Bought a one owner L2800 HST last year and it's developed a couple of starting issues. First, I have to rock with the foot pedal back and forth to find a "sweet" spot for the engine to turn over. Sometimes it works the first time and then again I give up and move on to something else and try again later. I feel sure there is a safety switch some where in the pedal linkage that needs adjusting or replacing, but couldn't find it. Any ideas? The second issue is when the starter tries to engage, the drive doesn't seem to engage the flywheel gear. Good (new) battery and starting voltage to the starter. Again, it works perfectly sometimes and then again it'll not engage. The gears are not chipped or broken. I've read where others have installed an other starter relay but don't know if that's the right answer. ANY help is appreciated.
L2800 with starting trouble
- Thread starter CMB
- Start date
Don't have a clue about the pedal thing because I don't have an HST tractor but the starter issue sounds like the Bendix is hanging up. You can lube it with WD 40.
First get some resource material such as a Workshop manual (WSM) from Kubotabooks.com for your tractor.
http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/in...s/&AutoIndex=aae12cb565025bee3e356e8676e88bcc
Look for the section on Operator Presence Control. Section 9-M3.
It will give you a better understanding of the various safety systems on your tractor.
When your starter does not work properly, be armed with a short length of approx 14 gauge wire. Bare about 1/2" of each end exposing copper.
Be very careful as this test can get you run over or worse as all safety features are bypassed. The online WSM is from Scotland. It may not be exactly the same as your machine but will be close. Preferably have someone on the tractor with foot on brake.
On your starter solenoid ( the smaller round upper part that the main battery cable connects to, look for a much smaller white wire. To "Jump," the starter first touch one bare end of your test wire to the large battery cable terminal. Next, when you touch the other bare end of your test wire to the terminal with the small white wire, the starter should immediately engage. There may be some small sparking as you touch but no concern.
If the starter does not engage and operate vigorously, then you ave identified your culprit. If it does operate as it should, then your issues lie in the Operator Presence Control circuit.
Section 9-S13 shows a similar test with the starter off the tractor. Clearly a safer way to test if you are uncertain.
Good luck and feel free to ask more questions.
Dave
Every time I had starting problems it was a safety switch. The seat was the normal problem...followed by the shifter safety switch making sure it is in neutral...
My take is start there...then maybe the jump of the starter...but mine was always a safety switch issue...
My take is start there...then maybe the jump of the starter...but mine was always a safety switch issue...
I think on the L2800 HST the actual electrical switch is found by your right foot in the pedestal. Should have four wires coming out of top. Plunger activated.
Look under the tractor beneath the HST pedal. You should see mechanical linkage moving that pushes on the plunger when the HST pedal is centered.
Make sure that the switch is firmly held in its metal case.
When the plunger is pushed, contacts 1 and 2 will be shorted; contacts 3 and 4 will be shorted.
First thing to look into is that HST switch is doing what it is supposed to do with mechanical linkage.
Look under the tractor beneath the HST pedal. You should see mechanical linkage moving that pushes on the plunger when the HST pedal is centered.
Make sure that the switch is firmly held in its metal case.
When the plunger is pushed, contacts 1 and 2 will be shorted; contacts 3 and 4 will be shorted.
First thing to look into is that HST switch is doing what it is supposed to do with mechanical linkage.
Thanks everyone, you've provided lots of help and reading material. I'll look again around the foot pedal and see if I can find the wiring and switch. I'll pull the starter again and put power to the solenoid to see if the bendix (?) is working correctly. May take a few days to get to it, but I'll let you know what I find.
North Idaho Wolfman
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When the HST pedal switch is out of adjustment or bad, it will affect the starter engagement to the point where it will make the starter seem damaged or weak.
I would fix the pedal switch issue first then go from there.
I would fix the pedal switch issue first then go from there.
Based on the past week's workload, if you think it's a safety switch, replace the engine, clutch, transmission, wiring harness, battery. Then when you're lost, take it to the dealer and they'll replace the one fuse ya missed and you'll be on your way.
NIH is likely right. The HST pedal switch (aka neutral switch) has been a sore subject with those tractors. I'd start there first. They will sometimes act up and make you think that there's something else bad wrong. And no I wouldn't go bypassing any of them with a piece of wire even for diagnostic purposes. I had a tech working for me when I was independent, did a field repair for a 4200 that wouldn't start. His diagnosis was the same...piece of wire or in his case a paper clip, hits the key, tractor starts, runs over him and drags him in front of the bush hog which was dragging the ground behind the tractor. Got messed up pretty good but he's alive and laughs about it to this day. I don't laugh about it. It was a serious deal. It only takes a minute to properly diagnose a switch with a cordless test light, but it takes years (if ever) to recover from injury caused by the other way.
NIH is likely right. The HST pedal switch (aka neutral switch) has been a sore subject with those tractors. I'd start there first. They will sometimes act up and make you think that there's something else bad wrong. And no I wouldn't go bypassing any of them with a piece of wire even for diagnostic purposes. I had a tech working for me when I was independent, did a field repair for a 4200 that wouldn't start. His diagnosis was the same...piece of wire or in his case a paper clip, hits the key, tractor starts, runs over him and drags him in front of the bush hog which was dragging the ground behind the tractor. Got messed up pretty good but he's alive and laughs about it to this day. I don't laugh about it. It was a serious deal. It only takes a minute to properly diagnose a switch with a cordless test light, but it takes years (if ever) to recover from injury caused by the other way.
Learned something from just about everyone...some things to do and not to do. I worked on aircraft and also with an electric utility so I know to do it the safe way first time every time. I Found the pedal neutral switch, adjusted it. silicon lubed the plunger shaft and lubed the mechanical linkage points on the pedal. Turned the key and it fired up just like it's supposed to do. Wolfman was correct, the starter doesn't drag and the bendix engages immediately. Thanks to everyone for the help