G5200 How do I bleed injector lines?
- Thread starter DougMatthews
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North Idaho Wolfman
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#1: You have to remove the intake on most to get the front glow plug out.
#2: Glow plugs are easier to break than the Injectors!
It's just my opinion, you could take out the glow plugs as that too will open it up so you don't have any compression.
With removing either, blow off all loose material, I spray everything down with brake parts cleaner and blow it all off with air.
I would wait to do this very last.
Remove the propeller shaft to eliminate HST drag (not very common).
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I haven't had to pull the intake to get the front glow plug out, but good point on breaking. Yes, they are easier to break.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Access to some does depend on the model, and the right tools.
Now if it's DI motor with pencil injectors, glow plugs every time, as they are pricey!
Ah! Proper tools help a LOT! lolAccess to some does depend on the model, and the right tools.
Now if it's DI motor with pencil injectors, glow plugs every time, as they are pricey!
DOH! I was thinking about pulling glow plugs on my tractor when I commented last! lol
And yeah, pencil injectors are no fun.
OK, voltage:
13.0 V across battery terminals.
0.0 V across positive cable (battery to starter) at rest.
0.33-0.40 V across positive cable (battery to starter) when cranking.
9.0 V across battery terminals once starter won't crank anymore.
Battery snaps back to 12.5+ V very quickly after releasing key.
Out of time for the evening.
13.0 V across battery terminals.
0.0 V across positive cable (battery to starter) at rest.
0.33-0.40 V across positive cable (battery to starter) when cranking.
9.0 V across battery terminals once starter won't crank anymore.
Battery snaps back to 12.5+ V very quickly after releasing key.
Out of time for the evening.
You should have full battery voltage at the starter lug at anytime minus voltage drop during cranking.
Either you have a bad connection or a bad cable. Try cleaning all connections and coating them with dielectric grease.
The voltage at the battery terminal and the voltage at the starter lug during cranking are never more than 0.4V apart.
The voltage across the battery terminals drops down as the engine bogs down and ceases turning. Lowest it gets is 9V when the engine ceases turning. Bounces back quickly when the key is released. This seems normal, unless I am mistaken. If this is not normal, please say so and I'll take the battery back to the shop and have them load test it.
All connections are perfectly clean. Will apply dielectric grease once I acquire some.
CountryBumkin
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Battery voltage should not drop to 9V. If a fully charged battery drops below 9.6V during a "load test", it is no good.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us20310.htm
North Idaho Wolfman
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It sounds like your battery is fine, but it's a quick and easy step to eliminate it as a possible fail point, just pull it and run it to just about any auto parts store and have them load test it.
I'm thinking your best options for the slow crank would be either the starter is bad, yes a bad starter can spin up on a bench test and fail under a load, or you have something else that is binding up the motor or drive.
Have you tried turning the motor by hand?
I'm thinking your best options for the slow crank would be either the starter is bad, yes a bad starter can spin up on a bench test and fail under a load, or you have something else that is binding up the motor or drive.
Have you tried turning the motor by hand?
I guess it depends on location. When the last battery failed in my tractor I took it to 4 different auto parts stores. O'Rilley, AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts and Napa. Napa was the only one that said it was no good. Napa was the first place I took it. I took it to the other auto parts just to see how their tests would compare, (I had been told by a mechanic friend that they were inaccurate and wanted to see for myself). I then took it to a place that only sells batteries, the place I bought it, and they said it was no good. They gave me a new one because it was less than a year old.
Took the battery to two auto parts stores (Napa & O'Reilly, just to be sure) - both places the battery tested out as "Good".
How would one turn the motor by hand (what do you grab onto or apply leverage to)? Assuming injectors or glow plugs out for this operation?
Another possibility may be entering the picture: human error. The manual identifies the tractor as G5200. Found a picture of (my actual) mower and the engine cowling says G6200. I am trying to get my wife to get me a picture of nameplate to determine for sure. If this is the case, the part numbers for the starters are different. D640 engine vs. D600. Perhaps I have the wrong part and am asking too much of it. Much as I hate to be wrong, I'd swallow that pill to have the tractor running. We'll see.
How would one turn the motor by hand (what do you grab onto or apply leverage to)? Assuming injectors or glow plugs out for this operation?
Another possibility may be entering the picture: human error. The manual identifies the tractor as G5200. Found a picture of (my actual) mower and the engine cowling says G6200. I am trying to get my wife to get me a picture of nameplate to determine for sure. If this is the case, the part numbers for the starters are different. D640 engine vs. D600. Perhaps I have the wrong part and am asking too much of it. Much as I hate to be wrong, I'd swallow that pill to have the tractor running. We'll see.
You say it will crank for a time then bogs down and stops. Will it crank again if you let it sit for few minutes? Load testing batteries is performed at 50% of CVA rating for testing but it is possible to pull more amps from battery when trying to start vehicle. Limiting factor is cable size and starter design. You said you replaced cables, were they the same size(gauge)cable. From my experience in our shop you have done right so far, new battery,cables and starter and your testing falls inline with Delco Remy warranty test procedures. Sounds more like something else loading engine up when you are trying to crank it over
Yes, the new cables are same gauge wire as old.
As to your cranking questions, here is a video of attempting to start this tractor (posted earlier in thread, too):
https://youtu.be/5720TV-MGh4
North Idaho Wolfman
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Oh yes, the 2 have completely different starters, KW rating is much lower on the G5200 starter than the G6200, and I also think the case size is smaller which would run the gear in tighter to the flywheel thus causing it to bind when turning.
The D600 starter has a rating of 0.8kW. The D722 starter has the same rating. Why would the D640 have a higher rating?
OK, so I was not wrong (bummer):
o Canopy says G6200 (perhaps the previous owner replaced it?)
o Nameplate says G5200
o Manual says G5200
o Engine head says D600
Off to the electrical shop to have the starter load tested.
o Canopy says G6200 (perhaps the previous owner replaced it?)
o Nameplate says G5200
o Manual says G5200
o Engine head says D600
Off to the electrical shop to have the starter load tested.
IIRC, these two engines are interchangable. I believe the D640 uses the D600 head.
The best place to look for the engine model (on most kubota engines, not the V1405 or V1505) is next to the injection pump. Flat machined surface, stamped letters.
The best place to look for the engine model (on most kubota engines, not the V1405 or V1505) is next to the injection pump. Flat machined surface, stamped letters.
Took the starter to Romaine Electric in Kent, WA (electrical parts remanufacturer/distributor. Starter load tested Good. Will look where cviola suggested for more evidence on which engine I have.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Engine size is also cast into the block behind the injection pump.
I don't know why it's higher but it is?
Starter for the D600 / G5200 is a .8 kw starter
Starter for the D640 / G6200 is a 1.2 kw starter
I'm also assuming the starter in the G6200 is larger as it has a higher KW and that it's not interchangeable with the starter on on the D600.
I don't know why it's higher but it is?
Starter for the D600 / G5200 is a .8 kw starter
Starter for the D640 / G6200 is a 1.2 kw starter
I'm also assuming the starter in the G6200 is larger as it has a higher KW and that it's not interchangeable with the starter on on the D600.