Sharpening Brush Hog
- Thread starter Stmar
- Start date
Take the blades off and sharpen them with a flap disc on a 7” grinder.
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johnjk
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Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
I was told by my Kubota dealer to also not bring them to a sharp point but rather leave the edge rounded off like a #2 pencil. If you put a sharp edge on it, then it will get beat up and ruined going through heave stuff, saplings, stumps, ant mounds (my favorite)etc...
I have not looked at removing them from my Woods brush hog, but need to get on them this spring. I may try leaning it against a tree and hitting it with an angle grinder
I have not looked at removing them from my Woods brush hog, but need to get on them this spring. I may try leaning it against a tree and hitting it with an angle grinder
If you get them sharp like a lawn mower blade, it can cut sapling off and they will be sharp enough to puncture a tire. A blunt edge will “shatter” the stump so it won’t be sharp.
I have heard that woods blades are easy to remove. It’s a small bolt through a retaining clip which hold the “blade bolt” in.
I have tried to sharpen blades while on the cutter and i can’t get the grinder in a satisfactory position to really sharpen them.
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Newlyme
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M4900 w/loader, finish mower, tiller, auger, rake. BX24 w/loader, backhoe
Next time you are at the dealer, Tractor Supply, or similar place take a look at a new blade and sharpen it similarly. 
Nothing like seeing it first hand.
Nothing like seeing it first hand.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Believe it or not.....crawling under and getting it done is about the only answer!!!
Getting those nuts off requires a butt load of torque and I tried many years ago! 1 1/4 socket and a 8' cheater bar!!!!! Nuttin!
Make sure the cutter is in a safe situation and get a 4" grinder and hit those edges......
and as others have said.....sharp IS a bad thing......you want a dull edge across, unless grass is THE ONLY thing being cut, which is not often the case, a dull even edge will cut up "stuff" and not leave sharp edges on branches and IF you hit a rock, it will not take a huge chunk out of the blade.
Getting those nuts off requires a butt load of torque and I tried many years ago! 1 1/4 socket and a 8' cheater bar!!!!! Nuttin!
Make sure the cutter is in a safe situation and get a 4" grinder and hit those edges......
and as others have said.....sharp IS a bad thing......you want a dull edge across, unless grass is THE ONLY thing being cut, which is not often the case, a dull even edge will cut up "stuff" and not leave sharp edges on branches and IF you hit a rock, it will not take a huge chunk out of the blade.
Unlike most, I keep the blades on all 4 of my rough cut mowers sharp lake a lawn mower. Cut is better, mower takes less HP and tractors use less fuel.
Yes, my ground is clean and I do not hit rocks, dirt, etc., or cut saplings.
I simply reach under the raised mowers with a 4.5" angle grinder. When installing new blades, I sharpen before installation. I touch up blades after each use.
Sharp blades are not recommended if cutting saplings as cleanly cut saplings are much more likely to puncture tires than are saplings shattered with dull blades.
SDT
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
To remove the blades there is normally a hole with a cover on top of the deck. Take off cover and rotate by hand the blades or stump jumper until you see the nut.
Get a (3/4 drive) heavy wall socket and extension and a breaker bar. See if you can get them loose by hand. If not then rig a small come along to the three point structure on the mower and the breaker bar and make sure you have it turning the correct direction to loosen the nut. Break it loose with the come-along.
Or go to Northern Tool and order the torque multiplier for around 250 dollars and use that. You can use that along with a torque wrench to replace the blades and torque the nuts.
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Get a (3/4 drive) heavy wall socket and extension and a breaker bar. See if you can get them loose by hand. If not then rig a small come along to the three point structure on the mower and the breaker bar and make sure you have it turning the correct direction to loosen the nut. Break it loose with the come-along.
Or go to Northern Tool and order the torque multiplier for around 250 dollars and use that. You can use that along with a torque wrench to replace the blades and torque the nuts.
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I took mine off with a thunder gun. I cranked the pressure up to 130 psi just for some extra zip.
I take mine off with an impact. In the past I have used Heat and Kroll oil to get em loose the first time. I also use anti-seize compound when I put em back on.
I pick it up with the FEL, grinder the rough stuff off, then sharpen with die grinder & 40 grit pads for grass,etc. For heavy cutting (brush up to 3") just the grinder. If that stick in the picture slips, we'll assume you quit the forum!
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