Tips on removing 3-Pt attachments

[pgmrdan]

Quick hitch is not the silver bullet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TPOWlzUeV0

I can't find Tractor Mike's video on it at the moment but several of you have hit on an excellent way to help out when hooking up 3-point implements: a lever.

Mike was amazed he hadn't known about them before. I'm amazed I didn't run up to a big box store and buy a long pry bar as soon as I first saw the video.

Update: Found it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6FLBUjZt_0

 

[Caboose]

I haven't had too much problem getting the actual 3-point hitch connections made - and I do not have a quick hitch (it's on the list). However, the part that makes me swear up a storm is sometimes getting the PTO hooked up. The awkward positioning and the pulling of the collar at the same time you are pushing the PTO onto the tractor shaft just doesn't go easily at times.

One tip that I have found helps sometimes when hooking up the PTO is to hook the shaft to the tractor first - then hook up to the implement side. Just seems to be easier to manipulate the shaft into the confined space of the tractor side when it's not connected to the implement. Typically, the implement side is a little more wide open and easier to get a better grip/leverage.

Dean

 

[pgmrdan]

I've had my Ford 3000 for about 11 years now. I hesitate to switch implements at times. It's always a challenge but also it's always do-able. I get 'er done but that pry bar idea from Tractor Mike will certainly help.

Right now I need to take off my rotary mower and hook up my sickle bar mower. Removal is much easier than attaching but it's also more dangerous attaching the sickle bar mower, IMHO, with those teeth exposed.

 

[Stmar]

We have lots of wood pallets laying around from our wood pellets. When changing implements I put the blade on one of those and it does give a bit more leeway moving back and forth. My implements that I don't use that often are usually on wood blocks, as long as they are not on the ground it makes it easier. When I first got my tractor and the guy showed me the extra couple of inches extension on the 3pt lift arms I had my doubts but I use it all the time. Just a bit helps when dealing with heavy iron.

 

[Lil Foot]

I like plastic pallets for parking implements. The last much longer than wood, and have much less stiction than wood. They are also a lot more forgiving than wood if you happen to drop something heavy on them, or back over a corner; stuff like that. (not that I would know anything about those things)
The only other thing I can add is that a quick zap with a dry silicone lube spray on pins, ball joints, lynch pins, and such will often ease things.

 

[pak]

Re: Tips on how to removing 3-Pt attachments

"Get a "blah blah", is much like the tip:

" Hire someone to do it"

Often, one looks for good ideas to go along with what they have.

Your recommendation is like saying "you don't need a bucket for your loader, you have a shovel"

I have a tractor and until I got a quick hitch I did not want to deal with the 3 pt. It was a double barreled PITA. Now it is no big deal. I bought a Pat's.

 

[twomany]

Re: Tips on how to removing 3-Pt attachments

Your recommendation is like saying "you don't need a bucket for your loader, you have a shovel"

I have a tractor and until I got a quick hitch I did not want to deal with the 3 pt. It was a double barreled PITA. Now it is no big deal. I bought a Pat's.

I've got Pat's Easy Hitch on one of my tractors too.
Do you have any tips for making the hook ups easier?
There is always a better way!

Sometimes I think I should have a tape measure in the tool box to set the width. BEFORE i back the tractor up ;-)

 

[Russell King]

A few additional hints I can give:
Do all of this fairly close to the implement attachment location.
Lower the lift arms all the way.
Disconnect the check chains or loosen them up.
Focus on one lower lift point and get the tractor lower arm ball socket as close as you can to alignment.
Turn tractor off and put in neutral and leave brake off (assuming fairly level location).
Install PTO shaft to tractor now if you can.
Lift arm to align with the implement pin, install if you can. If not, grab the rear tire (R1 tires make this easy-don't know about turf tires) and move tractor to get ball onto pin. If you can get it started a little bit then you can probably get it pushed/hammered on. Put in lynch pin.
If the other arm is close to pin, install other arm. If not close you can try to manhandle the implement or use the tractor to gently pull or push the implement into a better position.
Repeat arm installation process on second arm.
Then install top link, level implement and set it up as required.

The bigger the tractor and implement the more difficult things are.

It usually is not that much trouble really. Remember to try to move the implement at points far away from the tractor to gain leverage advantage.


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[johnjk]

I think have some Tractor Mike binge watching in my future. Good tips.

 

[pak]

Re: Tips on how to removing 3-Pt attachments

I've got Pat's Easy Hitch on one of my tractors too.
Do you have any tips for making the hook ups easier?
There is always a better way!

Sometimes I think I should have a tape measure in the tool box to set the width. BEFORE i back the tractor up ;-)

Pat's does have an adjustable spreader for the arms. Your first post about sums up what is needed for easier hook ups. Make sure you drop on level ground. I drop on 2x4s. For me the toughest part is hooking up the PTO. not because it is complex, but usually the close quarters puts me in an awkward position. When I first got the tractor I thought that after many decades of 3pt one would think something better would have been designed by now.

 

[russell.still.5]

I agree with the advice to have everything on dollies. If that is not possible, then look into telescopic link ends and stabilizers. I have them, and they are almost as good as a quick hitch, and they fit ALL CAT 1 implements, not just the ones with the right dimensions. Just have to remember to push them back to lock them into place once attached.

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Telescopic bottom links are about the only way to hook up Cat 2 equipment. Most of it is too heavy to move with a pry bar. A long pry bar will do wonders on smaller Cat 1 equipment. Get close then move the equipment around so you can attach you bottom links.


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[Missouribound]

Here are my tips for using the 3 point and making the hook ups easier.
1. Always park your attachments on level ground.
2. If possible, adjust the equipment so all of the spacing for the lower arms is the same or as close as possible.
3. Use a dolly if you can..outside it's nearly impossible but in your shop or garage it is most useful.
4. If you can't use a dolly, practice backing up to the implement as squarely as you can.
5 If you have a pto the quick hitch often gets in the way more than it helps. Leave it off for those implements. (just my opinion). I can hook my mower up in about 2 minutes without the quick hitch. The quick hitch gets in the way when hooking up the mower and often restricts the movement of the mower when the grade changes quickly.
6. Leave a pry bar or maybe a 2 X 4 by each implement when you take it off. It beats carrying one around with you when you need to budge it just a little.

 

[johnjk]

I had better luck this past weekend with hooking things up. I had the front of the brush hog resting on a 6x6 which allowed me to slide it around using a pry bar and the rear wheel. This and some spray silicone in the swivels and on the pins made the task a lot easier. The box blade is on a pallet which allows me to move it, but I need a surface I can slid it around on. I may add metal sheet over the pallet to help with this.

Thanks again for all the tips

 

[Cottonwood]

Re: Tips on how to removing 3-Pt attachments

Dollies are the best if possible, and the newer stuff with the removable pin on the bottom two links to accept quick hitch makes non quick hitch a piece of cake. And stuff like the tiller and aerator rotate up and down. The idea to park in neutral, brake off is good. Most of the time an inch does it, as for pto splines, Never Sieze works good for me. But the bottom line, is if you don't get a good approach, swearing will soon follow. Lol

 

[eddie]

I have a bit of trouble with my 3 point hitch stuff but i keep it well off of the ground and use a short (6 FOOT) 2X4 to "muscle" it the last inch or so.

PS..... my toes are fine.

eddie

 

[eddie]

My snow blower is on a dolly but that is mainly to move it around in the shed. In the summer it takes up a lot of space.

( it is easy to put it on in the winter though) it is a front mount with a foot that fits into a quick attach shoe. just drive the tractor into the shoe flip a lever and hook up the hydraulics.


eddie

 

[johnjk]

I ended up getting a quick release from Harbor Freight. For the cost I'll give it a go and see how it does. Installation was a breeze. Including unboxing, maybe 15 minutes total. If it becomes a hassle, I can easily take it off.

I'm thinking about putting some level bubbles on the top and side to better see the angles with the attachments on.

 

[Benhameen]

The quick hitch is the only way to go in my opinion. You'll save yourself a lot of time and hassle if you add the top link like the one in the pic. The hook that mine came with didn't work for any of my implements, the "Y" on the other hand makes all of them work fine.

 

[johnjk]

I will have to remember that. Where did you purchase the "Y" ?

 

[bearbait]

My biggest mistake was only putting 7 foot doors in the garage instead of 8. Putting the subframe for the snowblower on the L3560 is a real pain in the butt not to mention connecting the shaft to the pto, I'm not sure how a bigger guy with bigger hands would be able to do it.