kubota b6100 clutch replacement

[Jonathan DeWitt]

We are replacing the clutch on a B6001E which is supposed to be the same as a B6100E. The problem we are having is the release bearing appears to be roughly 1/4" too short to push the clutch fingers in enough to release it.

When you look through the starter hole with an inspection mirror there is about a 1/4" of travel from the beginning of movement until it reaches the clutch. The bearing is 15mm thick (+-) which looking at other sources seems to be correct. That leaves the clutch its self being too short. I haven't measured it but but I believe that it is by the book the correct clutch for a B6100E.

The reason I believe this is we got the tractor a couple of years ago with clutch issues (would not disengage completely). We took it apart and found the pilot bearing gone and damage to the crank and trans shaft.

I traded some stuff and got those parts repaired by a Youtuber that does machine work. so now we are putting it back together and realizing that we have the same problem with releasing as the last clutch which is exactly the same as the one we put in and still in good shape.

Any of you guys have experience with a B6001E clutch or know a JDM source for parts?

 

[torch]

I believe the B6100 is essentially the same design as my B7100. The pedal pushes a rod, which rotates a lever which turns a shaft which rotates a fork which pushes a bearing carrier. And finally, the bearing pushes the clutch fingers. All of the above (except the bearing and clutch itself) is visible from the exterior, although you have to get underneath the tractor and peak through an opening in the frame past the hydraulic pipes to see the fork and the bearing carrier.

Check the lever on the left side of the case and make sure it is firmly affixed to the shaft. Check the clutch release fork for play or wear. You have to get underneath, looking up through the opening behind the bell housing to see it. Excessive wear on the fork will prevent it from fully releasing the clutch.

When I got my tractor, the clutch rod was bent and the lever had been welded to the end of the shaft. Clutch didn't quite want to release fully even after straightening the rod and adjusting it to the maximum throw possible.

When I removed it, I found the lever was not square to the shifter fork, so it was not rotating the shaft far enough when the pedal was depressed. I had to reposition it a few degrees and re-weld it.

Not the best picture, but may help visualize what I am trying to describe:

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

We are replacing the clutch on a B6001E which is supposed to be the same as a B6100E. The problem we are having is the release bearing appears to be roughly 1/4" too short to push the clutch fingers in enough to release it.

When you look through the starter hole with an inspection mirror there is about a 1/4" of travel from the beginning of movement until it reaches the clutch. The bearing is 15mm thick (+-) which looking at other sources seems to be correct. That leaves the clutch its self being too short. I haven't measured it but but I believe that it is by the book the correct clutch for a B6100E.

The reason I believe this is we got the tractor a couple of years ago with clutch issues (would not disengage completely). We took it apart and found the pilot bearing gone and damage to the crank and trans shaft.

I traded some stuff and got those parts repaired by a Youtuber that does machine work. so now we are putting it back together and realizing that we have the same problem with releasing as the last clutch which is exactly the same as the one we put in and still in good shape.

Any of you guys have experience with a B6001E clutch or know a JDM source for parts?

It is the same clutch parts as the b6100.
It sounds like something in the linkage is not right.

Put up 5 posts then post some picture of what you have going on.

Oh and check the direction of the clutch fork, if it's in backwards that really messes with the dimensions.

 

[Jonathan DeWitt]

Thanks for the input. As it turned out we vastly underestimated the drag of the drive-line when we were testing to see if the clutch was disengaged. It was disengaged the entire time but the tractor was in low range so it felt like it was locked up. When we discovered it was in low range we shifted it to high and it still didn't feel quite right but when we depressed the clutch pedal and turned the crank on the front of the engine it was free.

The engine reassembly from the tear down to get the crank repaired was completed today. The engine (after bleeding air from the injectors) started and ran fine. I depressed the clutch, put the tractor in reverse and let out the clutch and it worked fine.

Again thanks for the input. This the 1st tractor I have worked on or used so I was completely unfamiliar with how it should feel or function.