My old G1900 wont crank over , The battery is charged , glow plug and lights work ok . In ran it 4 hrs today and after parking it wont turn over . PTO is off and the parking break engaged. Any ideas
1992 G1900 starter wont turn
- Thread starter vinnyfish1
- Start date
Make sure wires are connected on starter solenoid first.
Could possibly be one of those two switches. Brake or Pto. Check to see if they are unplugged or damaged, if not then for test purposes only use a jumper to see if switch is gone bad.
NOTE: To avoid personal injury when bypassing the safety switches start test should be done from driver seat.
Good Luck
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Generally there is a seat switch on most mowers, whether it's wired to inhibit starting or wired to shut the engine down if no one is in the seat when the pto is engaged I'm not sure. Worth a check
Hi, vinnyfish1. Good advice already offered. If it turns out not to be safety switches, you might have a problem with the key switch and/or wiring to the starter. G1800 and G1900 are notorious for this problem. You can install a "start switch" that operates independent of the key. Also, there are some helpful threads on here and TBN on wiring in a relay that addresses the issue of low voltage being delivered to the starter. That worked like magic on my G1900 with the same symptom you describe. Could be several things, but if you decide it's low voltage getting to the starter, I'd give it try! Takes 10 minutes.
Here's a link to a good thread detailing the fix. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/350769-starter-click-dead-try-tbn.html
Battery dead? Whats the battery voltage both unloaded and loaded (turn key to start and check battery voltage)?
PTO and btake switches on these (if original) are garbage. I'd start there. You need a test light to check 'em. If those are ok, check key switch. If key switch is good, check the wiring, and lastly check to see if the starter trigger wire is getting +12v. If it is, and no start, starter is dead.
seat switch has zero affect on starting, at least on this particular mower. It simply shuts the engine off if operator falls off while the PTO is on.
PTO and btake switches on these (if original) are garbage. I'd start there. You need a test light to check 'em. If those are ok, check key switch. If key switch is good, check the wiring, and lastly check to see if the starter trigger wire is getting +12v. If it is, and no start, starter is dead.
seat switch has zero affect on starting, at least on this particular mower. It simply shuts the engine off if operator falls off while the PTO is on.
Update , I found on cold start I had good voltage at the starter but after I ran it for an hour or so the voltage at the starter would drop to around 11 volts but still be 12.5 at the battery ... I inspected the battery cables I found the lead on cable ends to be dark in color almost black . Had to file quite a bit before they shined up . That did the trick so I bought new set of cables from Kubota and life is good.. Thanks for all the input it helped me get on the right track
If going the relay route, buy a relay with a socket so you don't have the bare metal wire terminals.
Dave
Or just get the JD relay kit, which requires NO splicing. It's a bolt-on and plug-in deal and done. Little more expensive, BUT by time you figure in the cost of the relay, a socket, and then 2 or 3 packs of connectors, you're not that far off of the JD kit, and that's not including the time lost by doing all the wiring where the JD kit goes right on.
Kubota's got a kit too but it's like $100. Exactly the same as the JD kit with different color wires and a big K on the package.
JD Part number used to be AM107421, may have changed since then, but you can give JD that number and they can enter it, and it will come up with either a new number or the part.
Kubota's got a kit too but it's like $100. Exactly the same as the JD kit with different color wires and a big K on the package.
JD Part number used to be AM107421, may have changed since then, but you can give JD that number and they can enter it, and it will come up with either a new number or the part.
My g1900 had a similar problem. When I turned the key, it would click and purr but it would not spin the starter without first putting a battery charger on it for 15-20 minutes to get things warmed up. The battery tested fine. A dealer took two cracks at fixing it, with no success (except for their bank account). After reading posts on several forums, it appeared the problem was a voltage drop caused by tired wiring.
I got the above-mentioned John Deere low voltage relay for about $38 on line. It took less than 15 minutes to get it installed. After that, the starter turns over briskly and it starts immediately, without the need to put it on a charger.
You can buy similar low voltage relays in auto parts stores or on line for less money, but I thought I'd stick with a part with a proven track record. Compared to what I spent at the dealer with no success, this was a bargain.
I got the above-mentioned John Deere low voltage relay for about $38 on line. It took less than 15 minutes to get it installed. After that, the starter turns over briskly and it starts immediately, without the need to put it on a charger.
You can buy similar low voltage relays in auto parts stores or on line for less money, but I thought I'd stick with a part with a proven track record. Compared to what I spent at the dealer with no success, this was a bargain.
Could you post photos of the fix? I***8217;m not seeing anything in the older links.
I wonder if this fix would work on my older G***8217;s? Later models do seem a bit more complex.
It also works on the old style "big" starters; but they aren't as sensitive to low voltage as the later style Denso style starters are. The old "big" starters are a direct drive and crank the engine over a LOT faster than the Denso's do, BUT the Denso's last forever and require a LOT less amperage to start the engine; therefore making it easier to crank a cold diesel or one with a low battery.