Hello all, it's me again. MX5200 hst. Just bought a magnetic heater for the oil pan only to find that the pan isn't magnetic. Are they aluminum? If so, do I need to be worried about stripping the threads with too much torque? I wish they specified a torque value in the manual because I tend to overtighten bolts.
Aluminum oil pan?
- Thread starter GamblerAcres
- Start date
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Gambler -
I just checked the pan on my little BX. Magnet sticks, but man, I'm really careful with oil pans....
I just checked the pan on my little BX. Magnet sticks, but man, I'm really careful with oil pans....
Invest in a Kubota block heater. Those magnetic heaters do not work very well, if at all.
Gotcha.
Although I've had to use it all this winter, even on a few 5 degree days. I know it will start no problem but I'm more concerned with how long the thick cold oil takes to completely circulate. I'm just trying to prevent unnecessary wear.
When I lived in the north, I used a magnetic heater and it worked great. I stuck a thermocouple connected to a thermometer down the oil fill tube and I would see 70 to 80 deg oil temperatures on a minus 5 morning. Tractor parked in an unheated but well sealed barn.
Just sayin
Just sayin
85Hokie
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Heating the water is 100% better than heating the oil! The heated water will slowly move itself around the block/head......hot oil just decreases the viscosity of the oil....which can be done with 5w-40 diesel oil
5w is much easier to spin through a oil pump than 10w!
The wear can be reduced further with a 5w-40 synthetic oil!
Lacking factory torque specification.... There are STANDARD torque specifications for each bolt-size/thread-ptich/material/coating/grade bolt. It is all based on "shop math" most of us learned in high-school.
Here is an example ==> http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html
I pretty much stopped referring to factory torque-specs since they are mostly based on the standards anyway.
The only 'funky' specifications I have come across is the TTY bolts. (torque to yield) which are PURPOSEFULLY tightened until they stretch when installed and NEVER reused. When properly installed, these bolts clamp like a spring and allow movement of the components whilst maintaining seal.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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#1 Why do you need to remove or re-torque the oil pan bolts in the first place?
#2 It really wouldn't matter what the oil pan is made of, as the bolts don't thread into the oil pan they thread into a steel block, and you're more then likely going to crack the pan or break a bolt before you strip out the steel threads.
#3 It takes about 1/2 a second or less for oil to get to the bearings, usually happens way before it will ever fire off, these motors do not drain the oil back into the pan when they are shut off and the system never is dry not even on an oil change.
#4 A block heater is a much better setup as it heats every component in the system, in the inverse of the cooling systems job. Heating the oil does nothing for the actual wear points of the components.
#2 It really wouldn't matter what the oil pan is made of, as the bolts don't thread into the oil pan they thread into a steel block, and you're more then likely going to crack the pan or break a bolt before you strip out the steel threads.
#3 It takes about 1/2 a second or less for oil to get to the bearings, usually happens way before it will ever fire off, these motors do not drain the oil back into the pan when they are shut off and the system never is dry not even on an oil change.
#4 A block heater is a much better setup as it heats every component in the system, in the inverse of the cooling systems job. Heating the oil does nothing for the actual wear points of the components.
This was my point. It'd be easier to put in a block heater as well.Heating the water is 100% better than heating the oil! The heated water will slowly move itself around the block/head......hot oil just decreases the viscosity of the oil....which can be done with 5w-40 diesel oil
5w is much easier to spin through a oil pump than 10w!
The wear can be reduced further with a 5w-40 synthetic oil!
I agree. A block heater is much better. I plan on adding one this fall. I just did my 50 hr service and used the Shell Rotella t5 15-40 oil. We still have some freezing temps in the forecast so I figured I'd stick a magnetic heater on the oil pan to reduce viscosity until temps warm up for good. I'll use the t6 next time.Heating the water is 100% better than heating the oil! The heated water will slowly move itself around the block/head......hot oil just decreases the viscosity of the oil....which can be done with 5w-40 diesel oil
5w is much easier to spin through a oil pump than 10w!
The wear can be reduced further with a 5w-40 synthetic oil!
#1 I don't. Why would you ask this?
#2 If the oil pan is aluminum, which bolt(s) thread into the pan? Take a minute to think about it, you'll figure it out.
#3 Not true. I can actually hear how long it takes from the sound of the engine. On the really cold days it takes a good 15 seconds to smooth out and quiet down. This can't be a good thing but maybe it's minor in the grand scheme of things.
North Idaho Wolfman said:
#1 Why do you need to remove or re-torque the oil pan bolts in the first place?
#2 It really wouldn't matter what the oil pan is made of, as the bolts don't thread into the oil pan they thread into a steel block, and you're more then likely going to crack the pan or break a bolt before you strip out the steel threads.
#3 It takes about 1/2 a second or less for oil to get to the bearings, usually happens way before it will ever fire off, these motors do not drain the oil back into the pan when they are shut off and the system never is dry not even on an oil change.
#4 A block heater is a much better setup as it heats every component in the system, in the inverse of the cooling systems job. Heating the oil does nothing for the actual wear points of the components.
__________________
GamblerAcres, in your original post you asked, "If so, do I need to be worried about stripping the threads with too much torque?" Did it occur to you the answer NIW gave was in response to THAT question?
Statement #2, Reread NIW's response. He stated the bolts thread into the steel block. I highlighted it in red to make it obvious.
Statement #3, the noise you're referring to isn't related to oil pressure. It has to do with compression ignition engine, injector timing and heat. Diesel clatter is caused by ignition lag, which occurs between the start of injection and the start of ignition. And more pronounced when engine is cold.
I do believe in your Work Shop Manual there is a page showing torque specs. for various bolts. Post #12 that Bruce posted will cover your concerns, I think, if you don't have a WSM.
#1 Why do you need to remove or re-torque the oil pan bolts in the first place?
#2 It really wouldn't matter what the oil pan is made of, as the bolts don't thread into the oil pan they thread into a steel block, and you're more then likely going to crack the pan or break a bolt before you strip out the steel threads.
#3 It takes about 1/2 a second or less for oil to get to the bearings, usually happens way before it will ever fire off, these motors do not drain the oil back into the pan when they are shut off and the system never is dry not even on an oil change.
#4 A block heater is a much better setup as it heats every component in the system, in the inverse of the cooling systems job. Heating the oil does nothing for the actual wear points of the components.
__________________
Maybe it's too early in the morning for me, or not enough coffee.
GamblerAcres, in your original post you asked, "If so, do I need to be worried about stripping the threads with too much torque?" Did it occur to you the answer NIW gave was in response to THAT question?
Statement #2, Reread NIW's response. He stated the bolts thread into the steel block. I highlighted it in red to make it obvious.
Statement #3, the noise you're referring to isn't related to oil pressure. It has to do with compression ignition engine, injector timing and heat. Diesel clatter is caused by ignition lag, which occurs between the start of injection and the start of ignition. And more pronounced when engine is cold.
I do believe in your Work Shop Manual there is a page showing torque specs. for various bolts. Post #12 that Bruce posted will cover your concerns, I think, if you don't have a WSM.
I have the owner's manual only. If they make a shop manual for the MX I need to get one.