L2850 V1702 di > V2203 di conversion

[clark_bailey]

Can you weld a nut on that 1/4 inch that remains? I've seen the heat from welding and the nut to crank on sometimes works to get them out. If you shear it off flush then drill it out. That's what I've done in the past on old junk I get to working on. I'll have my engine next week and I'll be holding my breath to get the exhaust studs out as well.

 

[Wild and Free]

As tight as these things are and as small as the studs are its not worth the extra effort to even try the welded nut trick, just going to drill them right away and be done with it. Got to do some drilling any way for the hole in the block for the dipstick so will do it all at once.

 

[Wild and Free]

Here are pictures of the freshly tapped valve cover to accept the oil fill cap from old engine plus pics of the exhaust stud fun.

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[clark_bailey]

looks like progress to me!


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[cviola2005]

Glad to see everything working out so far! Yeah, them studs look pretty rough, but it looks like you're making short work of that.

If it wasn't for that tachometer drive missing, I would suggest a remote oil filter setup. I have some and would send you one, but you'll have to swap front covers anyway so that won't help.

Let me know where the valve lash is before you set it. After seeing the rod bearings like new, I'd curious to know.

 

[Wild and Free]

making some progress today, got the block drilled for the dipstick, need to go one drill size bigger than what i have on hand dip stick fits but is a bit tight, final drill size for dipstick will be 29/64.

Working on drilling the four broken exhaust studs, got one drilled through and the pilot hole started in 3 others, so far no broken drill bits lol hopefully i can continue the luck, working with 1/8 bits is hit and miss once one breaks through.
Will get some more pics up some time today.
Waiting on the gasket kit to show up now in the next few days to go any further but will be on a much needed vaca for a bit so will be a couple week lul in the progress after this coming week.

 

[Wild and Free]

Here is the new dipstick hole, like i posted in last post final size will be drill size 29/64 for those who may do this in future.

Here is the last broken exhaust stud to come out with no broken drill bits or extractors, two of the holes were very stubborn and required som gentle heat for a couple minutes each by a small hand held propane torch.

What sweet success looks like.

Thread Chasing all the holes with an 8 mm by 1.25 pitch thread chaser to clean things up.

Can't forget about The PPE "Personal protective equipment" and my go to product for lube and penetration. Bulldog would be proud.

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[clark_bailey]

On your way to sunny Florida, drop in drought riddled central Alabama and get the exhaust studs out for me. I'll have the engine on 11-21. Your progress looks great so far, I'm looking forward to seeing your running tractor video at the end of this project.

 

[Wild and Free]

HaHa me too.....................someday.

 

[cviola2005]

Are you driving that distance? Stop by my shop if you have a minute

 

[Wild and Free]

Nope we have Allegiant airlines, direct flight from Bismarck to Orlando then rent a car there and wander.

 

[cviola2005]

Good deal. That will definitely cut down on travel time while increasing relaxation time.

 

[Wild and Free]

Are you driving that distance? Stop by my shop if you have a minute

If I was driving I would definitely stop in. A couple years ago when I did a Florida trip I started a meet and greet at another guys place with his gracious acceptance and also thinking it was a good idea for a Dodge Cummins forum we are part of, had a good time, had about 7 people from the Tampa area from the forum meet up at his home for a bbq drinks and BS session and walk on the beach as he only lived about 2 blocks away.

 

[Wild and Free]

Was doing some searching for part number for crank shaft seals and came across a couple parts manuals for the V2203 and figured I would share.

V2203DI parts manual
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...or.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFE84CbjjdtCJ3POKXt4X2I9Vb2QQ
Tier 4 manual
http://www.utcccs-cdn.com/hvac/docs/2000/Public/03/62-11335.pdf

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The right Kubota seal for your motor is P/N 16433-04460,
much better seal than the kumar supplied seal.

Sadly this is what the Kumar seal did after about hour of use.
I've replaced it with the Kubota seal , and it's holding perfectly.

 

[Wild and Free]

Is that a Kubota part #? This is why I am looking for an OEM Kubota seal # based on your experience.
I looked up the rear crank seal number in the Carrier books and they show a part # of 25-37198-00 which looks like a Kubota #.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yeppers the number I gave you is Kubota's number, I bought it from Coleman's.

Kubota part #'s are almost always XXXXX-XXXXX form.

 

[Wild and Free]

Yeppers the number I gave you is Kubota's number, I got it from Coleman's.

Kubota part #'s are almost always XXXXX-XXXXX form.

Thanks, happen to have the # for the front crank seal?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Since your using the gear case cover off of the original motor you will want that seal off of the V1702 (but in this case they are the same seal on both models) P/N 09550-00001

Check the gear case cover gasket and O-rings as there might be a slight difference (down by the oil outlets if I remember right) and you might have to get the gasket for the V1702 to match the case.

 

[Wild and Free]

Starting to think i wasted a ton of money buying a gasket kit and stud kit off e-bay when i could have bought the individual parts i would have needed for half of what i spent already and still need to fork out more.
Oh well just going to have to work another week to make up for it before i can retire. Retirement age is looking to be somewhere around 95-98 years old for me now.