Loader Pins

[AllDodge]

When Kubota says grease pins every 10 hrs, I would do it. They don't chrome plate the pins so its reg steel to steel. Not sure if loader was ever greased, but there is orange paint on the zerk's.

In any case, I have taken a torch to the pin and rod end, and its still not budging. It was glowing red where ever the torch was, and I'm starting to worry about the seal end on the rod. I'm hitting it with a 10 pound sledge back and forth, but next to no movement.

Thinking about removing the cylinder and mount so it can be laid on the ground. Looking for ideas of how the pin might be removed.

 

[85Hokie]

A friend of mine had the exact same problem.....
Lots of penetrating oil.....
BFH and tapped one way till it moved just a bit....more oil, tapped the other - take zerk out and spraying into the hole.

It took 30 minutes ....right when I was ready to quit...it moved a 1/64 inch.

Once it moved ....then it was easy!

keep banging - but dont mushroom the head I used a socket over the pin

 

[GeoHorn]

Heating it "cherry red" was not something I'd recommend. It alters the heat treatment/hardness of the parts... and it swells the pin even tighter. Applying heat to the bushings...but NOT the pin and NOT the end of the cylinder would assist removal... and never to the point of "red".
There should have been a zerk beneath it that takes the grease.
Anyway, any damage is already done now...so penetrating oil and time and patience....

 

[AllDodge]

That's what I've been doing along with the ox/axe torch, and spent most of the day doing it. I'm tired so letting it sit over night and see about tomorrow

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Is it stuck on the cylinder or the frame or both?

One trick is to heat it up and quench it in motor oil that sometimes will pop the bond loose.

Another trick is to hack saw / sawzall / porta band, the pin on either side of the cylinder then you will have three shorter pins with a lot less resistance to get them out.

 

[AllDodge]

Its stuck on the cylinder, so much so that the keeper was snapped in two.

Have managed to get other pins out with how I just tried but so far with this one no good. Have used water and also oil

Figure the cylinder and bracket weight is probably 200 lb at least. Sure whish they made these chrome plated

 

[russell.still.5]

I had to do the same thing on my 9540 with all the pins on the front. I tried everything. Heat, penetrating oil, 10lb sledge. Nothing would break them loose. Ended up having to cut them in to with a recip saw and then have them pressed out. There was just enough play for the blade to go beside the cylinder.


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[Wbk]

Worst case you cut the end off of the cylinder and have a new one made and weld it on, the more you beat on the end of the pin your likely to open up the ears on the bracket, the pin is seized in the cylinder end not the bracket.

 

[AllDodge]

I had to do the same thing on my 9540 with all the pins on the front. I tried everything. Heat, penetrating oil, 10lb sledge. Nothing would break them loose. Ended up having to cut them in to with a recip saw and then have them pressed out. There was just enough play for the blade to go beside the cylinder.

Might do that. I asked the question on HEF and a guy mentiones that since the pins are mild steel (crap way to make pins) I could weld some large thread all on the end. Make a puller from it, pipe and washers. Then heat, beat , tighten and repeat.

My backhoe is next to the loader, so I can use it to remove the cylinder and bracket. Once removed I can get it into my shop with a press.

Kubota makes a nice tractor but junk loaders. I get this one out, might look into replacing all the pins with some better ones. Then again, I grease things so is probably a non-issue

cut the end off of the cylinder and have a new one made and weld it on

That would take some real doing. The pins are mild steel but not the cylinder. Could be cut off with a torch but then I would still need to remove the end.

 

[russell.still.5]

I asked the question on HEF and a guy mentiones that since the pins are mild steel (crap way to make pins) I could weld some large thread all on the end. Make a puller from it, pipe and washers.

I drilled a hole all the way through one of mine and tried the pipe and all thread trick. Put an impact on it and the nuts were harder than the all thread and it stripped the threads before it moved.



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[kevinj]

Then again, I grease things so is probably a non-issue
.

Yep, I been running Kubota & other brands for over 30 years, never stuck a pin.

grease is the answer.

You have the pin galled inside the cylinder.

 

[AllDodge]

The guy mentioned to not to over tighten the all thread. Its just used to keep the tension on it.

Have to go out of town for some siding, might try cutting both sides so I can have less to work with.

Crappy Kubots parts

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Crappy Kubots parts

Don't blame the parts or the parts design, it's the lack of lubrication that's to blame in this case!

 

[lugbolt]

I've had to burn those out before.

 

[AllDodge]

Don't blame the parts or the parts design, it's the lack of lubrication that's to blame in this case!

Agree the lack of lube caused it to seize, but it seized because it was an unplated mild steel part. If it was a quality hardened steel, chrome plated pin like all other heavy equipment manufactures use, it would not have seize.

With mils steel, even if its greased regularly or even more so, the pin will wear out and not take that long.

Have not seen, but bet when I get the pin out, I will not find a bushing in the rod arm bore (another reason why it rusted together

 

[AllDodge]

My real cheap (so to speak) little Terramite uses hardened chrome plated pins

 

[Fro65]

I'm no engineer and maybe a little slow but it seems to me Kubota is doing things right. Wouldn't one rather the pins be softer than the loader arm bushings so the less expensive part is the wear or sacrificial part?

Harder pins can't make up for poor maintenance. I have had chrome hitch pins rust and gall in place before.

Hope someone can set me straight.

 

[Fordtech86]

Don’t know what tools you have available but since it’s already damaged could you take a ball joint press and run it on tight with an impact while heating it. Then keep heat and impact going if it starts to go? May have to cut that head off the one side that’s broke to get it through the end of the ball joint press.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If it was a quality hardened steel, chrome plated pin like all other heavy equipment manufactures use, it would not have seize.

Fro65 nailed it on the head!

It is much cheaper and easier to replace the pins, than it is to replace the cylinder and or loader bracket bushings.
A part has to wear and I would rather it be the pins than the loader.

I've worked on plenty of equipment that has hardened pins and bushings and when that fails it's very costly to have to line bore, reinstall thicker bushings and still need new pins.

 

[Fro65]

Thanks Wolfman...thought maybe I was looking at things bass-ackwards.