I sent you a manual for a M95-125X hope you got it ! Max 33MB by email so I had to pick one under that.
Need help installing heater
- Thread starter keithcoady
- Start date
Yes all true. The special Tee's to evenly distribute the hot water flow were called mono flow Tee's but each of those systems had its fill pressure maintained by a pressure regulating valve connected into domestic water supply and further, each had an expansion tank. Old ones had a galvanized tank that would water log, newer ones had diaphragm tanks. Sometimes the tank would be located on the roof of the building in a penthouse so it was always higher than any rad and any filling of the system was done in the penthouse.
From a bible on hydronic system design:
Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV): Mentioned above as part of the Make Up Water assembly, the PRV must be set to a pressure that ensures 5-psig of positive pressure at the top of the system. This keeps the system full water,
It is not the rising of less dense hot water that is the important fact but rather the system must be kept full of water (fill pressure) for the rising water to have a path to follow.
If there is a way to do this in tractors etc, I welcome an explanation that I can understand.
Dave
Just the fact that the system is sealed and has a rad cap makes it work. If it had a leak up at the top that allowed air into the heater circuit it would certainly air-lock.
The hoses to the heater, (if they are installed correctly!) are from just below the thermostat and return before the water pump so the water pump is actually pumping water through the heater core. If you just remove the thermostat bypass hose and connect in there you will be depending on thermosyphon and it probably won't work! At least it won't work as well as it could. The flow should enter the heater core near the top if possible so the water cools as it drops through the core.
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Lets try this way for my point. Perhaps it will convince you perhaps not.
You install the heater on the roof of your cab and fill the rad.
Once the fluid level is at the neck of the rad how do you add more?
The heater on the cab roof has no fluid in it to start.
If you in effect moved the rad cap to the roof of the cab and filled the system from that elevation it would work.
This is the physical fact I need an explanation for that is based upon science and physics.
Re the WSM, why not just extract the section or pages that show what you want me to see rather than the entire WSM. Your email has not arrived.
Dave
You often do have to open the return hose and run the engine to get the water pump to purge the air out. then reconnect it and the system is full of water and will remain so as long as there is no leak.
I think the part that you are missing is that the water pump is actually pushing the water through the heater core
You said it was now in your "sent" box in my time zone at 10:37.
It is now 3 am or about 3.5 hours later and no sign of it.
Jumpshare is a great way to send large files to someone.
Free account.
You upload to their site what document you want to share.
Using their site, you send an email to my email address
I receive a link to download the file.
I used it twice last evening to send two 44 meg + WSM's
No problem
Dave
Fyi
10 hours and still waiting for your email and WSM
Dave
david (dot)petepiece (AT)sympatico(dot)ca
10 hours and still waiting for your email and WSM
Dave
david (dot)petepiece (AT)sympatico(dot)ca
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Dave_eng,
If you're only looking for a picture of the heater core in the roof, a WSM is not needed. Simply go to Kubota's illustrated parts list and you can see the some detail. If your need is great, the WSM is obviously the way to go.
With any luck this link will take you there. http://kpadweb.kubota.co.jp/kpad2/PartsInfo.do?bookCd=100K5069&funcCd=&figNo=&himban=&dispType=0
If you're only looking for a picture of the heater core in the roof, a WSM is not needed. Simply go to Kubota's illustrated parts list and you can see the some detail. If your need is great, the WSM is obviously the way to go.
With any luck this link will take you there. http://kpadweb.kubota.co.jp/kpad2/PartsInfo.do?bookCd=100K5069&funcCd=&figNo=&himban=&dispType=0
North Idaho Wolfman
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Dave, please do not put you email on here in the normal form, as it attracts Spammers, Thanks!
Also If you're having an issue getting something from another member it's best to do it through a PM.
What I am asking for is an explanation, perhaps in the WSM, of how the system with a heater core above the top of the radiator is filled.
I don't doubt that it is in the ceiling of the cab. The explanations of how the fluid is filled and then flows are escaping my knowledge of engineering and physics so clearly this is an opportunity for me to learn which I welcome.
Dave
Sorry NIW, I did not realize the spammer problems my actions created for the forum.Dave, please do not put you email on here in the normal form, as it attracts Spammers, Thanks!
Also If you're having an issue getting something from another member it's best to do it through a PM.
I thought the only grief from doing this would be mine alone.
Dave
The Jumpshare transmission of the WSM has worked and I am now learning that not all Kubota's have glow plugs which I find interesting.
I will be reading through the pages and thank you for sending them.
I want to apologize to you as I now realize I was getting grumpy. I have serious pain problems but they should not be affecting my forum postings.
Dave
No problem! Glad you got the manual. I'm just getting over 2 weeks of the flu so my patience is a little thin too!
kubotasam
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Apparently I gave the OP some not so great advice? I thought that was the standard for installing heaters. How do you make the connections to the points you described?
Finally I know the answer I was seeking about ceiling mounted heaters thanks to the WSM from eserv.
The heater system only needs one more liter of coolant to fill completely than a unit without a heater.
The system is filled to the top of the rad. The engine is run until warm and the recovery tank is filled up.
When the engine cools down and the system pressure drops, the needed one liter of coolant for the heater is sucked in from the recovery tank.
Kubota must have a special procedure on the assembly line perhaps by having the heater core and hoses pre filled before installation because they would not be running the engine until warm and letting it cool down to be certain the system was completely filled.
I also note that the heater hoses run from the engine to the cab ceiling with no steel lines.
Here is the section from the WSM.
A great learning experience for me. Thank you.
Dave
The heater system only needs one more liter of coolant to fill completely than a unit without a heater.
The system is filled to the top of the rad. The engine is run until warm and the recovery tank is filled up.
When the engine cools down and the system pressure drops, the needed one liter of coolant for the heater is sucked in from the recovery tank.
Kubota must have a special procedure on the assembly line perhaps by having the heater core and hoses pre filled before installation because they would not be running the engine until warm and letting it cool down to be certain the system was completely filled.
I also note that the heater hoses run from the engine to the cab ceiling with no steel lines.
Here is the section from the WSM.
A great learning experience for me. Thank you.
Dave
Your advice to connect the heater in the small bypass is how mine is connected. No problem with water flow. It has worked wonderfully since the installation 5 years ago. The hoses I originally used, and now the copper pipes, get too hot too touch for more than a brief tap. I can be comfortable in the cab with no jacket in the coldest weather. My heater core is located with the top of it roughly at the bottom of my windshield. There's no reason to monkey around with the radiator hoses when you can do it via 5/8" lines.