Backhoe Subframe Interferes with Leveling Link

[NF6X]

I have an L3301HST with a BH77 backhoe. When the 3-point hitch is lowered and the lower arms are spread apart to the normal operating position for my attachments, the bar through the middle of the leveling link bumps into the backhoe subframe, preventing the link from turning:

This causes a number of headaches when mounting attachments, or adjusting ones that are already mounted. Sometimes I can lift the arms up to avoid the interference, but that's not an option while adjusting the arms to get an attachment hooked up, or if I need to lower an attachment to take pressure off the link so it can be turned.

I'm considering adding rear hydraulics someday, so eventually I might eliminate the problem with a hydraulic leveling link. But for now, have any of y'all come up with good workarounds for this kind of problem?

Another related headache that I experienced is that when I mount my PD15 post hole digger, the lower arms don't spread far enough apart to mount it without using a hammer if the digger is even the tiniest bit out of the perfect position... which it always is, of course! I have the telescopic stabilizer option, but I wish that I also had those telescopic lower link ends that are offered on the Grand L60 series.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you think you have issues now, mounting a hydrauic side link on it will give you Zero to Minus clearance, they are much fatter than the stock link.

2 easy options:
Take the side link tube and off cut the lever pins off of it and have the pins rewelded on to an end.
Or:
Cut the pins off and have a nut welded on an end of the tube and use a wrench to adjust it.

 

[NF6X]

If you think you have issues now, mounting a hydrauic side link on it will give you Zero to Minus clearance, they are much fatter than the stock link.

Oh, that's good to know, and I didn't consider that. Thanks! I wasn't expecting a hydraulic side link to be that much larger. Maybe adding rear hydraulics wouldn't end up being that helpful after all. Well, I'll still want to be able to run a dump cylinder on a cement mixer, but maybe a hydraulic top-and-tilt wouldn't fit well on my backhoe-equipped tractor?

2 easy options:
Take the side link tube and off cut the lever pins off of it and have the pins rewelded on to an end.
Or:
Cut the pins off and have a nut welded on an end of the tube and use a wrench to adjust it.

I've been looking for an excuse to learn MIG welding anyway!

Do you think that this style of leveling box might make things better?

https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/hitch-kits/adjustable-leveling-box-3

I'm not positive about that specific leveling box fitting; it's one that was linked to in some other thread a while ago.

 

[D2Cat]

You could cut the pins off. Then in the exact same spot on the pin centerline put a punch mark and drill the remainder of the pin. Get a rod that fits in the hole you just drilled, and is loose enough to slide. Put a weld on each end so it doesn't come out.

No wrench required, easy to turn, save $116.

 

[NF6X]

I like that, D2Cat. Sounds easy. I might even be able to use a longer and/or larger diameter pin once it can slide out of the way of obstructions.

 

[D2Cat]

A lot of the older adjustable links, including top links, had that type of pin. Gives you more leverage also because you can pull the pin all the way to one side.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The link you put up for the side link would work well if it's the right size ends.

One issue with the pin in the side link is that at some point it's going to to hit the bracket and cause the three point to hang up.

 

[NF6X]

One issue with the pin in the side link is that at some point it's going to to hit the bracket and cause the three point to hang up.

Nah, it won't hit the bracket. It'll hit the loop of hydraulic hose for the backhoe.

 

[D2Cat]

You should be able to rotate the sliding pin to clear all hoses and iron and use the lock nut to keep it there.