B5100E Low Oil Pressure at Idle

[North Idaho Wolfman]

85Hokie,
I do believe the second generation of the B7100 had already had the "fix" done to them at the factory.
But it never hurts to manually check it with a gauge, 1/8 BSPT.

 

[Steve NC]

I used a oil pressure tank to check my b7100 when I suspected the plug fell out of its cam shaft. I borrowed it from a local engine machine shop. It held two quarts of oil. One hose connected to the hole used for the sending unit and the other hose connected to the hose from my air compressor. I set the regulator to 40psi. The two quarts of oil disappeared in less than 30 seconds. After the oil was gone I could hear the air inside the front of the engine. I tore the front off and sure enough the plug was gone. Before with the engine running I had just enough pressure to make the needle on the gauge move, with the engine reved up I had about 20psi. After welding in a new plug my oil pressure jumped to 20 psi at idle and 55psi at full throttle.
If you do a search on youtube you can see a video of someone else that did this repair on a b7100 and a l185 search for Kubota camshaft plug repair

 

[achtuning1]

Hello everyone,
I wanted to thank everyone for their input.
At this time, I ordered the parts do to the camshaft plug repair from messicks. I am not the most mechanical person, but I believe I can tackle this small project with your help. In addition, my friend who is a diesel mechanic offered me some assistance as well (she’s telling me it’s a pretty straight forward repair). In the meantime, the tractor is parked until I get the components from messicks.
This morning I went out and took a few photos to share with you. It looks like it might be best to remove the hood, the radiator, air intake and side panels to make the job a little easier. Since I never tackled this kind of project on my own before, I wanted to share my thought process with you guys first.
After removing the hood, side panels, and air intake, I assume it is best to probably drain the fluids (anti-freeze and oil) since they have to come out.
Once the fluids are drained, I can then proceed to remove the radiator and hoses (held on by the two bolts shown in the below photos?) as well as the upper and lower hoses. I also order two new hoses and 4 new clamps since they are getting older now.
Once those items are removed, there looks to be a spring that connects to the throttle lever that needs to be removed.
Once the above items are done, how do I get to the camshaft? There are videos on here for an L series but mine is slightly different.
I guess I have to remove the water pump housing and the belt tensioner? My tractor is also equipped with a front PTO. Does this have to come off to get to the camshaft plug?
In addition to the camshaft plug, I ordered a new oil seal, camshaft gasket, new radiator hoses (upper and lower), 4 new clamps for the hoses, 10W-30 oil, oil filter, radiator fluid and degreaser to clean up the oil of the engine block.
I am a little nervous to start the project since this happens to be one of my favorite toys, but I think the odds are working in my favor with all of your help as well as my friends.
I will also be taking photos of my progress for all of you that own a b5100 or b6100 tractor.
Thanks for viewing !

 

[achtuning1]

ok so maybe the water pump doesn't need to come out? Anyone ever have any experience with this particular model?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Kyle,
There is no water pump, just a dynamo, and yes it will need to come out, it blocks the top bolt on the gear case cover.

You do need to remove the whole front of the engine, it's called the gear case, on a car it would be called a timing chain/belt/gear cover.
If you haven't done so yet go to Kubotabooks.com and download the three part service manual.

Pull the throttle plate and remove the spring

Remove the Dynamo, the bottom bolt will put up a good fight!

Pull all the bolts and Crank shaft pulley to remove the case (do not mess with the Aluminum shield covering the bolt for the governor adjustment.

When that is all off, look at the front center of the right gear there will be a plug missing.

Note:
There is also a rear plug in the cam shaft which would require a lot more disassembly to get to it.

 

[D2Cat]

Kyle, we have a problem here.......your hands are not dirty enough or scared up enough to be doing this type of operation. You need dirt and scrapes, please call your assistant!!

Hey, remember the old saying, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." Same here. You won't have a problem. Just go step by step.

If you have a problem with what bolts go where.... get a piece of Styrofoam (or cardboard) and just push the bolts into it in the shape of the part you're removing.

 

[Daren Todd]

Kyle, a pair of 22° offset needle nose pliers makes removing and installing the governor and throttle springs easier.

If you don't have access to a welder to tack weld the plug after install. You can clean the opening where the plug goes really well with degreaser on a rag, acetone, or your preferred solvent. Then coat the plug in Hi temp/hi strength loctite before tapping it into the hole in the camshaft. The goal is to have no oil residue between the camshaft and the plug so the loctite can set up and harden. After installing the plug, wipe off the excess. Let the loctite cure for 24 hours before starting the tractor if you go that route.

 

[achtuning1]

D2Cat,
Now you have me concerned…

You are telling me I should be fine yet my hands aren’t scarred and dirty enough. Which one is it? I do my own preventative maintenance on my cars and trucks but this is something new to me.

I just like to know what I am getting myself into in advance, hence all of the questions. By the way, I know scars… This is just one of my more recent ones lol. : )

Kyle

 

[achtuning1]

Hey Daren!
Thank you for the reply! Do I have to use the loctite? Messicks is telling me that the new style plug has threads. Thank you again!

Kyle

 

[achtuning1]

also i like the idea of the 22 degree pliers. Should make the installation of the spring a little easier

 

[Daren Todd]

Hey Daren!
Thank you for the reply! Do I have to use the loctite? Messicks is telling me that the new style plug has threads. Thank you again!

Kyle

It wouldn't hurt to use some loctite on it. I would consider it added insurance I did my repair last spring and the plug they sent me was smooth sided. Looked like an aluminum version of a Rollo candy

 

[achtuning1]

ok cool! do you have a particular brand that you recommend? Thanks!

kyle

 

[Daren Todd]

Most of them are good. I get permatex brand from o'rielys, and have had good luck with it. I've used the loctite brand in the past. It costs a little more, but seems to work the same as the permatex. Pretty much any auto parts store is gonna have a form of it, and will work just fine.

 

[D2Cat]

That picture of your hand looks like Daren's latest dog got a hold of you!

 

[achtuning1]

Hey Everyone,
So I ordered the parts to perform the repair, but after looking over the exploded drawings that North Idaho Wolfman provided me with, I think there might be a few more things I should add to the order…

O-Rings shown in the third drawing marked #3
Gasket in the third drawing marked #13

Also, since my tractor has the front-end PTO, that item needs to come off. After pulling it though, there looks to be a nut behind it holding the crankshaft on. Does anyone know what size nut that is so that I can get the proper socket?

D2Cat, my hand is doing much better but I am unable to move that finger now. It’s a little more difficult now picking up small bolts

 

[Diydave]

Hey Everyone,
So I ordered the parts to perform the repair, but after looking over the exploded drawings that North Idaho Wolfman provided me with, I think there might be a few more things I should add to the order…

O-Rings shown in the third drawing marked #3
Gasket in the third drawing marked #13

Also, since my tractor has the front-end PTO, that item needs to come off. After pulling it though, there looks to be a nut behind it holding the crankshaft on. Does anyone know what size nut that is so that I can get the proper socket?

D2Cat, my hand is doing much better but I am unable to move that finger now. It’s a little more difficult now picking up small bolts

Kyle

IIRR, its 37 mm. Nut really isn't torqued real tight, you haveta bend the locking washer, to get the wrench on, though...

 

[achtuning1]

Great! Thanks for your help. I'm just waiting on the receipts from messicks so that we can confirm the parts that I ordered.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[chickenfriend]

For this same repair, I ordered the cam plug 15261-96860 and the dealership send me the aluminum one, rather than the steel one.

Consequently, I am ordering the part 15261-96880 and am hoping this will get me the steel plug.

 

[Daren Todd]

I installed the aluminum one. But used hi temp/ hi strength loctite. Been three seasons now and no issues

 

[chickenfriend]

Thanks.

Is there a step in the cam oil galley which stops the plug from going in too far, or, is the plug tapered, or is the galley tapered?