Fish Lifes B6100 Restoration

[FishLife]

I do believe mid PTO, which your tractor does not have, if I remember right actually none of the B6100 or B7100 had a selectable mid PTO.

That same case was used on many different models, and they might have used that location on the F units.

That would make sense. I guess it would of been for a MMM.

 

[FishLife]

Got a lot of painting done today.

 

[torch]

What function would have gone in this location? Cant find any info on it.

I believe that is for the range shift lever on the B5100. Don't ask me why it was on the left side when its bigger brothers had it on the right.

 

[FishLife]

Could someone post a picture of there throttle assembly. I thought I took a picture of it before taking it apart but I guess I didnt. I cant remember the orientation of some of the washers. Parts diagram isnt clear either.

 

[torch]

These are of my B7100. Clearly a bit different, but may be similar enough to serve as a guide?

 

[FishLife]

These are of my B7100. Clearly a bit different, but may be similar enough to serve as a guide?

Thanks for the help. I happen to find a picture that showed just enough to tell me how it was.

 

[FishLife]

Just some progress update pictures.

 

[FishLife]

Few more pictures.

 

[FishLife]

Only pieces left on the chassis that need blue paint are the steering box and three point hitch. Steam washed the hitch and its ready to be media blasted and painted. Also worked on the steering box. I took it apart and it was nasty and full of sludge and water. Fortunately all the internal components looked new. No rust or corrosion anywhere inside. Took the ball nut apart and cleaned the bearings, shaft, and nut. All were in excellent condition. All races smooth and shiny and didnt have any scratches or galling. When I finished I wrapped it in a plastic bag to keep dust out of it. The hex nut has a almost hole rusted in it and at first I thought it was a rusted set screw. Looked at the parts diagram to make sure before I started turning it. No mention of one so I proceeded With caution to remove it. That little hex nut is $23 bucks so I will machine an new one. So all the steering needs is new seals, hex nut, and paint. Thought I was going to have a long weekend to work on it but the wife wants to go furniture shopping tomorrow.

 

[D2Cat]

FishLife, one thing is obvious....you are not one of those people who have a broken GO button!

Nice work, and appreciate the detail pictures. When you get finished are you using it in parades?

 

[Lil Foot]

Or put it in a museum?

 

[FishLife]

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. Does anyone know if you can get replacement boots for the draglink? The joints are still good but the boots are old and brittle.

 

[Lil Foot]

I found some tie rod end boots that fit mine at O'Reillys:
Don't remember which one.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...ie-rod-boot-13354/cf4e65194cf8?q=tie+rod+boot

 

[FishLife]

I found some tie rod end boots that fit mine at O'Reillys:
Don't remember which one.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...ie-rod-boot-13354/cf4e65194cf8?q=tie+rod+boot

Thanks, I will check there tomorrow.

 

[FishLife]

Little set back today. I went to mount the front axel and noticed oil leaking from the spindles. I never noticed it back in December when I painted it (which the Kubota rattle can was still soft) but maybe I didnt pay that much attention since I originally wasnt going to restore it to the level that I have gone to. So far I have steamed cleaned the axel again and have the left side all taken apart and bearings, pins and case are all cleaned. The bearings, gears, and u joint are all good so it looks like just oil seals and gaskets will be replaced. Starting to disassemble the right side now.

 

[motorhead]

As a kid in the 60' and 70's, I worked on MANY VW Busses and the front reduction boxes of your Kubota remind me of them. They were a PITA as they were usually destroyed and bearings welded to the shafts from no oil.

 

[motorhead]

As a kid in the 60' and 70's, I worked on MANY VW Busses and the front reduction boxes of your Kubota remind me of the REAR reduction boxes on them. They as on the kubota also added ground clearance. They were a P.I.T.A. as they were usually destroyed and bearings welded to the shafts from no oil.

 

[FishLife]

As a kid in the 60' and 70's, I worked on MANY VW Busses and the front reduction boxes of your Kubota remind me of the REAR reduction boxes on them. They as on the kubota also added ground clearance. They were a P.I.T.A. as they were usually destroyed and bearings welded to the shafts from no oil.

I got lucky. Everything came apart with ease accept one top pin that I had to use a slide hammer on and it wasnt all that bad. Thank goodness!

 

[motorhead]

I got lucky. Everything came apart with ease accept one top pin that I had to use a slide hammer on and it wasnt all that bad. Thank goodness!

MAJOR part in your favor is that the little Kubota top speed is maybe 10-12 mph where these old busses, even though the engine was screaming, were running 55-60 mph with low or NO oil in those reduction boxes. Saw a lot of carnage. Oh well...Job Security.
As said before, you are doing a very nice refurbish on that tractor. it is the kind of refurb that you go through everything, make sure it is all in good order, rebuild as necessary, re-paint and then USE IT. I am currently refurbishing my 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub motorcycle. Doing what you are doing job wise, repaint, rebuild the engine, powder coating the frame and doing some non stock modifications to make it more reliable. As long as you saw OIL leaking on the driveway, you knew it still has oil in it!

 

[FishLife]

I have been looking at the parts diagram and trying to figure out how the lower pin and thrust bearing gets grease to it. There is a zerk fitting on the top but not the bottom. When I took it apart it looked like a whole tube of grease was pumped in the case. But then how does it get between the lower bushing and pin then to the thrust bearing?