I just got a 1998 L3010 without a folding ROPS and it is entirely too tall to get into my standard garage doors. Has anybody converted their ROPS to folding or just chopped it down and rewelded? It seems like it would be simple, but the vertical posts go up at an angle which could make adding folding brackets more difficult. I'm looking for some input on this, I'd like to keep the tractor safe and have it fit inside my garage, and I'd rather not build a lean-to on the side of the garage.
ROPS too tall for my garage, convert to folding?
- Thread starter sth5591
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kupitz
Member
Equipment
BX2660 with LA243 FEL and Front mount BX2750 snowblower/2763A heated Curtis cab.
I cut mine at the mid point about where they would fold. Inserted some square tubing and welded that to the bottom frame of the Rops. Put the Upper section back on and drilled two holes big enough to accomodate some 1/2" lynch hitch pins and now I have a removeable setup that can be put back on when needed.
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Lots of discussions on this. Granted it is hard to search by ROP.
Searching ...ROPS... might help as well as searching ...Garage...
Not knowing anything about your welding skills, please keep in mind that this is going to save your life if you ever roll the tractor over. If you feel comfortable with that responsibility, take a good close look at the folding mechanism on a tractor that has a folding ROPS and copy it. For the slanted tube issue, just make sure that the hinge pins are mounted in the same plane and perfectly parallel to each other and it will fold no problem.
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
And keep in mind the height is to prevent a ROLL over by helping it become just a flop over preventing from rolling and for protection in tilt and plop over forward or backward which happens more often with tractors than in car/trucks.
Some of the threads on ROPS in here point these issues out and should be read.
Not trying to rain on your parade but there is one other thing you may want to keep in mind. That is, if you ever sell this machine or have someone else run it, you are doubly liable for having modified it. I am about as far away from being a litigation expert as you can get, just figured I would throw this thought out there. Maybe someone with more knowledge can comment.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Guys,
remember the most important thing about a ROPS.......if you choose NOT TO wear your seatbelt while using the tractor, it doesn't really matter - the ROPS really does little to save you, much like an airbag helping those who choose to not to wear a seatbelt. Both need each other to work properly.
If mine - I would cut the ROPS and leave whole, allowing enough room to get under the header of the garage.......If I could not weld - I would have someone that is "good" at it do it.
If cutting and placing the sleeve in the middle - I would make sure the fit is perfect and bevel the meeting ends, allowing the weld to meet all three points. I professional welder will do this anyway. And a welder will make it as strong, if not stronger than before, I say all of this knowing full well the height of the ROPS is one of the key factors of roll over strength.
If we look at all the safety equipment that is now on tractors....they are there for a reason, safety switches, pto covers etc.......BUT they are really there to protect those who are not smart enough to protect themselves.
I bet that 90% of us (some will not admit) DO NOT use the seat belt - and yes, I am guilty as hell of it! OF my 200 hours, I might have worn it 10 hours.....I know - bad me! I do wear my belt q100% while driving car/truck....I have no excuse while on the tractor not to......
remember the most important thing about a ROPS.......if you choose NOT TO wear your seatbelt while using the tractor, it doesn't really matter - the ROPS really does little to save you, much like an airbag helping those who choose to not to wear a seatbelt. Both need each other to work properly.
If mine - I would cut the ROPS and leave whole, allowing enough room to get under the header of the garage.......If I could not weld - I would have someone that is "good" at it do it.
If cutting and placing the sleeve in the middle - I would make sure the fit is perfect and bevel the meeting ends, allowing the weld to meet all three points. I professional welder will do this anyway. And a welder will make it as strong, if not stronger than before, I say all of this knowing full well the height of the ROPS is one of the key factors of roll over strength.
If we look at all the safety equipment that is now on tractors....they are there for a reason, safety switches, pto covers etc.......BUT they are really there to protect those who are not smart enough to protect themselves.
I bet that 90% of us (some will not admit) DO NOT use the seat belt - and yes, I am guilty as hell of it! OF my 200 hours, I might have worn it 10 hours.....I know - bad me! I do wear my belt q100% while driving car/truck....I have no excuse while on the tractor not to......
How much clearance do you need? If you have a gravel or dirt driveway, is it an option to dig it down a little to allow the tractor to clear the top of the doorway? Just a thought.
I need about an inch of clearance, but it's a paved driveway and poured concrete garage floor, so no digging. I did consider letting some air out of the back tires.
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Air out would be easiest and most cost effective.
Bit Novel of an ideal just hit me. not tried it. Concept- find some way to tilt tractor backward by lifting front upward. Tilt her just enough to bring ROP low enough to clear door.
Ramps - When front end goes up....the ROP along with rest of tractor will tilt back. You just got to play with angles of Ramp to get enough for ROP to clear Top of Door edge AND with length so you can drive tractor in as deep as you desire.
Jack on wheels. Might can do this with a jack on wheels. Drive up till ROP by door. Put wheeled jack under front end to tilt her enough for ROP to clear. Then roll her in by hand. BUT then you might have to have a person to help you push her in and out of the garage that couple inches to get ROP pass the top edge of the door.
Bit Novel of an ideal just hit me. not tried it. Concept- find some way to tilt tractor backward by lifting front upward. Tilt her just enough to bring ROP low enough to clear door.
Ramps - When front end goes up....the ROP along with rest of tractor will tilt back. You just got to play with angles of Ramp to get enough for ROP to clear Top of Door edge AND with length so you can drive tractor in as deep as you desire.
Jack on wheels. Might can do this with a jack on wheels. Drive up till ROP by door. Put wheeled jack under front end to tilt her enough for ROP to clear. Then roll her in by hand. BUT then you might have to have a person to help you push her in and out of the garage that couple inches to get ROP pass the top edge of the door.
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Is your door hooked up to an opener? If it is disconnect and see if you can push the door up. Most doors you can push them up higher and then prop the bottom up while you go in or out> This is what I did to mine. I also forgot to push it up once backing out and had to straighen the bottom panel. I can move mine up about 3 inches so I have the full door opening to use
Do you think if I let enough out to clear it I could just leave it that way? I know in my former days of off-roading, less air = more traction. We would just air the jeeps back up before going down the highway. Would it hurt the drivetrain or the tires to have them aired down somewhat?
Grouse Feathers
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BX2370, FEL, Snowblower-BX5455, Homebuilt Forks, LP RB1560, LP GS1548
For only an inch, can you remove a piece of trim from the bottom of the door header to gain some clearance?
Instead of letting out air, how about adding weight? I have no idea how much 400 or 500 lbs on the 3 point would lower the ROPS but it might be close.
Instead of letting out air, how about adding weight? I have no idea how much 400 or 500 lbs on the 3 point would lower the ROPS but it might be close.
Removing trim wont work, it's hitting the main board. I am in the process of building a ballast box for the rear, just need to get some free time to finish up my welding, we'll see if that makes a difference. I hadn't thought of it.
I like the idea of trying some ramps for the front axle. Cut a 3-foot long section of 6x6 with a ramp on both ends so the tractor does a bit of a wheelie right as the ROPS gets to the door and then it's back down to ground level before the rear tires get to the ramps. Stop, kick the ramps aside, and finish driving in. This might give you just that little bit of clearance you need for getting under the header.
You could also laminate multiple layers of 2x6 or 2x8 cut to progressively shorter lengths to get just the right amount of lift for the front plus you wouldn't have to make angled cuts on a big block of wood. If you wanted to get really tricky, rig up a rope that attaches to the front of the tractor and the blocks at just the right length so it is slack while you drive over the ramps, then pulls the blocks ahead 4 inches after the tractor gets off of them. This would save you from getting off the tractor to move the blocks after you drive over them.
EDIT: I just remembered you have a front end loader on that tractor. You don't need ramps, you just need a wheeled dolly that you can set the loader bucket on and push down to raise the front tires off the ground and then drive forward. I suppose you could also get by with just skidding along on top of a few 2x4s, but that seems a bit barbaric.
You could also laminate multiple layers of 2x6 or 2x8 cut to progressively shorter lengths to get just the right amount of lift for the front plus you wouldn't have to make angled cuts on a big block of wood. If you wanted to get really tricky, rig up a rope that attaches to the front of the tractor and the blocks at just the right length so it is slack while you drive over the ramps, then pulls the blocks ahead 4 inches after the tractor gets off of them. This would save you from getting off the tractor to move the blocks after you drive over them.
EDIT: I just remembered you have a front end loader on that tractor. You don't need ramps, you just need a wheeled dolly that you can set the loader bucket on and push down to raise the front tires off the ground and then drive forward. I suppose you could also get by with just skidding along on top of a few 2x4s, but that seems a bit barbaric.
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as asked can you take a picture inside the garage, if it is not finished? A lot of times framing a garage you add a 2X flat on the bottom of the header. it is not needed for strength. you might be able to remove it and re-trim and be good. a lot of the time the garage door is up above the trim quite a bit.
Can someone please post a pic of the paperwork that says you can't modify a tractor unless you assume responsibility for the potential accidents of future owners? Seriously, mine didn't come with that.