Diesel leak. Do I need the brass washer replaced? PIC INCLUDED

[Big Trees]

Sorry to say it, but that looks like a Zexel tag, all the ND tags I've seen are rectangle.

But I could be wrong.

Are you going to rebuild the whole pump, or just the seal on the delivery valves?

For my sake, I hope you're wrong, NIW lol.


I am just sealing the valves. I believe that's what the quote was for from that shop for $250 as well.

Would you suggest I rebuild the whole pump? Not sure if I'm ready for that as I don't have any literature for it. And the added cost would give me hesitation as well.


Thanks for the continued help, NIW.

 

[D2Cat]

If your tractor runs, but is just leaking fuel at the connection pictured, you do not need an injection pump rebuilt. Stop the leak and use your tractor.

The information you got from the injection pump shop seems generic
and misleading.

A clean fuel filter will insure a long life for your injection pump. Quit worrying!!

 

[Big Trees]

D2CAT- Thanks for the response. That's exactly what I wanted to hear!! I will install a new fuel filter. I haven't put a new one on since I got the tractor.

The information from the shop didn't seem right to me as well. Thank you for confirming that.

Thank you very much for your help. I hope to have the leak sealed soon.

 

[Delmar]

I had a very similar issue on a 3 cylinder D722 engine. Leakage at top of pump wasn't excessive, but over time made an oily mess. I, too, read that repair of the injector pump was not a DIY possibility, but since it was a "spare" machine figured I'd give it a shot. I'm glad I did.

I posted a detailed account over on TBN. Here is a link to that thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/....html?highlight=you+can+repair+injection+pump

Your pump looks a little different, but I believe the process will be the same. One caution: when you remove the "plunger" watch for a tiny pin that will fall out of the end. (Pics in the thread referenced above.)

Another hint: I couldn't source the O rings locally and simply used rings from an assortment box. I know it sounds sketchy, but it worked for me!

As for timing, I didn't notice any difference. I have no idea how to set timing (I know it involves shims but I've never learned how it works). The only difference I noticed was a little more smoke at start up. Not sure if that was related to my work on the pump or just my imagination.

Good luck!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

No, I'm not suggesting or recommending rebuilding the pump.
I'm just saying if your just trying to seal it, you don't need a fancy kit to do that, it's just 2 simple O-rings to seal the pump.
Pull the delivery valves, remove O-rings, match new ones and replace, bleed lines at the injectors and your good to go.

 

[Big Trees]

Thanks, guys.

That's what I'll do and in that order.

I'll check out the link also, thanks for that.


I appreciate you all's help. Will post my progress.

 

[Big Trees]

Hey there, I'm hoping you all can clear up a little confusion on my part.

I got the pieces in the mail today along with the diagram they were kind enough to send.

When I removed the fitting I could immediately tell that there were no O rings installed on the fitting. The diagram shows there are supposed to be some there. They are # 7 in the diagram.

I did not replace the washers (#8) as I didn't think they were sealing anything. Plus I could not exactly tell how to get to them.

I put the O rings in the location were they are shown in the diagram and started to tighten the fitting down some and could tell that it was not going to seal. The O ring isn't wide/thick enough to cover the gap left in between the fitting and the housing.

As expected, it still leaked when I started the tractor up.

Should I have installed the washers? Will they get anything sealed or is that just the O ring?

Anything somebody sees that maybe I missed?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!! Thank you !!!

 

[85Hokie]

That O ring has to get compressed under the nut against the wall of the cylinder.....it looks too big or the nut needs to be tightened more?

 

[Big Trees]

Hokie- It appears that the nut either needs to be tightened further or the o ring should be wider. The nut is torqued to spec and I don't think it could get any tighter. It may be the size of the o ring that isn't correct.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First you need to pull the pump plungers out and remove the old O-ring.

The chances of it not having any originally would be very odd.

Yes you need to replace the washers too as they part of the sealing.

 

[Big Trees]

First you need to pull the pump plungers out and remove the old O-ring.

The chances of it not having any originally would be very odd.

Yes you need to replace the washers too as they part of the sealing.

Ok, thank you for the response, NIW. I will try to do that tomorrow. Should they just pull out (plungers)?


Thanks a bunch!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes the should pull strait out.

 

[Big Trees]

Thank you very much!! Your willingness to help educate me is very much appreciated!

 

[Big Trees]

I pulled the valve holders off and pulled the "plunger" out and still did not see any washer or o ring so I called Diesel Equipment. The Bob fella is out for the week so I spoke to somebody else.

We went over the diagram along with some pics that I sent to his phone. He told me that it appears that the diagram may not be correct to how mine is setup. I explained to him that I have not come across and o ring or a washer up to the point that I am at. He said he believes the washer is below where I am at now.

I explained that I have removed the "missile" shaped piece and he says that piece is the top part of #9 on the diagram. He said the part that I am looking at on the right valve assembly is the bottom part of #9. He says he believes that the washer is below #9 and that I need to get that part out to get to the washer. I told him that part seems stuck in there and he says it won't be fun but it's going to take some persuading to get it out.

I asked him why he believes I don't have any o rings on the setup and he said that his best guess is that they are "dust" o rings. To keep the dust out of the threads. He said that the washers will seal the fuel and that the o rings seal out the dirt.


He was very helpful and is supposed to have somebody call me tomorrow who works on these pumps more than him.

I've included some pics that I sent him. Up to the point you see in the pics I have not come across any o ring or any washer.


Not sure what's going on but I hope to find out more tomorrow.


Anybody have any thoughts on this situation? I'd appreciate your opinion/suggestion.


Thank you

 

[85Hokie]

i'm thinkin' that were are looking at a drawing different than the parts you have. That missile looks as if an o ring could go there at the top before the chamfer however

 

[Big Trees]

Hokie- Not going to lie. I thought the exact same thing until the guy sent me a pic of him holding the missile looking piece along with the one that the missile sits into. I will load that pic on here a little later when I sit back down at the computer.

Exact same thought I had until he sent me that pic, no lie. I will post back soon.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think the guy you are talking to is a little off, the bottom washer , and o-ring are what seals the fuel.
That O-ring you have on there is too big, it shouldn't go up to the top, it should be the same size as the bottom of the fitting.
You need to pull the pump plunger (#3) out to get to the washer and O-ring.

This is a Picture of the B5100's pump and I do believe that yours is the same style.

 

[Big Trees]

NIW- Thank you for the continued help!

I don't want to damage the piece that's stuck in there but from what you have said and that guy has said, it sounds like it does need to come out.

This is the picture that the guys sent to me. On his table is the "missile" looking piece that I have out but in his hand is the piece that is stuck in there. He said to use needle nose pliers to get it out. He said, " believe it or not, for as delicate as those pieces are, we really get after them sometimes."


I have tried but it's really giving me a hard time coming out. Maybe I can find some real slim needle nose pliers. Something to give me a little better grip.

 

[Big Trees]

I'm hoping anybody with experience taking pumps like this apart can help me.


How would you get the part unstuck? Would you use extra slim needle nose?

All I have is regular needle nose and I can not get it out.


Thank you in advance

 

[Big Trees]

Another question. Hoping you guys can help me here.


I called Western Kentucky Tractor Parts and the lady said that her personal belief was that I was probably leaking from the fitting that screws to the pump.

After reading a little it seems that the fitting may be a flare fitted piece.


My question is, do you think that I could stop my leak by replacing the fitting?



Thank you in advance!