Diesel leak. Do I need the brass washer replaced? PIC INCLUDED

[Big Trees]

I've read on here about the injectors leaking and see that people have been told that they need to replace the brass washers. Is that the cause for my diesel leak?

In the picture the red arrow is pointing at the leak.

Also, if that is what I need then I'm not too sure how easy it'll be for me to locate. Here's the part number that I believe it to be and it doesn't look like it's available.
http://www.messicks.com/part/04512-50080/washer-spring-cr


Thank you in advance!

 

[whitetiger]

The washer you referenced is not correct. You have a leaking fuel delivery valve, needs a sealing washer and o-ring to repair.
What is this engine and what is it in?

 

[Big Trees]

whitetiger- Thank you for the reply and the advice. I should have mentioned the tractor it was. It is a B6000E and the engine is the 2 cylinder ZL600.

Thank you very much.

 

[Dave_eng]

Whitetiger may indeed be correct so I offer the following for info only.

If the washer is a non steel material , likely the washer is copper not brass. Copper can be soft and thus compress and form a good seal. However, once compressed as a washer it gets hardened and will not work well as a washer the second time.
An option used by many British motorcyclists is to anneal the copper washer.
The process is simple, heat until it glows red, then let it cool slowly in the air. Some confused people advocate "quenching" the washer. Quenching, immersing in liquid, is a way to make metal hard. We want our copper washers to be soft so they can form a good seal.

Here is a link to a youtube video on How to Anneal a Copper Washer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMLqlDSsQpA
Dave M7040

 

[whitetiger]

I just checked the parts break down and they do not list this washer and o-ring separate from the pump. You will probably have to call an Injection service shop, give them your engine model, serial number and tell them you need the o-ring and washer to seal your injection pump fuel delivery valves.
The washer is not brass, do not remember if it is aluminum or a harder metal.

 

[Big Trees]

Thank you both for the replies and helping me with the info needed. I will check with an injector service station and see if they can help me.


I appreciate you guys.

 

[coachgeo]

I just checked the parts break down and they do not list this washer and o-ring separate from the pump. You will probably have to call an Injection service shop, give them your engine model, serial number and tell them you need the o-ring and washer to seal your injection pump fuel delivery valves.
The washer is not brass, do not remember if it is aluminum or a harder metal.

hmmmm.... learned something new everyday. Figured a tractor built in mid 70's would be using brass washers like every other diesel back in those days. that is assuming the B600E is same specs as what Tractordata list as for the B6000

 

[Big Trees]

WOW! I called the first injection service place and was not expecting the price I was quoted.


I called looking for a sealing washer and o ring and the gentleman explained that you can't repair it like that. He said that when you unhook it, it looses the fuel settings and that it needs to be "retimed" when it's put back on. He said that I would need to remove the whole pump from the engine and then bring it to him to have him reseal it. He quoted me, "usually $250".


I'm shocked. I told him for that price I would likely just keep using the tractor as it and let it leak. Did not disrespect the man but I made it clear that I was not paying that for this tractor.


No injection service places near me so I have to look and call from online searches. I'll try a few more and see what they say.

 

[85Hokie]

WOW! I called the first injection service place and was not expecting the price I was quoted.


I called looking for a sealing washer and o ring and the gentleman explained that you can't repair it like that. He said that when you unhook it, it looses the fuel settings and that it needs to be "retimed" when it's put back on. He said that I would need to remove the whole pump from the engine and then bring it to him to have him reseal it. He quoted me, "usually $250".


I'm shocked. I told him for that price I would likely just keep using the tractor as it and let it leak. Did not disrespect the man but I made it clear that I was not paying that for this tractor.


No injection service places near me so I have to look and call from online searches. I'll try a few more and see what they say.

I would like someone who has done this several times (Daren - NIW or others) and pleeeeease tell me that this is NOT the case!!!

I need to do the exact same thing.......just now getting the time to do it!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

He said that when you unhook it, it looses the fuel settings and that it needs to be "retimed" when it's put back on. He said that I would need to remove the whole pump from the engine and then bring it to him to have him reseal it. He quoted me, "usually $250".

The re-timed part is sort of B.S. , yes loose / leaking delivery valves can effect the timing. Kubota uses shims to set the timing and you can remove the pump and reinstall it without effecting the timing one bit. Sealing the leaks

You need delivery valve seals, they are usually O-rings, or they could be sealing rings, like soft steel, aluminum, or copper and yes getting sealing rings that are too thick or thin will effect the amount of fuel delivered.

#1 That is actually a very good price to rebuild that pump!
#2 Have you tried to tighten the delivery valves?
#3 If you are confident you can work on it, you can remove the delivery lines and valves then find out what kind of seals are involved, they will be metric O-rings is so equipped. If it involves washer seals, you will need to mic the seals and get new seals that are slightly thicker.

 

[Big Trees]

Thanks for the replies, fellas.


NIW - I have not tried to tighten it up at all. I will do that when I get back out by the tractor. Thanks for your opinion on the pump pricing as well. I need to stop comparing how much stuff cost to how much I paid for this tractor. When doing that it's hard to see any significant repair as being "worth it".

I believe I would be able to complete the repair. I'm totally new to diesels and fairly new to wrenching on stuff myself but I'm confident that if it can be done that I can do it.


I will first try to tighten it up a little and if that doesn't help then I will look into taking the lines and valves off to renew the seal(s).


Thank you for taking the time to help me. I will post back.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Lossen the delivery line, then tighten the fitting, you might have to bleed the line off at the injector if it gets air in it, you'll know because it either won't start, or it will start, run for a bit and then die.

Some or all of parts on these little monsters are a little pricey, but they are what makes them great machines!

 

[1970cs]

Call Diesel equipment and speak to Bob Fox 517-645-7684. The shipping will be more than the parts.

I would sell you what you need but I have not paid for sponsorship.

The place you called is full of it. You could tighten the cap as mentioned above but the o-ring won't be O anymore it will be cupped. Plus if you inspect the washer it will have black marks on it.

Pat

 

[Big Trees]

You guys are awesome! Thank you so much!

I tried to tighten it earlier with no luck of stopping the leak. I did that before just now reading to loosen up the line before tightening up the fitting. I will try that tomorrow to hopefully buy me a day or two until the parts arrive. I will call Bob tomorrow. Thank you so much for the advice on that.


Thank you both so much, I will report back soon.

 

[Big Trees]

I have yet to tighten up anything as per NIW directions, I will do that later today.

I did call and speak with Bob like 1970cs suggested and I placed and order and hope to see it soon. Bob was not exactly sure which manufacturer is the one I was needing but he went with his first experienced opinion. If that's not it then I will order his second option. He believes it is NipponDenso that I'm needing but wasn't 100% sure. We will see.


Thank you all for the help, it's greatly appreciated.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

He believes it is NipponDenso that I'm needing but wasn't 100% sure.

There should be a tag on the injection pump.

 

[Big Trees]

There should be a tag on the injection pump.

I read him the few digits that were on the tag but that's the only thing visible on the pump.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I think it's a Zexel pump, not a NipponDenso.
The tag is on the back side of the pump between the injector outputs.

And it only takes simple O-Rings, no other seals.

 

[Big Trees]

I hope it's not a Zexel pump, just because of the added delay that will cause. Won't be the end of the world though. I almost ordered both but the Zexel ones double the price so I wanted to get this first set by itself.


Here are 3 pics I could get and they aren't the best but it shows that there is only one tag and that's the one that I gave the guy the numbers to.


I appreciate the help

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry to say it, but that looks like a Zexel tag, all the ND tags I've seen are rectangle.

But I could be wrong.

Are you going to rebuild the whole pump, or just the seal on the delivery valves?