1977, B7100DT with 219 FEL

[procraftmike]

Hello Everyone,

My first post. I am finally the proud owner of a Kubota. It is going to replace my 1971 Case 444. It will be used mostly for work on our hunting land. I purchased this about a month ago. It is sitting in my garage right now. I plan on doing some maintenance once it warms up a bit.

I have been purchasing the needed fluid and filters. I plan on doing a complete fluid and filter change on it, along with replacing the radiator hoses. I have not had a chance to really crawl around and check all the joints and tie rod ends yet, but I will

In addition to a total fluid and filter change, what other maintenance should I perform on this tractor? It has 2,000 hours on it.

Is there a way to inspect the condition of the clutch, without having to completely separate the tractor halves?

Are there any areas of this tractor that are prone to fail on this model, that I should pay some special attention too?

Thanks for any input in advance!!

 

[85Hokie]

Mike,

you seem to have a good handle on all the needs, fluid and filters and what not - in your neck of the woods, it might be a good idea to use a 5w-30 oil in engine, I like synthetic, others do not. I see it is a 4wd version, I am assuming it is a stick rather than HST? I would ride the clutch to see if it is in tune or not.

go here and get the books pertaining to your B7100 - now yours is considered "old" style as opposed to "new" style, the three part series that you see - It covers both I believe:

http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor Owners Manuals/

three parts and owners manual too!

your front wheels have 4 bolts in the pattern, not 6?

overview of your machine :

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1271-kubota-b7100.html

as far as problems, I have had mine for a couple of years, others have had theirs for a long time.

Here is the "biggest" problem - overheating. YOUR machine DOES NOT have a water pump, works off of thermosiphon - like a hot water heater in your house, hot water rises, cool water sinks, thus keeping the radiator clean is a huge must. Does your machine have the cover on it? Grill cover? Basically it covers the face of the radiator? Check your fan belt, make sure it is tight, make sure you loosen the bolt on the pulley face BEFORE tightening more......

This model is a true workhorse, several dozen members here have the B7100 - I think they too will swear by them!!!

o yeah - one last item..........

need pictures.....lot of pictures, us ol folks love them thar pictures!

 

[procraftmike]

Thanks 85!

Yes, 4 bolt front wheels and it is a manual tranny. I did some research on the thermosyphon system a few weeks back. It has a grill cover. The fan belt does need to be tightened, which I will do.

Thanks for the links to the manuals. I will see if there are any there that I don't have yet. It starts right up and runs like a top! It is my first diesel and I have been impressed with the power.

I have a new set of 6 ply, R1 front tires for it. The current 2 ply's just won't cut it. This tractor has the same rear tire size as my Case, so I will be swapping some tires around. I believe the rims are the same as well.

I just can't believe a tractor this old has zero leaks. Not a spot on my garage floor from a month of storage.

 

[OldeEnglish]

The B7100 is tough little tractor, I like to describe them as a big lawn tractor on steroids. When researching them before I bought one I recall reading somewhere that the steering is the weakest link on the tractor. I'm guessing this is seen far more with the tractors equipped with FEL's due to the added weight on the front end.

I would just to suggest that you use counter weight on the rear to take the extra stress off the front end. I know mine is a bear to steer with just a blades on the front without weight, I couldn't imagine a bucket full of weight.

Also check the rear hubs to make sure they torqued down good onto the axel shafts. I bit the bullet and replaced mine with better designed hubs. There are some other posts with a few good DiY fixes for worn hubs on here somewhere.

Besides that and what Hookie explained about keeping the radiator clean, you have yourself an old tractor that is tough to beat.

 

[Steve NC]

Congrats on your new to you tractor Mike. My B7100D is about the same age as yours. Over the years it has had very few problems. Most parts on it are still original. The radiator and the steering gear box have been the only areas of concern for my tractor. This tractor has been in my family since it was new. After 30+ years of use most of the tractor showed little wear and tear. The family decided they were done with the tractor a few years ago and wanted something newer and bigger after a family member's abuse messed up the engine, it overheated, he ignored the whistle and kept running the engine and cracked the head. The radiator was completely plugged up with trash. I rebuilt the engine last winter and became the sole owner. Before the tractor came to live with me it spent most of it's life outside and the bushing went bad under the steering wheel causing water to mix with the oil in the gearbox rusting out the bearings. The radiator needs to be kept clean inside and out to prevent overheating. I replaced the clutch when I rebuilt the engine. It was original as well. It still looked ok but since I had the tractor torn apart I replaced it. The one complaint I had with the tractor was the lack of gauges to tell me what the engine was doing so during the rebuild I added a set. The light for the oil pressure and whistle on the radiator overflow tube didn't give me enough security.

 

[procraftmike]

The common theme here seems to be cooling issues and the steering box. I have heard mention of both in my research since I acquired the tractor. Is the steering box a poor design, not adequate for a tractor with a FEL, or is it just a wear item? What should I watch for in this area? Should I be on the look out for a spare steering box?

What about the cooling, besides keeping the screen clean and the inside of the radiator clean, is there anything else that can be done to help with cooling? Any aftermarket items or modifications that can be made in this area? What is the chore or implement that makes these tractors work the most? I plan on getting a 4' brush mower for mine. Is that prone to making this tractor run hot? Is there a newer design radiator that cools better than the original? I have no idea the radiator condition of mine yet. When I change fluid, what can I do to assure the inside of the radiator is clean, or am I better off just replacing it right away?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far! You guys rock!!

 

[85Hokie]

Mike, under cooling you can lesson the 50-50 typical mix of antifreeze and go with 70-30 - water to ethylene glycol - as long as the mix is correct you will not freeze up north, the secret is that more water will cool a little better, now when I say a little, you might get 5 or 10 degrees cooler - I was a little paranoid and ran a temp gauge in the upper radiator hose - cost about 30 some bucks, well worth it to me. When I am running 3000 rpms and using the MMM - she will get to about 210 and stop, If I cut the MMM off, she will run all day at 180.....210 is a perfect temp, once it starts getting hotter, time to check the screen.
I notice in your picture that there is not "screen" in front, is this because the hydraulic pumps lines are in the way?

The screen is not a must - but does come in handy to stop most chaff.

 

[OldeEnglish]

If your radiator isn't leaking and your tractor isn't overheating, I don't believe a new radiator will benifit you at all. Don't get us wrong, if the radiator is clean inside and out it will work just fine. There are folks here out in the desert working these old tractors without any complaints. I ran mine pretty hard last summer brush hogging in 90 deg weather and it was fine. You just need to be religious about cleaning/degreasing the Finns after dusty work like mowing. Removing the radiator is actually fairly simple to do a deep soaking/cleaning. Change the coolant when recommended so it doesn't get all built up with sludge. A good flush of the engine side of the cooling system while the radiator is out will never hurt.

Don't worry about the steering box until something goes wrong, if it does parts are readily available. I've never rebuilt one but some members have and say it was not a big deal. Hanging a good 400 lbs off of the 3 pt hitch will counter balance any loads you pick up with with the FEL, which will reduce the amount of weight on the front end. Less weight on the front end will make it easier to steer therefore reducing wear and tear on the gears. Loading the rear tires is a must for added rear weight for traction and stability.

A block heater or inline coolant hose heater will make life easy while starting in cold weather. Don't forget to treat your fuel during the cold weather months so it doesn't freeze up on you.

Take care of the old girl and she'll take care of you

 

[procraftmike]

I notice in your picture that there is not "screen" in front, is this because the hydraulic pumps lines are in the way?

The screen is not a must - but does come in handy to stop most chaff.

Interesting, I was thinking I had the "screen" that you were referring too. In looking at your pics, I see what you are referring too now. I will have to look into possibly adding it, if it will help. I have only put about 5 minutes on this tractor since I purchased it. I want to do all of the maintenance before I start using it this spring. So, I have no idea if I will have any cooling issue or not, but I will remove the radiator for cleaning and clean the block out as well.

 

[85Hokie]

The screen just stops the big stuff, all the little stuff STILL gets in the front of the radiator!!!

Olde said "You just need to be religious about cleaning/degreasing the Finns after dusty work like mowing"

and the truth has never been said better!!! I think the fan sucks air so hard it will take a money out cha wallet and you'll never feel it!!!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The common theme here seems to be cooling issues and the steering box. I have heard mention of both in my research since I acquired the tractor. Is the steering box a poor design, not adequate for a tractor with a FEL, or is it just a wear item? What should I watch for in this area? Should I be on the look out for a spare steering box?

What about the cooling, besides keeping the screen clean and the inside of the radiator clean, is there anything else that can be done to help with cooling? Any aftermarket items or modifications that can be made in this area? What is the chore or implement that makes these tractors work the most? I plan on getting a 4' brush mower for mine. Is that prone to making this tractor run hot? Is there a newer design radiator that cools better than the original? I have no idea the radiator condition of mine yet. When I change fluid, what can I do to assure the inside of the radiator is clean, or am I better off just replacing it right away?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far! You guys rock!!

One thing to remember, these tractors were designed as rice patty tractors, hence why they don't leak very often, nobody wants motor oil or hydraulic oil in there rice.

That said they also didn't have a lot of dust and chaff to deal with, and being in water 90% of the time helped with cooling.
They also had very little use for a loader on these.

Yes they evolved rather quickly to adapt to a demanding small tractor market, that's why some things work really well and some things sort of work.

The over heating aspect and the steering "problem" aspect are sometimes just over exaggerated. I would say they are no more prone to issues than any other, it's just that they have the ability to work harder than they should be worked.
And yes most have steering issues because of overloading the front with a FEL with too much in the bucket.

Just keep the exterior free of chaff and junk and use 50/50 or less on the antifreeze side of things.
If your real worried about the heat, look up posts how to put a temp gauge on it.

 

[D2Cat]

NIW, did you mean temperature gauge? ..... "look up posts how to put a thermostat on it."

 

[85Hokie]

D2,

I thought the same thing! But knowing NIW - hell he might have a way to place a thermostat in the sucker!!!!

my gauge gives me a little piece of mind.

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, does that blue fitting (on your tractor) accept a mechanical sending unit? Is it a threaded port? Do you know what thread it is?

I keep talking about it, but I am going to do as you did and install a gauge.

If you can, send me a link to the purchase place for the adapter...please! I'm ordering it to get me motivated. Thanks.

NIW is probably too deep in mud to be thinking clearly!!!!

 

[kubotasam]

Another thing that can be done to help with overheating.
I have a 12 volt fan that I bought from ebay. I can tip the hood open and it will fit right in front of the radiator. Closing the hood holds it in place. If I am mowing on a really hot day I pop the fan on and power it with alligator clips from the battery. Real low tech. I have a water temp gauge on mine and it will drop the temp back by about 10 degrees. However I always blow out the radiator before I start.

 

[D2Cat]

Any one use one of these gauges?

I'm going to install a gauge on the B7100, and I thought this might be an added feature.

I install a high decibel horn on my tractors. It comes in real handy to get someone's attention while the tractor is running (I don't have to yell), or to get a critter to move!

I could hook the gauge to the horn to make sure I'm notified!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frank-W-Mur...ash=item1c59dab419:g:mHEAAOSwFnFWAFkn&vxp=mtr

Any opinions?

 

[85Hokie]

85Hokie, does that blue fitting (on your tractor) accept a mechanical sending unit? Is it a threaded port? Do you know what thread it is?

I keep talking about it, but I am going to do as you did and install a gauge.

If you can, send me a link to the purchase place for the adapter...please! I'm ordering it to get me motivated. Thanks.

NIW is probably too deep in mud to be thinking clearly!!!!

D2,

here is the one I ordered :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-34MM-WAT...ash=item235f116c92:g:zOYAAOSwNyFWchTZ&vxp=mtr

not sure what the exact pitch of threads are - 1/4 npt? or maybe 1/8"

I used a very simple gauge too - it threaded in with little problem.....

HERE is the big problem.....the freaking radiator hose - the standard hose on my radiator had been on 20+ years and would NOT come off.......I knew that before I ordered anything...........

and the standard hose had low sweeping 90 degree angle ......I bought a new hose from Messicks, shipping was high- but what the hell, had to have it.

Their hose has a more tight 90 angle.

I wanted to cut the hose only once if you know what I mean!!!

It all came together, then when I realized that the temps would only get to about 150.....I knew I screwed up!!!! I didnt NOT ground the alum T - that do make a small difference!!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

NIW, did you mean temperature gauge? ..... "look up posts how to put a thermostat on it."

D2,

I thought the same thing! But knowing NIW - hell he might have a way to place a thermostat in the sucker!!!!

my gauge gives me a little piece of mind.

Oops! Yep went back and fixed it.

Yep 85Hokie, I did it in my B7100! It's super easy to put a thermostat in the b7100... Yank the D750 out and replace with a D950!

 

[Steve NC]

Mike, your tractor has its screen in place on the radiator. I can see the Kubota name plate in the picture. The newer hydro tractors have a much larger and more visible screen that also covers an oil cooler for the transmission. The ones on the older gear drive tractors are much flatter and stay closer to the radiator. If you open the hood, there should be a wing nut in the upper corners of the screen that hold it in place. Loosen them to lift out the screen for cleaning. As long as the cooling system works as it should you shouldn't have to worry much about it overheating.

 

[procraftmike]

Thanks everyone for your help and expertise here. I finally got a chance to work on the old girl for a few hours tonight. I got the oil drained and new filter installed. I didn't realize so much was involved with changing the oil filter...lol.

As usual, you start one project and discover another issue. I went to tighten the fan belt tonight and realized the bearing on the adjustment pulley has a little play in it. I removed the assembly and have the pulley off now. I will remove the bearing (need my snap ring pliars at the cottage) to see what size it is. I will replace the fan belt as well, since it seems old.

Is there any maintenance that is required on the steering gearbox? Does it have fluid that can be changed?

Thanks!!