I drilled into my ROPS......

85Hokie

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No there's plenty of room.

I'm only going to shorten it 2 inches. Kubota made it 7' 1" when my garage door is 7' as is most residential garage doors.

I refuse to constantly pull the pins since I'm in and out of the shop at least 4 times per day, so it's off the tractor now. So it's either staying off the tractor or it's getting shortened.
I built a whole damn new shed for the exact same reason!!!:D;):)
 

scdeerslayer

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MX5200DT
May 23, 2016
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I'm 61 and have been on tractors of many types and varieties since I was 5, grandparents farm and on my place. This Kubota is the first to have a roll bar. Some how I survived. :D

It could be due to the fact that I don't do stupid stuff on the tractor and know it's limitations.
I have the same feeling about those damn plastic guards on PTO shafts. One of the first things my dad taught me about tractors was to never get near any PTO shaft, whether spinning or not, unless the tractor engine was off. Those guards make it so much harder to connect the shaft to the tractor.

I'm not really all that opposed to a roll bar though, especially with the tractors now having a lot more capabilities in smaller and lighter packages. I do wonder though, if these safety devices give people a sense of security that lead to them doing things they shouldn't do.
 

sheepfarmer

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I was at the dealer's yesterday and the tech and the owner were discussing the health of the engine on a little tractor that had been rolled over. Asked how it happened and he said the operator said a tree branch caught the joystick and the loader went straight up. The guy had about enough time to think we're going over and so he jumped off, but not enough to stop the tractor. So much for the seat belt. It had a ROPS. And then there are the trees that catch the rops and tip the tractor over. I think trees and tractors don't get along.
 

Russell King

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I have the same feeling about those damn plastic guards on PTO shafts. One of the first things my dad taught me about tractors was to never get near any PTO shaft, whether spinning or not, unless the tractor engine was off. Those guards make it so much harder to connect the shaft to the tractor.

Figure out the way to disconnect the shield and slide it back out of the way to connect the PTO to the tractor then reconnect the shield. Makes it much easier.



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scdeerslayer

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Figure out the way to disconnect the shield and slide it back out of the way to connect the PTO to the tractor then reconnect the shield. Makes it much easier.



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I've looked and never seen a way to do that without breaking the plastic apart. The flip-up guard on the new tractor makes it easier as long as the top link isn't in the way.
 

Russell King

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Take a picture and post (new thread?) and maybe we can figure it out


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skeets

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I really cant stand to read about butchering the ROPS,, so you guys that are infact doing mods to the ROPS,,, please do me a favor,,, put me on your life insurance policy as sole beneficiary
Thanks in advance
 

Newlyme

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It doesn't get any easier (or cheaper) than this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015SQD4V2?psc=1.

wired all 3 lights on one switch directly to battery, placed switch under instrument panel opposite of key
Read the whole thread. Didn't see anywhere that said you put a fuse in the system.

I did the same setup you described on an old green tractor I had. The lights worked great. Until the wire got pinched and turned red hot and started melting things.

As D2Cat says, "Learn from the mistakes of others, you can never live long enough to make them all yourself"

So please learn from mine. Put in a fuse. I did. ;)
 
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Trainman2k

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BX1870
Aug 31, 2014
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I haven't drilled into mine yet, but I don't see what the uproar could be from. If it (the ROPS) is weakened to the point of being unsafe after perhaps 0.1% of it's material is removed, then to me, THERE is where the problem lurks. I'll probably get beat on the head with a FEL, but it just don't make sense how removing an ounce of material from something that seems to weight a significant amount, could do 'catastrophic damage' to it.
 
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skeets

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Trainman,, removing 1/4 inch of material in all likely hood wont damage the structural integrity of the ROPS. With that being said, unless you are a structural engineer or know one that will sign off on that hole saying that hole has not effected the integrity of the ROPS.
Your shooting your self in the foot, should God forbid anything happen to you or someone else and the ROPS fail. Any mods done to a ROPS, that has been design and signed off by a SE, throws any responsibility of the company right out the window. And yeah I was a safety guy, and I have seen things like this happen before, with some very heart breaking consonances.
Its your machine, do as you will, just remember you are in a sense defeating a safety item.
 

D2Cat

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I think the ongoing conversation of drilling into the ROPS is a "scare" tactic to keep folks from modifying the ROPS. Since once the topic is breached there would be no end to modifications. It is for sure a safety issue, but not near as critical as drilling a 3/8" hole to mount a light or canopy.

The problem is there are too many graduates from law school and they have to provide for their families and pay back all that student loan! So you become their target when anything is done with/to any object they think they can collect from.

All of life requires a bit of decision making that includes short and long term positive results. (Often called "common sense")

The ROPS "don't touch it" results from the fear of: inappropriate modification decisions, and law suits.

Interestingly enough, Kubota at times had holes drilled in the ROPS. It must have been for the removal of the top before the idea of a hinge was developed.

I've had more then one tractor with the top cut and attached with bolts. Nice, straight factor cuts. It must have been before all the student loans got so big!

This is not mine. I just copied it off CL.

 

mdhughes

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Interestingly enough, Kubota at times had holes drilled in the ROPS. It must have been for the removal of the top before the idea of a hinge was developed.

I've had more then one tractor with the top cut and attached with bolts. Nice, straight factor cuts.
But the ROPS was designed and tested with these cuts and holes in them. I think the main thing is for people to understand that drilling holes can change the structure of the ROPS and it might not protect the same way it would if it was left as designed and tested.

As you said, it is your tractor and you can do what you want with it, but I think is better to tell members that it could change the way the ROPS protects if you drill, cut or weld on the ROPS.
 

tcrote5516

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BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
Sep 2, 2014
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I am buying a new L6600 and the ROPS is rusted at the folding hinge point. Does that concern anyone. Is that a common place to rust?
Honestly I'm pretty sure you could cut the top center section OUT of the ROPS and the uprights would still be a suitable kickstand prevent a full rollover in most cases. These aren't nascars doing barrel rolls at 170mph that need a flawlessly designed structural roll cage. We are taking about tractors just barely moving past the tipping point in a slow roll. I wouldn't worry about rust or even 100 holes drilled in it one bit.

If the mounting plate has gone past rust and into rot that would be the only thing I would be concerned with.

And for the OP of this thread's title: :)
 
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daudav

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F-2100, F-3990, B2410, L-3300, L-6060
what are the physics of roll over? How many degrees can you tilt before you roll over? Are big tractors more easily rolled over, is the L6600 more easily rolled over than a L3301? Thanks
 

tcrote5516

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BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
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Southern New Hampshire
what are the physics of roll over? How many degrees can you tilt before you roll over? Are big tractors more easily rolled over, is the L6600 more easily rolled over than a L3301? Thanks
It's about as variable as it gets. Each model has it's own unique balance points but those change depending on implements, tires, cab/no cab, fel position and load, terrain dips ect ect ect.

The biggest cause is a loaded fel carried higher than needed and bumps or dips in the terrain that get momentum going in the wrong direction.

You tend to see more smaller machines rolled over but I don't believe that's an indication that bigger is more stable. I believe smaller tractor operators are generally less experienced and/or the operator is more likely to take bigger risks getting in awkward positions with a smaller machine.
 

MaleHoe

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Kubota B2620 TLB, JD X495
Jun 23, 2016
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I cut 2 1/2" from mine so it goes in the garage. If I hadn't done that I would just remove the top and leave it off.

Why? It's mine and I'll do what I want with it. :)