w-50 that I have been using too but now that I'm just out will be replacing it with the Synthetic VR1 20w-50 because Ferris (or maybe it was the Ferris dealer who) recommended using synthetic in the hydro. Also a tech at Valvoline said VR1 would be great in the Harley and Airhead but it was designed for "racing" so it is low in "extended life additives", as racing oil get changed very frequently. I asked about the Synthetic version and he said that would be best if you leave in for over 3,000 miles.

 

[troverman]

VR1 is the 20w-50 that I have been using too but now that I'm just out will be replacing it with the Synthetic VR1 20w-50 because Ferris (or maybe it was the Ferris dealer who) recommended using synthetic in the hydro. Also a tech at Valvoline said VR1 would be great in the Harley and Airhead but it was designed for "racing" so it is low in "extended life additives", as racing oil get changed very frequently. I asked about the Synthetic version and he said that would be best if you leave in for over 3,000 miles.

Good info, I use the non-syn version. My zero turn has Hydro-Gear ZT3400 drives in it and doesn't ask for synthetic. It doesn't get used in the winter, has never been a problem. I do change the oil frequently on my bike.

 

[degoniaorange82]

Wow, made me go look to see if that plate was on mine! It is, and your review of the 2501 mirrors mine...at 82hrs. now, am still very pleased with this tractor. Recently traded a 60" finish mower for a land pride 72" deck, and am very happy with the way it performs with the wider cut. Also, when I did the 50hr. service, I drained the trans/hydro system and put new fluid in. It seemed to quiet the hydro "whine" somewhat.

 

[Oliver]

.....Also, when I did the 50hr. service, I drained the trans/hydro system and put new fluid in. It seemed to quiet the hydro "whine" somewhat.

Others here have done the same at the first service so I'm thinking what the hell for $90 or so I think I will too, for the piece of mind if nothing else.

 

[troverman]

For the record, at 51 hours, my UDT factory fill fluid was as clean as the new SUDT2 I added to make up for what I lost during the filter change.

 

[Tornado]

Catching up on the last few pages of the thread, as Ive been following trovermans 2501 review since I got mine at about the same time. Just wanted to add a few points regarding some of the issues here

1. One of my rear tires on my L2501 was right near 100% full of water as well when I got the tractor. I drained several gallons before It finally hit the stem at 12 o'clock. My other tire was around ~65%. I drained the high one down to match the other one.

2. The bumper plate that was discussed came installed on my new L2501.

Trover is outpacing me on hours with his 2501. I see you just did your 50 hour maintenance. Ive just crossed 20 hours on mine. Look to really put some hours on in the fall however when it cools down. Did you only change the items listed in the manual? It doesnt call for replacing all the hydro fluid for example, but some have replaced it ive read at 50 hours. Also, Is the sudt2 fluid not what is installed from the factory? I was under the impression kubota put their top fluid in form the factory, is that not so?

 

[troverman]

...Trover is outpacing me on hours with his 2501. I see you just did your 50 hour maintenance. Ive just crossed 20 hours on mine. Look to really put some hours on in the fall however when it cools down. Did you only change the items listed in the manual? It doesnt call for replacing all the hydro fluid for example, but some have replaced it ive read at 50 hours. Also, Is the sudt2 fluid not what is installed from the factory? I was under the impression kubota put their top fluid in form the factory, is that not so?

The manual says you only need to do the following at 50 hours:
1. Change engine oil and filter
2. Change HST transmission filter
3. Change hydraulic suction filter

The tractor comes with Super UDT 2 (SUDT2) from the factory, which is Kubota's most modern and top of the line hydraulic fluid. That is what I refilled mine with.

Some people go well above and beyond with the 50 hour service, replacing the air filter, fuel filter, front differential / axle fluid, and replacing all of the hydraulic fluid. To me, that's a waste and totally unnecessary. The SUDT2 that leaked out when I changed the hydraulic suction filter was clear and golden - nearly identical in color and texture to what I poured in from the new jug. SUDT2 is synthetic and expensive. The dealer talked about changing the front axle case oil from the factory-fill SUDT2 and replacing it at 50 hours with 80w90 gear oil. I declined - I've never changed front axle case oil on any of my 4 Kubotas, and never had an issue. My 2002 L4310 didn't receive any new hydraulic filter (or fluid) change until 510 hours and 15 years after it was new. It never had a problem. My 2013 B2920 was traded at 610 hours - never touched the front axle, used 4x4 a ton, no problems. I did change the hydraulic and HST filters on that tractor, but never the original fluid.

So if it makes you sleep better, feel free to change those items, but I can also tell you that you will be just fine following the owner's manual recommendation of hydraulic fluid change at 400 hours.

My L2501 will probably get another quick 50 hours added to it this fall, starting in about a week. After that, I'll have to determine if it, or the MX4800, will go into hibernation this winter...the other one will be used for a bit of snow removal, even though I have a plow truck that does most of it.

 

[Oliver]

So I got my new bumper guard from the dealer today. It was $44. They had two L2501 machines out front, and neither of them had the bumper. As such, they were not receptive to the idea of paying for the cost of mine. They acted like they had not seen such a piece before.

On Kubota's website (if I'm looking correctly) the base tractors appear to have the guard. https://www.kubotausa.com/products/tractors/compact/l01

Just for the heck of it I may swing by the local dealer and check their L01's to see if they have them or not.

FWIW I was out riding my motorcycle this afternoon and stopped at the Kubota dealer. I'm not sure if he was a salesman or tech but he had moved the tractors around and was mowing. Anyway he stopped mowing when he saw me inspecting the front of all the L01's, there were about a dozen or so L2501, 3301, and 3901's lined up and all had a loader. All also had the steering guard plate. He said almost every tractor they get is ordered from the factory with a loader and they all come with that plate. He said once in a while they get a tractor in without a loader but that's rare and didn't have one we could look at to see if a base tractor w/o a loader had the guard or not. He was pretty sure they would have it though, and was positive all tractors with loaders have the guard. He did say he thought the guard might need to be removed for installing a snow blower or front blade.

 

[Auafahrt]

I just read this whole thread and wanted to thank Troverman and the rest of you guys who contributed to this review. My B2650 is similar to your L2501 but what caught my eye was the flail mower since I plan to buy one.

My tractor is at our vacation home in Vermont and only has 16 hours after 16 months but that will change when I retire next year and live here full time. This is my first (and last) tractor so I am learning as I go and this forum has been very helpful.

 

[troverman]

Thanks Oliver for the follow up. Guess I got shafted, but at least it was only $44. Auafahrt, glad this review was useful to you.

To continue with my review, it is 27F here this morning and I plan on using my L2501. I’ll be heading out to the shop shortly and will see how it starts at these temps. I’ll try without glow plugs first which is what I’ve done since I’ve bought it.

 

[Oliver]

Thanks Oliver for the follow up. Guess I got shafted, but at least it was only $44. Auafahrt, glad this review was useful to you.

Who knows.... perhaps when dealers order an FEL kit, for a tractor they already have, the guard is not included or must be ordered separately? But yes for just $44 it's hardly worth worrying over, main thing is to have one on.

 

[troverman]

The tractor did start at 27F without glow plugs but it was rough. Glow plugs next time!

 

[Nicfin36]

The tractor did start at 27F without glow plugs but it was rough. Glow plugs next time!

Let us know how it works with the glow plugs. I'm much further south, but see the possibility of using my tractor during the winter under certain circumstances. The temperature can fall into the teens here, just not often.

 

[troverman]

Let us know how it works with the glow plugs. I'm much further south, but see the possibility of using my tractor during the winter under certain circumstances. The temperature can fall into the teens here, just not often.

I started it with glow plugs the next day (we had 29F) and it started very well as usual. I'm not really a fan of turning the key backwards for the glow setting. You can turn the key forward for glow as well, but its a very small zone before the engine cranks.

 

[Oliver]

.....I'm not really a fan of turning the key backwards for the glow setting.

I don't like this either, neither of my other Kubota's worked this way.

You can turn the key forward for glow as well, but its a very small zone before the engine cranks.

I didn't know that.

 

[troverman]

I don't like this either, neither of my other Kubota's worked this way.

I didn't know that.

Yes, very slowly turn the key forward and the glow light will come on. My dealer showed me. I also have the habit of re-engaging the glow position after the engine starts, to help smooth out the engine for the first 30 seconds or so during extremely cold weather. On the 2501, turning the key backwards to the glow position would shut the engine off, negating this advantage.

 

[Winginit]

I just read this whole thread and wanted to thank Troverman and the rest of you guys who contributed to this review. My B2650 is similar to your L2501 but what caught my eye was the flail mower since I plan to buy one.

My tractor is at our vacation home in Vermont and only has 16 hours after 16 months but that will change when I retire next year and live here full time. This is my first (and last) tractor so I am learning as I go and this forum has been very helpful.

I just bought a 2501 today and they are supposed to deliver it later today or tommorrow. Would like express my appreciation for all the information provided. On the point about the plate that protects the tie rod ends. I'm wondering if another piece of steel welded on the bottom of the existing plate (parallel to the ground) would not increase protection quite a bit ? Appears to be room in the pictures but like I said I'm still awaiting delivery.
As far as filling the tires, wouldn't it be beat to park crossways on a grade in order to get the most fluid in the tire ?
I'm going to start a thread on pricing..........

 

[Tornado]

One issue I have noticed with my 2501 now, as Ive been watching it over time, is a VERY slow leak of the front right side axle. You can see just a tiny bit of seepage over time in the little line where the two pieces of metal come together. Im posting a picture I found online that shows the location...It is the location just below the mans fingers in this picture, where the wheel assembly bolts onto the axle here. I can also see visible wear signs on the bolts that clearly indicate the dealer, or someone, put a wrench on them. I was told in another thread some weeks ago when I mentioned this that this wheel possibly ships from the factory not assembled on the tractor body, and is potentially assembled by the dealer, and this would explain the clear wear on these bolts from being wrenched. I bought the tractor brand new from a dealer lot and noticed this wear within first few hours. Ive always wondered about this....The leak is super slow. If you whipe the little crack down with a rag it takes many days to notice a tiny discoloration to reappear in the crack/line. Its just wet enough that you can see it and know that its seeping. Ive been told that this is sealed with an Oring, and the fix would be to take it apart and install a new Oring, or to simply live with it, given the seep is so little that Id estimate in a solid year you wouldn't have maybe 1 ounce or less seeping out. I have thus far elected to just ignore it because Im not someone who has done a lot of work on tractors, and while I have no doubt I could accomplish the fix likely, I just dont have a lot of interest in jumping on it. I would have to drain the axle I suspect, replace the O ring, get it all back together, then refill with fluid. Im not happy that it is seeping, but I also can see how slow and small it is.

Im curious if troverman or any others noted any similar leak here, or perhaps can see any wear on these bolts indicating they had been wrenched on either of the two front axles.

A 2nd image giving a little idea of what this seepage leak kinda looks like. Notice the "wet" little discoloration around the area where the axle comes together. For mine to look like this it would take probably a couple of weeks after wiping it clean.