New to me B7100 won’t move

[eserv]

I can feel it click into low and high when I move the lever, unless something on the shift fork broke. I replaced the HST filter on top as well. Good amount of silver and goldish colored material in case where the strainers sat. Can HST material get into the main case? Or would it end up in the filter. Super UDT from local Kubota dealer

It shouldn't be possible to push the tractor if the range selector is engaged without great effort. either the range selector is not going into gear or something else is disconnected in the drive train. even if the clutch didn't exist the hydrostat would hold the tractor. I did have a B1700 many moons ago that the gear on the back of the hydrostat had slipped off of ( It is held there with a snap ring) ad it had no drive and could be pushed when the range lever was engaged. It is possible you could have the same problem. Even if the hydro had failed the tractor still shouldn't be easy to push.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It shouldn't be possible to push the tractor if the range selector is engaged without great effort. either the range selector is not going into gear or something else is disconnected in the drive train. even if the clutch didn't exist the hydrostat would hold the tractor. I did have a B1700 many moons ago that the gear on the back of the hydrostat had slipped off of ( It is held there with a snap ring) ad it had no drive and could be pushed when the range lever was engaged. It is possible you could have the same problem. Even if the hydro had failed the tractor still shouldn't be easy to push.

You are exactly right! I forgot that detail.

 

[Lencho]

I think your instinct is right - it is time to pull the cover plate off the “range transmission”. This has the high/low and front wheel engagement gearing. The control levers for each are on the right side and there are 6 bolts on the top.
Of course I haven’t done this so get a WSM and take photos so we can all learn.

 

[torch]

WSM for that model is here.

 

[whitetiger]

I would think a decent machinist could fix a wallowed out hole for a lot less $$$ than that!

I am sure with enough time and money it could be repaired. They would have to build up and level both the case and motor valve block where they wore into each other. Then those wallowed out holes in each would have to be filled in and redrilled in the correct location to index the motor valve block. Seems like a lot of money and labor for something that may or may not work.

Who is going to warranty the repair, the Tech or the machinist?

Two of the three units are being parted out, the third customer is looking for a used transnsmission.

 

[torch]

I haven't seen or dealt with that, so maybe there's more to it than I thought. But fixing wallowed out holes and similar problems in antique machinery is something I do regularly in my little home machine shop as a hobby. It just doesn't sound like a $10K problem to me.

 

[Nemx735]

so I’m getting ready to split the tractor or atleast pull it partially apart because the I guess you could call it the bellhousing? The formed metal housing which the HST is inside off. Is blocking the front two bolts to take the top cover for the range transmission off. It looks like it has two big bolts on either side and two nuts on the top which go to studs on the cover for the range transmission. It’s hard to really see on the WSM what part of the linkage could be the issue since they are so old and the pictures aren’t super clear. So I’m hoping I don’t have to remove everything like I’m fully splitting the tractor I would love to just be able to pull it apart just enough to access the bolts to remove the cover. Going to need to unbolt the rear of the loader frame underneath,suction’s lines, and a couple linkages for brakes. Also the front driveshaft I think and maybe the input for the HST from the clutch.

 

[Lencho]

Torch linked the actual Kubota WSM. Much better than the one I have.

 

[Nemx735]

So I got the thing apart enough today, heres what I found.

(Bad pic links removed look at future post for pics)

So the Fork is snapped, gears still slide nice into low and high range by hand. So good news is thats the issue and the Hydronic trans is good! So going to order the stuff Monday. Just need to make sure I order everything I need. Looks like kubota shows a updated PN for the fork I wonder if this was found to be a part that had a lot of issues so new ones stronger? Anyways so far I have the PN for the fork/top cover gasket/ball and spring for the shaft. Anything else I should do while I have it open?

Looks like the shaft for the shift fork needs to come out the back of the trans so thats a bummer that ill have to take that off.

Heres a couple shots of the tractor from before I took it apart.

(Bad pic links removed look at future post for pics)

I removed the front lights and rear amber lights previous owner installed as they draw too much power and work pretty poorly. Going to replace with some led lights that draw way less. Also since the one front lights are missing sockets and the lens are shot instead Ill just replace with some led lights mounted in the original spots.

Have most of the orange tins off. Going to paint them as well. Nothing crazy but will do a nice rattle can job to freshen the tractor up. Also bought the blue paint for the engine and trans.

Thinking a new aftermarket seat (stock metal seat pans all cracked).

New tires. Fronts are dry rot on inside and pretty bald. Tears are ok but are a weird size that isnt oem. Looks to be 8-R15 ?

(Bad pic links removed look at future post for pics)

Hard to read I know sorry.


And last but not least. I was thinking of ordering from messicks or a kubota dealer. Def wanted to run numbers by a dealer to double check if I need anything else

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your front tires are Trailer tires, common size for the front of the B7100's.
And your rear tires are LT (light truck) tires, that's why the odd size.

I have LT tires on my B7100 too they work great!

 

[torch]

Your images are currently being blocked by photobucket (honestly, I don't know why anyone uses them anymore!) so I can't see them any more. But if the size works out right to suit your rears, I found the ATV tires shown in this thread to be a great option in a turf-like tread pattern.

(and no, the images are not hosted on PB so yes, you will be able to view them now and in the future.)

 

[Nemx735]

Of course they don***8217;t work now, they worked fine for a day. Guess photobucket is being deleted off my phone. https://i.imgur.com/6tgOmJI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I8LHVXO.png
https://i.imgur.com/mvA099v.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Y4rtnkI.jpg

 

[torch]

Of course they don***8217;t work now, they worked fine for a day. Guess photobucket is being deleted off my phone.

Ok! Ok! I can certainly see those ones! If I scroll the screen far enough! <lol>

Wolfman is right, those rear tires are automotive tires. Once you get the tractor driving again, I suggest you check the rolling circumference of them. With the tractor in 2wd and it's full weight on the tire, mark both tire and the ground. Roll the tractor forward until the tire has made exactly one complete revolution, mark the ground again and measure the distance between the original mark and the new. The original turf tires would have had a rolling circumference of 86 inches.

In 2wd, it doesn't matter. Anything that will fit on the rim without rubbing on something is fine. But in 4wd it is important that the smaller diameter front wheels travel approximately (within 3%) the same distance as the larger diameter rear wheels to avoid excessive strain, wear and tear on the drive system. Kubota calculated the gear ratio between the front and rear axles with specific tires in mind. In the case of the B7100, the inter-axle ratio is 1.464 -- ie: the front wheels rotate 1.464 times for every revolution of the rear wheels (when driving straight, obviously that changes when the differentials kick in during cornering).

If your tires are significantly different, then I suggest you avoid use of 4wd, reserving it only for times when it is really needed, like if you are stuck in loose soil.

Personally, I keep mine in 2wd when operating on the road or any other packed surface even though my tires are in spec because the actual rolling circumference varies with wear and load and tire pressure and anything else that can affect the sidewall stiffness. For example, the Carlisle Multi Trac C/S tire in the same 29x12.5-15 size as the original Firestone OEM tires (RC 86") are listed by Carlisle as having a 90.2" RC. The difference could be the actual diameter, the sidewall construction, the air pressure or the load each particular manufacturer happened to use when they rated their own tire.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OMG, You have to resize your photos I use a 55" computer monitor and they are 10 times too big!

Changed photo's to selectable links, much better.

 

[Nemx735]

Now the question is how much do I need to take apart to get this damn shift fork out. It looks like the shaft for it comes out the rear side so I think I’ll have to split the range transmission from the diff. Unless the hole goes through to the diff

 

[Nemx735]

Parts have been ordered from messicks as well as some more super udt2

 

[Nemx735]

Well first update, tractor is all fixed up lots of new parts. The shift fork was the issue. Working on finishing the paint on the loader frame and rear wheels other then that it’s good to go!

https://imgur.com/gallery/B3vc9kM

 

[Lencho]

Looks great! Did you install the led headlamps? What are they and how did you mount them?

 

[Nemx735]

Looks great! Did you install the led headlamps? What are they and how did you mount them?

Yes they are just 4” round LED lights from eBay. They are 27w and don’t draw much which is why I picked them. Plenty of light and tons better then the oem lights. They are mounted through the side of the hood where I already had holes from the other lights previous owner put on it.

 

[Alexl010]

Hey Nemx I hope you are still around on the forum. I just picked up myself a B7100 with what I think is the exact same issue you had. Could you give a little more detail on how you got to replacing that broken fork? I’m seeing the same thing you did, 2 bolts shrouded by the case that look like a pain I’m the ass to get to. Any words of wisdom from your experience would be appreciated. Thanks!