rkidd
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B2650, FEL With QA 60"mmm, 3pt FDR1672,homemade ballast box, BB 1572 box scraper
My Kubota Cab
- Thread starter gregger
- Start date
The build was done at my work during the seasonal winter shut-down late November through December last month.2 comments,,, First that is a very well thought out cab and nicely built
Secondly,, Dude that is one hell of a play room you got there,, is that your garage or is that work shop,,
and Thanks for the nice comments. I was always thinking two steps ahead.
I gave up trying to find some that matched the black door handle, and settled on chrome ones from Zoro.com, $5 each?? Im doing a removable window for joystick side. Ill have an armrest for summer bush-hogging..
Nice job on the cab.I like to see posts like your's.I can relate to the thinking/time etc; that you've put into building your cab.Very nice.
Thanks for the very nice comments and feedback;
Yesterday I installed the hoses for the windshield washers and hooked up a small 4 or 5 inch 2-speed fan at the left rear, to help circulate the heat from the coolant heater around the inside cab.
I was sort of hoping Paul Short would also chime in here with a couple comments. -It always surprised me with his ingenuity that he had not built a decent cab for his BX25D
But I'm sure he will.
-Greg
Yesterday I installed the hoses for the windshield washers and hooked up a small 4 or 5 inch 2-speed fan at the left rear, to help circulate the heat from the coolant heater around the inside cab.
I was sort of hoping Paul Short would also chime in here with a couple comments. -It always surprised me with his ingenuity that he had not built a decent cab for his BX25D
But I'm sure he will.
-Greg
Paul, only uses his BX25D, for summer work. He has a big 5740 Grand L, for winter work to stay warm in.
A couple more photos, showing the Cab Heater hose attachments location plus a couple of the Tool Box I'm installing in the cab.
I did hook the heater hoses into the Water Pump bypass fittings, I simply loosened the two spring clips and pried/twisted the short hose off the barbed fittings. I used 5/8" heater hose from the heater up under the lower cowling into the engine area, then using copper plumbing fittings, made a reducer with 1/2" copper pipe & reducer to 3/8", then ran short pieces of washing machine hookup hose from the reducers to the Kubota bypass fittings with hose clamps. I used tie straps to hold the hose along the air filter tubing to prevent kinking, and the foam pipe insulation shown, is simply to keep the hose clamps from rubbing on the fuel injector lines. This all worked very well, and since it gets it's flow before the thermostat, begins to produce heat as soon as the engine is started, as it warms up.
The Tool Box is a 7.62mm Army Surplus Ammo Box, measuring approx. 4"W X 12"L X 10"H. I originally bought a 50cal ammo box, however it was 6" wide, and slightly too wide, with having my rear aux. Hyd. valve in that area. I made a simple slide-in clip to hold the box in place, and it can be removed easily. - Works perfect. Photos were before painting, I'll paint it orange soon.
It works great to hold my spare shear pins, fuses, and basic tools, grease rags and extra gloves.
I did hook the heater hoses into the Water Pump bypass fittings, I simply loosened the two spring clips and pried/twisted the short hose off the barbed fittings. I used 5/8" heater hose from the heater up under the lower cowling into the engine area, then using copper plumbing fittings, made a reducer with 1/2" copper pipe & reducer to 3/8", then ran short pieces of washing machine hookup hose from the reducers to the Kubota bypass fittings with hose clamps. I used tie straps to hold the hose along the air filter tubing to prevent kinking, and the foam pipe insulation shown, is simply to keep the hose clamps from rubbing on the fuel injector lines. This all worked very well, and since it gets it's flow before the thermostat, begins to produce heat as soon as the engine is started, as it warms up.
The Tool Box is a 7.62mm Army Surplus Ammo Box, measuring approx. 4"W X 12"L X 10"H. I originally bought a 50cal ammo box, however it was 6" wide, and slightly too wide, with having my rear aux. Hyd. valve in that area. I made a simple slide-in clip to hold the box in place, and it can be removed easily. - Works perfect. Photos were before painting, I'll paint it orange soon.
It works great to hold my spare shear pins, fuses, and basic tools, grease rags and extra gloves.
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I don't mean to be critical, but, where's the kegarator.....
In all seriousness, OUTSTANDING JOB........................
In all seriousness, OUTSTANDING JOB........................
Maybe I'm getting carried away, but I had my wife shoot a little YouTube clip of my BX25D with the cab, clearing snow in my driveway this week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odSOiKO0BwY
Works so good, it's actually fun.
-Greg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odSOiKO0BwY
Works so good, it's actually fun.
-Greg
Grouse Feathers
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Greg
Do you get any vibration raising your snowblower that high. That's a lot of deflection for universal joints. You are a little better off than a front blower, because the 3 point keeps the blower relatively level when it raisers versus a front mount that tilts the blower. I make it a point to just raise my front mount blower enough to get it off the ground to keep it from vibrating.
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Larry, the only time I get a vibration (from binding) is when I raise the rear blower to the max lift on the 3pt hitch, which is probably still another 3 inches more than I was doing it in the vid. I keep the U-joints and slide area on the shaft well greased too.
-Greg
I've added a couple little "refinements" to my Kubota Cab last week, I've read the threads regarding the advantages of wheel spacers for extra stability, especially after installing a cab. So I did order a set of 1.5" ones, and now have them installed, easy install, kit came with the extra lug nuts, and I do like the finished look. I've posted a couple photos of the spacers, and I will get a photo of the finished stance later this week.
Secondly, thanks to our Princess Auto Surplus store (close to Tractor Supply in stock), they has some discontinued mirrors, so I bought one for the inside, which I fabbed mounts attached to my switch panel. -This dang mirror even came with digital clock and compass!! -for the grand price of $4.99! Last week I went browsing the store again, and they had sweet half-moon wide angle adjustable mirrors, only 4" X 2", which I mounted atop each door outside. From my seat, I now have a good view along the sides behind me, and having the small profile, should not get knocked off easily - Oh yes, - They were the princely price of $3.99 each.
Photos will show how they look.
-Greg
Secondly, thanks to our Princess Auto Surplus store (close to Tractor Supply in stock), they has some discontinued mirrors, so I bought one for the inside, which I fabbed mounts attached to my switch panel. -This dang mirror even came with digital clock and compass!! -for the grand price of $4.99! Last week I went browsing the store again, and they had sweet half-moon wide angle adjustable mirrors, only 4" X 2", which I mounted atop each door outside. From my seat, I now have a good view along the sides behind me, and having the small profile, should not get knocked off easily - Oh yes, - They were the princely price of $3.99 each.
Photos will show how they look.
-Greg
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Greg,
I didn't see a parts list (hinges, latches, wipers, etc). I live in Alaska and stumbled upon your build researching a cab build for my L2501. I know you got your glass done locally, and it sounds like it was relatively inexpensive. I had been looking at commercial available items, but that may be a solution.
Well documented build, if you have any more specifics on parts that would be greatly appreciated!
Corey
I didn't see a parts list (hinges, latches, wipers, etc). I live in Alaska and stumbled upon your build researching a cab build for my L2501. I know you got your glass done locally, and it sounds like it was relatively inexpensive. I had been looking at commercial available items, but that may be a solution.
Well documented build, if you have any more specifics on parts that would be greatly appreciated!
Corey
Thanks, Corey.
As far as a parts list, It was all scratch-built using 2 lengths of 1" square steel tubing, 3 lengths of 3/4" square tubing, one sheet (4' X 8') 1/16th sheet steel, bought from our local branch steel wholesaler Russel Metals.
-All steel was less than $400. The glass, I had professionally installed by a local auto glass shop Speedy Auto Glass. This was the most expensive part, totalled $1000 for all 10 pieces of 1/4"Tempered Safety glass,installed in the rubber. All they required was a 3" radius in my steel (I used the inside of a Masking Tape roll).
-The Door Hinges were hand made by me, simply from short pieces of 1.5" X 1/4" flat steel, 3/8" pipe, and some 3/8" X 4" bolts.
-The two Door Latches were simple Aluminum Storm Door latches, all of $6.99 each.
-The rear removable glass panel latches were simple stretch rubber hood latches like you would find on a storage box or tractor hood -All of $3.99 each, the panel is hung in place on simple 'L' hooks at the top.
-The Windshield Wipers (Front & Back) were aftermarket kits bought on Amazon, just search "Wiper assembly", I believe 1700 of them popped up! The one I chose was listed as a Hotrod/Jeep Wiper kit--and only $51.00 each.
-The Universal Windshield Washer kit was also through Amazon, has two spray tips (But I installed a second pump in the tank for independent use), was only $27.00
-The LED lights were also from Amazon, couple different suppliers, but they are super bright, very efficient, and all together, the 7 Light units were less than $150.00
-The 4 little LED Amber Flashing units came from an E-Bay supplier from China, the whole kit with all plug connectors and 3-pattern switch module was only $33.00, landed here in Atlantic Canada.
-I chose the smallest 5000BTU coolant Heating Unit available, for space and fit. It does put out enough heat and fan power to keep all glass defrosted and I can operate without gloves in the winter. I could have chosen a bigger unit with two speed fan and more output ports, but size and money dictated the one I chose. -It was $120
-All the switches, fuse units, and circuit breakers were bought locally from our Discount/Surplus store.
My total cost in this cab runs me approx. $1700, taking me approx. 4 weeks to build in my tinkering time. Compared to the cost of a Factory build purchase of $5800 at my local Kubota dealer, I'm very happy with my choice to build.
That's all I can think of right now, anything else I can help you with, either size dimensions or methods, please ask,
Thanks,
-Greg
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Wow Greg,
Thanks for the detailed response. I called the local glass company. They one do laminated safety glass, (no curve) but do regularly do boats and other heavy equipment. Hopefully the cost well be closer (or cheaper!) They quoted 15$ - 17$ a SQFT. I just purchased a Miller Dynasty 210DX and hope to put it to good use.
Thanks for getting me stated on the path! Hope this summer well be productive, last winter (digging it out of Fairbanks Alaska ice was no fun).
Corey
Thanks for the detailed response. I called the local glass company. They one do laminated safety glass, (no curve) but do regularly do boats and other heavy equipment. Hopefully the cost well be closer (or cheaper!) They quoted 15$ - 17$ a SQFT. I just purchased a Miller Dynasty 210DX and hope to put it to good use.
Thanks for getting me stated on the path! Hope this summer well be productive, last winter (digging it out of Fairbanks Alaska ice was no fun).
Corey
Wow that look amazing, you dd a fantastic job. I just wondering if you looked into off the shelf glass, like you can get windshields for semi tractor trailer for $45, perhaps some smaller ones as well, might be cheaper than the custom built, and replacement factor.