kubota b6100 clutch replacement

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Ok here is one way to get it exact without having to pull the motor apart at all.

You would set up a boring rack and bar and use the motor like a lathe, run it a bore the hole into it.

It's fairly easy tool to make and operate.
If you need more info I can sketch it up for you.

EDIT: Russell has a good idea too! He was typing as the same time as me.

 

[orangerust]

Ok here is one way to get it exact without having to pull the motor apart at all.

You would set up a boring rack and bar and use the motor like a lathe, run it a bore the hole into it.

It's fairly easy tool to make and operate.
If you need more info I can sketch it up for you.

EDIT: Russell has a good idea too! He was typing as the same time as me.

Both great ideas. please sketch it up for me.
I have a good machininst who I am sure could make such a tool

 

[torch]

I would suggest using an endmill rather than a drill bit. A drill bit will still flex in the direction of the oval and leave a bell mouth. An endmill held in such a fixture will produce better results.

As for JB Weld, I have seen it used to repair deep gouges in a gas engine cylinder wall. It's amazing just how tough that stuff is. (I'm talking of the original version, not the "Quik" 5 - minute version.)

 

[orangerust]

I would suggest using an endmill rather than a drill bit. A drill bit will still flex in the direction of the oval and leave a bell mouth. An endmill held in such a fixture will produce better results.

As for JB Weld, I have seen it used to repair deep gouges in a gas engine cylinder wall. It's amazing just how tough that stuff is. (I'm talking of the original version, not the "Quik" 5 - minute version.)

It appears that whoever made this worn out sleeve made it to the fit the seal hole not the pilot hole behind it. Greater circumference but a fraction of the depth of what the pilot bushing shouild be. still digging out crud from the actual pilot bearing area behind it to see how much of the walls are intact. Am taking out the driveshaft today.

 

[orangerust]

I would suggest using an endmill rather than a drill bit. A drill bit will still flex in the direction of the oval and leave a bell mouth. An endmill held in such a fixture will produce better results.

As for JB Weld, I have seen it used to repair deep gouges in a gas engine cylinder wall. It's amazing just how tough that stuff is. (I'm talking of the original version, not the "Quik" 5 - minute version.)

How about this:
What if I were to have a bearing installed in the flywheel? There is nothing there now but a hole. Would a bearing in the flywheel provide enough stability to avoid needing a bushing at the end?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How about this:
What if I were to have a bearing installed in the flywheel? There is nothing there now but a hole. Would a bearing in the flywheel provide enough stability to avoid needing a bushing at the end?

Yes if:
#1 You can make the hole centered and deep enough for the bearing
#2 You can make the hole tight enough for the bearing to not spin on the race
#3 Find a high speed, high pressure bearing that will hold up, there is not a lot of space there to work with.

 

[orangerust]

Yes if:
#1 You can make the hole centered and deep enough for the bearing
#2 You can make the hole tight enough for the bearing to not spin on the race
#3 Find a high speed, high pressure bearing that will hold up, there is not a lot of space there to work with.

The flywheel is something I can take to an automotive machine shop.
Hopefully they would know the tolerance to keep it from spinning and center properly. I could supply them with the shaft and clutch assembly to aid in that.
As for size could I not make the outer diameter bigger?
As is this flywheel is junk so I thought it would be worth a try.
Well just thinking out loud..

 

[orangerust]

Yes if:
#1 You can make the hole centered and deep enough for the bearing
#2 You can make the hole tight enough for the bearing to not spin on the race
#3 Find a high speed, high pressure bearing that will hold up, there is not a lot of space there to work with.

Getting the propeller shaft out has been real work. It does not slide out the front aparently. The joint at the end is too big and it wont go out any of the access holes. Had to remove the circlip holding it together through the propeller shaft hole and separate the two. The other difficulty is the big thin seal that fits into the back of the bell housing hole that the shaft runs through. need to tap it in with something but not enough room to get at it through the access opening underneath. Me thinks all this was meant to be done with this unit separated from the transaxle section...or is there another way?

 

[D2Cat]

It's been over a couple of years since I had a similar challenge. I'll try to explain what I did.

I made a seal puller out of some PVC pipe or fitting (I don't remember) and some threaded rod.

I has a piece of the PVC on the back side of the seal that fit the appropriate diameter of the seal. There was a steel flat washer on the back of the PVC and a nut on the all thread. The all thread had the nut on one end, then the flat washer, the the PVC up to the seal. Then on the outer side of the bell housing I had a similar setup with another piece of PVC pipe to span the opening. Then a flat washer and a nut.

I had a helper to get it all lined up and pray with me as we turned the nuts to pull it all together!! It took a bit to keep the seal going square to the bell housing.

I think I kept all the "hardware" because it was so unusual. I'll look and see if I can locate it and take some pictures. Maybe this sketch will help.

One other thing. I had the rear tires blocked real good and the front was up off the floor by about 2'. Made for much better working conditions under there.

 

[orangerust]

It's been over a couple of years since I had a similar challenge. I'll try to explain what I did.

I made a seal puller out of some PVC pipe or fitting (I don't remember) and some threaded rod.

I has a piece of the PVC on the back side of the seal that fit the appropriate diameter of the seal. There was a steel flat washer on the back of the PVC and a nut on the all thread. The all thread had the nut on one end, then the flat washer, the the PVC up to the seal. Then on the outer side of the bell housing I had a similar setup with another piece of PVC pipe to span the opening. Then a flat washer and a nut.

I had a helper to get it all lined up and pray with me as we turned the nuts to pull it all together!! It took a bit to keep the seal going square to the bell housing.

I think I kept all the "hardware" because it was so unusual. I'll look and see if I can locate it and take some pictures. Maybe this sketch will help.

One other thing. I had the rear tires blocked real good and the front was up off the floor by about 2'. Made for much better working conditions under there.

That sounds like a good idea Ill try to get something like that together.
My tractor is actually in 2 pieces right now so I can easily get in fron of that bell housing and do whatever. such an unfriendly design I wonder what they were thinking?

 

[torch]

I wonder what they were thinking?

God made Mechanics so Engineers would have someone to look up to.

Unfortunately, that means the Mechanics have to fix all the Engineers' mistakes.

 

[D2Cat]

Since you have good access, once you gather the hardware to make your puller the only challenge will be to keep the seal square as you pull it into place. Pulling the seal through a curved surface....is fun.

You obviously have the mechanical skills! Patience is a virtue, for sure.

 

[orangerust]

God made Mechanics so Engineers would have someone to look up to.

Unfortunately, that means the Mechanics have to fix all the Engineers' mistakes.

I restore 1960's yamaha motorcycles as a profession so I see alot of stupid engineering or engineering done against the mechanic. I just thought Kubota was smarter I mean, a farmer with a handful of tools should be able to work on these tractors no? Ive got a full shop here and its challenging me.

 

[orangerust]

Since you have good access, once you gather the hardware to make your puller the only challenge will be to keep the seal square as you pull it into place. Pulling the seal through a curved surface....if fun.

You obviously have the mechanical skills! Patience is a virtue, for sure.

I still dont understand how the back of the crank and the flywheel got so damaged, I have the propeller shaft out now but it looks pretty straight.
The only thing I noticed was that the pin that holds the shaft to the splined male end coming out of the transaxle was missing. Maybe the shaft came off and banged around but the wear on fly wheel and crank suggests its been going on for a while. If the shaft had come off the tractor would not have been usable. The rear joint with the ball bearings didnt have any unusual looseness. Need to understand what caused the damage before putting it back together.

 

[torch]

I restore 1960's yamaha motorcycles as a profession so I see alot of stupid engineering or engineering done against the mechanic.

Yamaha's early engineering has to be viewed through the filter of having really tiny hands...

 

[orangerust]

Yamaha's early engineering has to be viewed through the filter of having really tiny hands...

so very true.

 

[orangerust]

Since you have good access, once you gather the hardware to make your puller the only challenge will be to keep the seal square as you pull it into place. Pulling the seal through a curved surface....is fun.

You obviously have the mechanical skills! Patience is a virtue, for sure.

I was able to install that seal using a modified axle puller and a good deal of luck. The tractor is together now. As for the flywheel I had a machinist enlarge the flywheel center hole and press in a large brass bushing that extends about 1/4" into the flywheel. Worth a try. The frictional wear occurs when the clutch is used, which is less than the putting the bushing in the crank end where it sees constant wear. Neither location had its own lubrication source and that concerns me as well as any grease I manually put in the new bushing might find its way onto the flywheel face. But its worth a try. Have a few hours on the tractor so far so good.

 

[torch]

Oilite or bearing bronze? Both would be good choices, but oilite is porous and comes impregnated with an oil.

 

[orangerust]

Oilite or bearing bronze? Both would be good choices, but oilite is porous and comes impregnated with an oil.

Bearing bronze. I recall the machinist thinking about it for a bit and he went for the bearing bronze. Used a bit of brake lube grease in it as it tends to stay put better.

 

[torch]

That should be good for many years to come, I would think.