blower/blade usage

[NEPA Guy]

Im looking for any quick tips or experiences anyone could share with using the snowblower and the snowblade.

Yesterday, due to the heavy snow, my chute kept getting jammed. a royal pita, I cleared it with a pipe and had to back it up and lift the blower to eat a few pile ups happening in front of the box. I switched to my blade for the first time. I was happy with my decision to purchase it, as it saved me from getting snowed in.

I've got the snowblower usage down pat (for the most part) but my only experience with using a snowplow was the one I had hooked up to my atv. What speed is recommended? One guy told me I should try to go as fast as I could to throw the snow. I put the 2650 in H (something I normally don't like to do as it wobbles quite a bit) and went as fast as I could. I squealed up and down the road and it seemed to do a decent job but found it hard to control the machine in float.

I initially put it in L, then M, and it worked, but didn't push the pile too far and I had to make multiple passes to slowly push the snow to the side of the road.
It took me another hour on top of my regular time to clear the road. I would have to say that using the snowblower is preferable over the blade any day. I tore the hell out of my lawn in a few spots from losing control.

I also removed the two skid shoes. The book said to use them but I didn't like the height setting, and it left a 1/4 inch of snow after my first test pass. I could adjust it to bring it closer to the ground to achieve the desired height but I was fighting the clock so I just took em off. The blade sat well, but I did tear up a few chunks of crack filler on the asphalt. Is it recommended to use them?

What would you guys do?

 

[chim]

For me it's a matter of experimenting. Since building here in '89 I've been using front and rear blades and in recent years a rear blower. It seems as though each snowfall has its own properties. They range from slushy to light powder. Some start when it's warmer and the bottom is very high moisture content while being fluffy on top. How the blade and blower perform varies at least a little with each snow.

 

[skeets]

MHO is on the blower would be to shoot some spray wax or WD 40 or cheap silly cone from wally world in the chute that will help, and as far as the blade goes, you found out why they say to leave the shoes on,,,
Now what you might be interested in doing is,,, if you have a read blade put it on backwards and drop it and using the SB blow off remember to keep the RPMs up on it, and as you blow the rear blade will drag the left over snow off.. But yeah leave the feet on unless you have a PERFECTLY SMOOTH surface other wise you will tear chunks out of it but you already found that out

 

[gulfmp]

And make sure you remove that stupid fork from the chute. I took mine off and eliminated 95% of my clogs.

The fork is just another answer to someone's lawsuit that Kubota lawyers now make them install

 

[bearskinner]

I wish I had a snowblower to see the difference, but I have the hydro blade for my BX, and it works great. On the 3/8 mile gravel driveway, I set the RPM To 3000 and go high 4x4 starting in the middle than going out with the blade angled till I've pushed the road clear to the ditches.
Anywhere over lawn is a whole different story! I go slow and deliberate to try and save as much grass as possible! I am constantly amazed at what this little BX will do and push.
One thing for sure, the BX will push twice as much with nothing ( no weight) on the back. It helps keep the nose down and pushing in a straight line

 

[NEPA Guy]

And make sure you remove that stupid fork from the chute. I took mine off and eliminated 95% of my clogs.

The fork is just another answer to someone's lawsuit that Kubota lawyers now make them install

Thanks for the tip. WILL DO!

 

[NEPA Guy]

Now that I have the time, I'll adjust the shoes, and try them next time around, hopefully less prone to tear up chunks of tar.

What about speed? Slow and steady or full out? I'm thinking id rather go slow next time and not rip out my grass.I'll pick up some of them orange sticks I see folks use to help keep me in line.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

During a normal winter up here we run snowblowers and plows with the shoes all the way down to leave a couple of inches of snow especially on unpaved surfaces. After a couple of snows a base of packed snow is built up and the shoes can be raised all the way up. The packed base usually lasts all winter and as long as it is packed snow and not ice traction is not a problem. Your conditions are probably a little different and the snow may not last all winter. In your area I would think about cutting a pipe on one side and putting it on the cutting edge of the snowblower to keep it from digging in.

 

[asgard]

I have just recently invested in a Kubota with front blower, previously an Allied rear blower.
I fit rubber conveyor belt to the edge of the auger, leaving a small gap between the housing and blade edge. If you ar a little tight on install it wears off quickly. That has made a vast improvement to any blower it was installed on. No more clogs and stops any stones - gravel drive - from binding the auger.
Picture of the ones on my Allied blower.I have yet to install them on the Kubota as the clearances seemed quite tight.
I have the same on a walk behind and it works both to stop clogs but also extends throw distance.
Not my idea - posted on the web, look at youtube

 

[NEPA Guy]

During a normal winter up here we run snowblowers and plows with the shoes all the way down to leave a couple of inches of snow especially on unpaved surfaces. After a couple of snows a base of packed snow is built up and the shoes can be raised all the way up. The packed base usually lasts all winter and as long as it is packed snow and not ice traction is not a problem. Your conditions are probably a little different and the snow may not last all winter. In your area I would think about cutting a pipe on one side and putting it on the cutting edge of the snowblower to keep it from digging in.

Thats a good idea, Would a thin piece of pvc hold up or would this have to be screwed in?

 

[NEPA Guy]

I have just recently invested in a Kubota with front blower, previously an Allied rear blower.
I fit rubber conveyor belt to the edge of the auger, leaving a small gap between the housing and blade edge. If you ar a little tight on install it wears off quickly. That has made a vast improvement to any blower it was installed on. No more clogs and stops any stones - gravel drive - from binding the auger.
Picture of the ones on my Allied blower.I have yet to install them on the Kubota as the clearances seemed quite tight.
I have the same on a walk behind and it works both to stop clogs but also extends throw distance.
Not my idea - posted on the web, look at youtube

I had been looking online and found some of the fitment kits people will throw on, mostly guys using the push blowers. I'll have to measure my gap, and see if it applies. I'll look into it thanks!

I wonder why Kubota wouldnt build those in there if they do in fact work? Seems like a great money maker for them replacing worn rubber pieces with KUBOTA BRAND at $50 a pop.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

Thats a good idea, Would a thin piece of pvc hold up or would this have to be screwed in?

The pipe is split on one side so it looks like a nearly closed "C" from the ends. You then drive the pipe on the cutting edge. There are threads here where PVC has been used on the cutting edges of rear blades. I think most of the snowblowers have used iron pipe. I tried plastic pipe on my snowblower last year, but the second time out the blower ate the PVC. I probably will not put pipe, PVC or iron, back on my snowblower as I don't have a problem when there is a good snow base.

 

[asgard]

When I did my first try, not using a kit but self-build. The ribbed rubber mat was too thin and weak and it shredded in no time, the advantage was it did no damage to the blower. It was a walk behind one.
I went to my tractor shop- actually a JD dealer and got some belt. It is thick with webbing and about 3/8 - 1/2 inch thick, mounted using small plates and self-drilling bolts. I made them wide enough they could be reversed.
Another advantage is that it cleans the auger housing so you seldom get any ice build up after use.
As I type I am wondering why I am sitting here and not out making a set for the Kubota.

 

[eipo]

What about speed? Slow and steady or full out? I'm thinking id rather go slow next time and not rip out my grass.I'll pick up some of them orange sticks I see folks use to help keep me in line.

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

Deep snows and small areas you'll end up pushing the snow rather than rolling it. For this I would use mid range on the speed.

If you have large areas and long straightaways, you really do want to utilize as fast a speed as the tractor will handle to get the snow to ride up and roll off the blade. Essentially like an earth plow rolls the ground. Doing this will allow you to windrow more snow than if you were simply trying to push it.

Heres an example of using speed to get the snow to roll up the blade...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WitsX0HxMY

 

[NEPA Guy]

I do need to practice at high speeds. It does seem easier to lose control when going in H. I'm sure I came near top speed when pushing the snow, I don't think I could could throw it as well as the truck in the video.

I wonder if I can fabricate some wings on the stabilizers of the backhoe to help with my wobble. I could lower and raise them to adjust my velocity...

I took off the guard on the chute, and adjusted the shoes on the blade tired it out by cleaning up the edges of the road and it seems to work better.

We got about 3 inches of snow so I put the blower back on prepped it to hit the road again early am. Ready for more!

 

[Southernfarm]

BTW that last picture should be on a Christmas card!

 

[eipo]

Oh, and all the grass and yard you are pulling up... Consider it maintenance due. It will help with drainage off your drive.

 

[BAP]

You really shouldn't need to go at a high speed to make the plow work. Looking at your pictures it looks to me like the Kubota snowplow is not the best design. Looks like it does not have a lot of curvature in the blade. Good snowplows are concaved from top to bottom. This creates a rolling action of the snow as it pushes it to the side which keeps the blade clean. Flatter the blade less rolling and more likely to stick.

 

[NEPA Guy]

Thanks Southernfarm, I do love my property. In the family for just over 25 years now. I hope to keep it that way.

You're right eipo, I'll just reseed come spring.

Could be BAP, I'll have to compare the curvature to my atv plow when I get the time, right now its in a storage shed up in the woods.

Here's a front shot. I don't have any sides shots atm. What do you think?

Still a nice setup to have. The best of both on the front quick attach. It's fun owning a tractor once all the kinks are worked out.

 

[bearskinner]

With the angle adjust on the blade, a larger curved blade isn't really needed, it's quick and easy to angle up to almost 45 degrees for snow deflection. When I plow, it rolls to the top and off the side real easy. I think a larger more curved blade might slow down a light tractor like a BX too much, or just push it sideways.