Boy do I feel stupid.....

[Stomper]

My 50 hour service is up on my L2501 so I read the manual quickly to see what had to be done. Being 6 hours away from a kubota dealer, I had to order all the filters and oil and get it shipped to me, shipping for the three filters (engine, hydraulic, HST) and 23 liters of hydraulic oil and a jug of engine oil was $80. $350 for the material and shipping. Today I did the maintenance. I looked at the manual again and saw that I only had to change the HST filter and the hydraulic filter NOT the hydraulic/transmission oil. That gets changed in the 200 hour service. So I thought I could save the 23 liter pail of the oil for the 200 hour service and just top up with the couple 5 liter jugs I had. long story short, being this is the first time I have done a service on a tractor, I assumed that because the manual states that only the filters get changed in the 50 hour service, that not much oil would drain through the filter outlet. I was wrong. I was waiting for the oil to stop flowing to put on the new filters and decided to eventually put it them on because there seemed to be lots of oil draining. To get the oil level back up to the proper level it took about 13 liters of oil because I let too much oil drain initially. It seemed strange to change the filters and not the oil but I was just following what the manual said. If I would have know that much oil was drained I would have just changed the complete oil and be done with it. Oh well, live and learn i guess.

 

[Heli8ight]

I did something very similar.

 

[Bulldog]

If you would have pulled one of the lower drain plugs and seen how much metal comes out you would really wish you had changed the fluid. On a sunny day it looks like metal flake paint hitting the pan. No way I'll ever wait till 200 hrs to change one of mine I don't care what the manual says.

 

[Missouribound]

You did the right thing, no reason to feel stupid. All of the break in fluids need to be changed at that time. The manual doesn't "require" it but any dealer of credibility would change those fluids. I did at 50 hours and it was amazing how much crap you get in just 50 hours. All you did was insure continued good service from your machine. What's stupid about that?
I'm just wondering why it cost you so much? My 50 hour fluids and filters cost me about $150. I have a B2320.....can't imagine too big a difference between those models.

 

[Bulldog]

I did at 50 hours and it was amazing how much crap you get in just 50 hours. All you did was insure continued good service from your machine. What's stupid about that?

I agree with you about changing at 50 hrs, it's nasty stuff. But read the post real close.

He didn't change the fluid, just the filter and what fluid came out doing that. All the crap is still in there.

 

[Stomper]

You did the right thing, no reason to feel stupid. All of the break in fluids need to be changed at that time. The manual doesn't "require" it but any dealer of credibility would change those fluids. I did at 50 hours and it was amazing how much crap you get in just 50 hours. All you did was insure continued good service from your machine. What's stupid about that?
I'm just wondering why it cost you so much? My 50 hour fluids and filters cost me about $150. I have a B2320.....can't imagine too big a difference between those models.

Well the way things worked out I changed all the filters and only just over half the hydraulic oil.

23 liter pail of hydraulic oil $100
2- 5 liter jug of engine oil $100 it Takes just over 5 liters and they didn't sell 1 liter jugs so I had to buy two 5 liters
engine oil filter $40
hydraulic filter $40
transmission oil filter $15
shipping $80
I guess I lied it came out to $375

Thats from the cheapest dealer I could find. The hydraulic oil from the other dealers was $120 for 23 liters
Good ole Canadian prices.

 

[Stomper]

I agree with you about changing at 50 hrs, it's nasty stuff. But read the post real close.

He didn't change the fluid, just the filter and what fluid came out doing that. All the crap is still in there.

So if thats the case why would kubota not recommend changing it. Seems like pretty crappy maintenance advice from them. I did notice some metal filings in the oil filter. Maybe Ill just cut my losses on the new stuff I just put in ($80 worth) and change the whole works. I mhavent drove the tractor yet so the filters should still be good.
Makes me mad. Pretty crappy on kubota's part

 

[Bulldog]

First pic is from my M9000 manual, second is from my L3000. Both list changing trans fluid, filters and front axle fluid @50hrs.

Don't know why Kubota has changed this but I'll never run a new one past 50hrs without the service being done. I've bought 3 new ones and they all were very nasty @50.

It sux to waste the new fluid but it could be worse. It takes 30 gallons to service those 2 I mentioned.

 

[jryser]

If you would have pulled one of the lower drain plugs and seen how much metal comes out you would really wish you had changed the fluid. On a sunny day it looks like metal flake paint hitting the pan. No way I'll ever wait till 200 hrs to change one of mine I don't care what the manual says.

Thank u. Some were ridiculing me for asking for ALL fluids to be changed at the 50!


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[Lizlec]

So the fluid is FINE, that is the reason for the filter is to CATCH all the junk in the fluid. Why waste (and yes, it is a waste) to change good oil at 50 hours when it's perfectly fine after it runs through the filter. If you don't trust your filters, YOU NEED TO CHANGE IT EVERY 50 hours. {zipping up the flame retarded (pun intended) suit}

Exact ... seriously who's better than the manufacturer to know the required maintenance. The dealer want to make $ so for sure he will "recommend" to change the hydraulic fluids ... easy money.

The metal residues in the hydraulic oil pan won't hurt anything because oil is pumped through the filter before being sent to hydraulic circuit ... it's not a "splash" lubrication like engine oil, which is required to be changes at first 50 hrs by the way exactly because in this case the residues can hurt ...

 

[jajiu]

In my opinion, changing the filters w/o changing the oil is like changing your underwear without taking a shower. On my car, truck and my tractor, I always change the oil with the filter. Clean is better all around. Cheap insurance.

 

[D2Cat]

In my opinion, changing the filters w/o changing the oil is like changing your underwear without taking a shower. On my car, truck and my tractor, I always change the oil with the filter. Clean is better all around. Cheap insurance.

I think it would be more like "taking a shower without changing your underwear"!

 

[Stomper]

Thanks for all the info guys. Some very good points here on both parts but just to ease my mind I will drain and replace the oil. That way I'm not second guessing my decision at all. Trust me I've wasted money in worse ways

 

[85Hokie]

I think it would be more like "taking a shower without changing your underwear"!

So a oil filter has a bypass valve when it gets clogged......

where the hell is the underwear bypass valve?

 

[D2Cat]

So a oil filter has a bypass valve when it gets clogged......

where the hell is the underwear bypass valve?

You want a diagram?

 

[Stomper]

So a oil filter has a bypass valve when it gets clogged......

where the hell is the underwear bypass valve?

The elastic around the leg holes

 

[Bulldog]

Thank u. Some were ridiculing me for asking for ALL fluids to be changed at the 50!


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Some people don't, won't or care to know better. I bet they're the same type that believe any grease is better than no grease, oil is oil, filters are filters and synthetic lubricants are no better than water.

Every piece of new equipment I've ever got required a full service @50hrs. During that period is when everything is meshing up and getting into it's groove so to speak. I can't understand people getting bent out of shape because someone wanting to take the best care of their tractor.

I'm going to stop, I've rewrote this 3 times already trying to be nice. Personally I think you're doing to right thing by changing your fluid @50. I don't think it's a waste at all. It's the first step for a long trouble free life for a new tractor. I wouldn't worry about the maintenance haters to much,

You can't fix stupid, even with duct tape.

 

[85Hokie]

You can't fix stupid, even with duct tape.

Could you fix 'em with a retroactive vasectomy?

I'm gonna go out on a limb.....and this is just a "guess" as to why the oil in newer machines are not getting oil changed at 50.....

they are using S-UDT2 - a full synthetic, and thus it IS NOT breaking down as fast as the old.....

the filter in theory is supposed to clean the oil, take out all the bad stuff, the other filters are to collect the large metal shavings too....

and with the expense of the "newer" oils .....maybe Kubota is saying - no need to spend the $$$$ when the filters will take the bad stuff out .....

this is a "theory"

but.......I like the little extra insurance.....and NO I do NOT change my engine oil on my car(s) at 3,000 miles..... Matter of FACT - no car manufacturer CALLS for oil change @ 3,000........Honda and Subaru both say 7,000 - 7,500......

we'll save that for another day!

 

[Bulldog]

85Hokie, I'd say that's a good theory. I'd be willing to bet that even with better fluid they still have plenty of trash @50hrs though. Personally I'll not chance it if I ever buy another new one. I can understand the cost for sure, it takes $1200 in hyd fluid just for my tractors but I do it anyway.

It just bugs me when people talk bad about a owner for taking care of his equipment.

If they want to dog on someone they should talk down on the owner that neglects their equipment instead.

 

[Stomper]

Some people don't, won't or care to know better. I bet they're the same type that believe any grease is better than no grease, oil is oil, filters are filters and synthetic lubricants are no better than water.

Every piece of new equipment I've ever got required a full service @50hrs. During that period is when everything is meshing up and getting into it's groove so to speak. I can't understand people getting bent out of shape because someone wanting to take the best care of their tractor.

I'm going to stop, I've rewrote this 3 times already trying to be nice. Personally I think you're doing to right thing by changing your fluid @50. I don't think it's a waste at all. It's the first step for a long trouble free life for a new tractor. I wouldn't worry about the maintenance haters to much,

You can't fix stupid, even with duct tape.

Maybe before you start shooting me down you should actually take a look at the L2501 manual. I was following the manufacture's instructions.
I come here asking some advice in hopes of helping some others that may have the same issues. Not to be made a fool of. I'm done on this topic

All that have helped with constructive criticizm and just not criticizm, thank you for your help