What kind of engine oil??

[jcato]

There are times that 20 hour oil change would be correct. If the engine< in whatever> did not see much use and sat a long time. Like 20 hr use in 2 years. Any eng that has oil in it should be changed at least once a year. Condensition in the winter builds up moisture in side.

So, would the logical time to change the oil be in the spring (assuming winter being the 'off' season) - rather than at the beginning of cold weather (i.e. new oil sitting in the crankcase throughout the winter - gathering moisture)??

My sense would tell me to crank up when warm weather returns - not any heavy use, just warm up things and then drop the (old) oil.

Make sense?

-- john.

 

[NC Bota]

So, would the logical time to change the oil be in the spring (assuming winter being the 'off' season) - rather than at the beginning of cold weather (i.e. new oil sitting in the crankcase throughout the winter - gathering moisture)??

My sense would tell me to crank up when warm weather returns - not any heavy use, just warm up things and then drop the (old) oil.

Make sense?

-- john.

I have always gone by the standard to change oil at least twice a year. Four times/year for more expensive engines. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. For about $20 in oil/change you provide additional protection for your engine. As a minimum I would change the oil in the fall and again in the spring, even if the tractor was not used at all in the winter months.

Just my humble opinion.

Mark

 

[ipz2222]

jcato, that is how I do mine.
ncbota is ok too, just costs more.

 

[kuboman]

Dirty used oil sitting in an engine over the winter is dynamite. The acids in the oil work on the engine components and cause corrosion. Change the oil at the end of the season and then run it in the spring.

 

[jcato]

Dirty used oil sitting in an engine over the winter is dynamite. The acids in the oil work on the engine components and cause corrosion. Change the oil at the end of the season and then run it in the spring.

My 'sense' notwithstanding, your precise point occurred to me after my previous post.

Then this thought occurred to me: my plans on my next oil change is to go to the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel synthetics, but, if the tractor is used lightly during the winter months, maybe drop the 'good' oil in the fall and refill with a conventional oil (Wal-Mart or, even, Rotella) to get one through the winter months (of light use (and, possibly, not even change the filter)) and then go back to the synthetics (with a new filter) in the spring when heavier use is forthcoming.

That may get too crazy - a pint of old, synthetic (in the filter) with new conventional (dino) oil in the rest of the crankcase...

... (this is my first year with a Kubota - but I've somewhat done the 'two-a-year' thing with the riding lawnmower (been running pure synthetics in this for several years))... and I figure the winter use on the 'bota *is* going to be light - so it would seem somewhat a waste to put 10 or 20 hours (if that) on the synthetics (over the winter), when it's capable of enduring a whole lot more. (but I completely understand leaving old, acidified oil in the crankcase over the winter).

... and I'm sure there are viewpoints about going back and forth between dino and synthetics every 6 months.

Just my usual 'get in trouble for' thinking out loud <g>

-- john.

 

[kuboman]

My 'sense' notwithstanding, your precise point occurred to me after my previous post.

Then this thought occurred to me: my plans on my next oil change is to go to the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel synthetics, but, if the tractor is used lightly during the winter months, maybe drop the 'good' oil in the fall and refill with a conventional oil (Wal-Mart or, even, Rotella) to get one through the winter months (of light use (and, possibly, not even change the filter)) and then go back to the synthetics (with a new filter) in the spring when heavier use is forthcoming.

That may get too crazy - a pint of old, synthetic (in the filter) with new conventional (dino) oil in the rest of the crankcase...

... (this is my first year with a Kubota - but I've somewhat done the 'two-a-year' thing with the riding lawnmower (been running pure synthetics in this for several years))... and I figure the winter use on the 'bota *is* going to be light - so it would seem somewhat a waste to put 10 or 20 hours (if that) on the synthetics (over the winter), when it's capable of enduring a whole lot more. (but I completely understand leaving old, acidified oil in the crankcase over the winter).

... and I'm sure there are viewpoints about going back and forth between dino and synthetics every 6 months.

Just my usual 'get in trouble for' thinking out loud <g>

-- john.

Best to change a oil and then stick with it. As for light winter use, that will not harm anything and I would continue to use it into the summer. What causes the problems is when an engine sits for extended periods with dirty oil, the acids from combustion have a chance to work because the engine is not being run.

 

[Sam427]

My 'sense' notwithstanding, your precise point occurred to me after my previous post.

Then this thought occurred to me: my plans on my next oil change is to go to the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel synthetics, but, if the tractor is used lightly during the winter months, maybe drop the 'good' oil in the fall and refill with a conventional oil (Wal-Mart or, even, Rotella) to get one through the winter months (of light use (and, possibly, not even change the filter)) and then go back to the synthetics (with a new filter) in the spring when heavier use is forthcoming.

That may get too crazy - a pint of old, synthetic (in the filter) with new conventional (dino) oil in the rest of the crankcase...

... (this is my first year with a Kubota - but I've somewhat done the 'two-a-year' thing with the riding lawnmower (been running pure synthetics in this for several years))... and I figure the winter use on the 'bota *is* going to be light - so it would seem somewhat a waste to put 10 or 20 hours (if that) on the synthetics (over the winter), when it's capable of enduring a whole lot more. (but I completely understand leaving old, acidified oil in the crankcase over the winter).

... and I'm sure there are viewpoints about going back and forth between dino and synthetics every 6 months.

Just my usual 'get in trouble for' thinking out loud <g>

-- john.

Why not just leave the oil in it and change the filter? Since the sky is falling, you better change out the trans fluid while you are at it, because it builds up way more condensation than the engine oil will, and it will rust every part in it. It's just getting too complicated to own a tractor these days.

In all seriousness, Kubota already figured all of this stuff out for you, just follow the hours they recommend, or maybe change once a year if it doesn't get many hours of use. Find something else to worry about instead of changing the oil before it needs it.

 

[Bulldog]

Then this thought occurred to me: my plans on my next oil change is to go to the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel synthetics

Good effort on trying to do the best for your Kubota and wanting to run synthetic oil. After you try the mobil synthetic oil for a while if you want to see the difference then go over to Amsoil. The first time I changed it in my L 3000 I didn't even have their best oil in it I was changing from 10w30 mobil 1 over to 10w30 Amsoil. The difference showed up as soon as I cranked the engine the first time with Amsoil in it. About 2 or 3 seconds after the start up The sound of the engine changed. It was noticably quieter. The rest of the benefits came with use, better fuel economy, cooler running, cleaner oil at change time and ect. All I can tell you is that there is a difference in synthetic products but the best test is to see it for yourself.

I have the Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel 5w30 in all my diesels now and it has given me even better results than the 10w30 did.

 

[Joe Kelly]

I agree the synthetics are better, as they can be manufactured with the great properties that make them superior, properties that are difficult to add to dino lubes to try and acheive the same results....but the high cost has always been a factor for me.

Longer drain intervals are usually necessary to help "sell" synthetic oil and I can see that for gasoline engines. Or any high performance hot running application such as racing where premium engine oil is required and the cost doesn't matter.

Diesel engines are "dirtier" than gasoline engines as the very high compression ratios for compression ignition result in more blow by and the resulting contamination of crankcase oil.

But for us "run of the mill" types that want to do the right thing for our tractors but have to live within a budget, I feel following the Op Man is the best way to go.

I use Shell Rotella T 10W30 and change engine oil and filter every 100 hrs per Kubota's Op Man.

I like Amsoil and started using it in tiny engines....like my Honda 4 stroke brush cutter that sees a lot of hot and long duty at full throttle......and I'll change that engine oil once per year (season). Cost is not a factor since the amount used is so low.

As for the tractor that sees light, all year use (less than 200 hrs/yr) I just can't justify going to oil that is many times the cost of the dino.

My oil change costs $20 per with the Rotella, a brand I trust for quality.

That oil change would cost $88 with the Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.

If you doubled the interval to 200 hours (which I would never do)....the cost remains pretty high at $44 vs $20

So, while I can appreciate the value of synthetic oil, you sure can't do any better for your engine, and Amsoil is one of, or perhaps, THE best, I feel it is "over kill" in my case.

JoeK

 

[Sam427]

I agree the synthetics are better, as they can be manufactured with the great properties that make them superior, properties that are difficult to add to dino lubes to try and acheive the same results....but the high cost has always been a factor for me.

Longer drain intervals are usually necessary to help "sell" synthetic oil and I can see that for gasoline engines. Or any high performance hot running application such as racing where premium engine oil is required and the cost doesn't matter.

Diesel engines are "dirtier" than gasoline engines as the very high compression ratios for compression ignition result in more blow by and the resulting contamination of crankcase oil.

But for us "run of the mill" types that want to do the right thing for our tractors but have to live within a budget, I feel following the Op Man is the best way to go.

I use Shell Rotella T 10W30 and change engine oil and filter every 100 hrs per Kubota's Op Man.

I like Amsoil and started using it in tiny engines....like my Honda 4 stroke brush cutter that sees a lot of hot and long duty at full throttle......and I'll change that engine oil once per year (season). Cost is not a factor since the amount used is so low.

As for the tractor that sees light, all year use (less than 200 hrs/yr) I just can't justify going to oil that is many times the cost of the dino.

My oil change costs $20 per with the Rotella, a brand I trust for quality.

That oil change would cost $88 with the Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.

If you doubled the interval to 200 hours (which I would never do)....the cost remains pretty high at $44 vs $20

So, while I can appreciate the value of synthetic oil, you sure can't do any better for your engine, and Amsoil is one of, or perhaps, THE best, I feel it is "over kill" in my case.

JoeK

What kind of Kubota do you have that the engine oil needs to be changed at 100 hours? Most are 200 hours on engine oil.

 

[Bulldog]

I agree the synthetics are better, as they can be manufactured with the great properties that make them superior, properties that are difficult to add to dino lubes to try and acheive the same results....but the high cost has always been a factor for me.

Longer drain intervals are usually necessary to help "sell" synthetic oil and I can see that for gasoline engines. Or any high performance hot running application such as racing where premium engine oil is required and the cost doesn't matter.

Diesel engines are "dirtier" than gasoline engines as the very high compression ratios for compression ignition result in more blow by and the resulting contamination of crankcase oil.

But for us "run of the mill" types that want to do the right thing for our tractors but have to live within a budget, I feel following the Op Man is the best way to go.

I use Shell Rotella T 10W30 and change engine oil and filter every 100 hrs per Kubota's Op Man.

I like Amsoil and started using it in tiny engines....like my Honda 4 stroke brush cutter that sees a lot of hot and long duty at full throttle......and I'll change that engine oil once per year (season). Cost is not a factor since the amount used is so low.

As for the tractor that sees light, all year use (less than 200 hrs/yr) I just can't justify going to oil that is many times the cost of the dino.

My oil change costs $20 per with the Rotella, a brand I trust for quality.

That oil change would cost $88 with the Amsoil Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.

If you doubled the interval to 200 hours (which I would never do)....the cost remains pretty high at $44 vs $20

So, while I can appreciate the value of synthetic oil, you sure can't do any better for your engine, and Amsoil is one of, or perhaps, THE best, I feel it is "over kill" in my case.

JoeK

Hi Joe,

I can understand your position on the high cost of Amsoil but you're not looking at the total picture. I have a perfect example for you to think about and may make you think twice before you consider Amsoil to be overkill.

I just did some hay for a customer of mine in a new location. I wanted to track my cost as close as I could as well as keeping up with my total hrs. I mowed for 21 hrs with my M 9000 and Kuhn GMD 700. Using my L 3000 with a roll a bar rake and my 9000 with Vermeer 504 baler it took a combined 42 hrs to rake and bale everything. This farm was very hilly and some of it very rough which led to the long run time. Just to clarify on how steep some of the hills were they had to be cut, raked and baled in 4WD so it was slow.


After it was all said and done I ran the two tractors a combined time of 63 hrs and they burned 67 gallons of fuel between them. This figures out to 1.06 gph. burn rate. My 92HP M 9000 ran for 42hrs mowing and baling and 32HP L 3000 ran 21 hrs raking. I really don't have a clue what the GPH would be without the Amsoil but this is what it took with it. I feel like 1.06 is very good. Maybe some of the other here on OTT that use petrolium oil can chime in with their fuel consumption doing similar work. I don't have any doubt that using Amsoil saves me more in fuel cost than what the cost of the oil is.

My L 3000 is a 2000 model and the M 9000 is a 2004. I change my oil one time per year in both tractors and have done them this way since they were new. Both of them look and run good. Don't burn any oil and have never let me down. You can see them in my photo album. I have quite a few pics of both of them working. Look at the exhaust in the pics. There is no oil smoke puffing out and no blow by either. I feel like the engines on both of them are as good as new. Sam427 has seen them in person and can verify their condition so you don't have to just take my word on it.

There is more to consider about Amsoil than just the initial cost. It will give you more for your money every time. I didn't just start using it for the hell of it. I had to be converted over from a brand that I trusted all my life and was very happy with. The performance I recieved from actually using Amsoil is what made me change. I have never found another oil that can out perform Amsoil but if you know of one I would like to hear about of it.

 

[Joe Kelly]

Hi Sam427,

I've a 5030, model year 2004 I believe, which I got used but the book came with it and the maintenance schedule calls for engine oil replacement every 100 hours and the oil filter every 200 hours. But I change the oil filter every 100 when I change the oil.

JoeK

 

[Joe Kelly]

Hi Bulldog,

You make a very compelling case for the Amsoil synthetic, with good data to back up your findings! You've got me thinking hard on it......

You are taking advantage of synthetic's longer drain intervals, which allows for lower cost, even competitive cost of oil changes....heck, in some cases synthetic can be cheaper than petro oils based on change out intervals.

But that's where I get cold feet....I fear the contamination that gets in the oil from combustion blow-by. It seems from your good experience that Amsoil synthetics can handle the "dirt" and protect the engine for prolonged drain intervals...which is a plus just from the convenience stand point....fewer times of getting out the oil pan, tools, rags etc, to slide under the tractor...

And your analysis of fuel use adds a side I never thought about. You do real work with your tractors and fuel economy is a factor! The 5w30 came along way back....perhaps 20 years now....when car engine oils were all pretty much standard 10w30. Then the push for better EPA fuel economy saw the introduction and nearly universal acceptance of 5w30 engine oils. I think a lot of us "older" diesel generation types still believe in only 15w40 for diesels, but that perception is certainly dated and not applicable today to todays diesel engines.

Again, I learned a lot from your input, along with so many others here posting at OTT!

JoeK

 

[Bulldog]

Hi Joe,

I'm glad that you are thinking about more than just the cost of oil now. When you look at the big picture things really change. If the initial cost is all that was concidered the nobody would use synthetic pruducts.

I understand your concern about running oil longer than normal. The first time I did this I felt like a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. I thought I was going to wear the dip stick out checking the oil. I was amazed at how the oil stayed clean for so much longer than ever before. After the first time passed by it was much easier to accept and know extended drain is a way of life.

The man that first introduced me to Amsoil is a very good friend of mine who I had alot of respect for and had known him for years. The subject of oil came up one day and he said I should try Amsoil. I had never heard of it and was very satisfied with the Mobil oil I had grew up using. He said that he would order me a oil change and let me try it for myself and that if I couldn't tell any difference that I could have the oil for free. Needless to say he was paid back for the oil change.

My friend has several tractors and put well over 200 hrs per year on them and doesn't even keep up with the hrs. He has the date marked when it was changed and goes by that. In his Mack dump truck he runs the oil for about 50,000 miles between changes. He has over 800,000 miles on the engine and has never had to pull the pan off. Anyone who is familiar with big truck will understand how unusual that is. I know several people who have OTR trucks and they roll a new set of bearings in about every 200,000 or so just as their PM routine.

I'm glad that you found what I posted to be informative. All I am trying to do is let my orange brotherhood see what Amsoil has done for me and how it help to make my life easire as well as save money. I try to keep my postings to be from my own experience as much as I can that way I can say for sure that it happened the way I say it did and there is no hear say involved. I hope my experience can and does help out and keep our stuff on the road as long as possible.

 

[kuboman]

All this synthetic/dino talk got me to thinking back to when I got a VW diesel. VW recommended 15-40 which I tried until winter when I switched to 0-30 semi-synthetic. The difference in engine performance and mileage was like night and day. Engine revved easier had more power and went allot farther on a gallon. Needless to say I never went back to the 15-40 and ran that engine 200k and it never used a drop and ran perfect when I sold it.
All this rambling brings me to the synthetic debate. A light synthetic will still protect your engine just fine but give you the advantage of the lighter oil. Can't say I have ever been a real fan of heavy oil since the advances in oil technology have made the old idea you need sirrup to protect your engine outdated.

 

[BigSteve63]

Gents,
I work for a lubricants distributor, selling several products from most of the majors. There are benefits to be had from the synthetics and synblends; I didn't believe too much of the hype until I witnessed test results that back it up. If switch to a full or blended synthetic, you and your engine will never regret it. You can find a distributor in your areas that can test your engine oil for you for ~10-15 bucks. You will get a very detailed look at wear metals, contaminants, etc. Test your current oil, then test after switching to the synthetic; you will see a difference. If you are worried about leaving the oil in service for an extended drain interval - just change the filter and top off!

 

[Bulldog]

I'm glad to hear some more stories about when eyes were opened to synthetic oil and the benefits it will give. It's harder for some people to kick the old school habits that we were taught most of our lives. People seemed to be amazed when Mobil 1 gave them a 15,000 mile oil change couple of years ago. Mobil seemed so proud of their self and got people to start talking about the idea of running oil longer than normal change intervals.

Amsoil had a 25,000 mile oil in 1972. They are the old pro when it comes to synthetics and all the rest of the Big Oil producers are playing catch up. I'm happy that there are some more of my orange brothers starting to come around and see the difference/advantage of using synthetics.

 

[digdug]

wow! Some really great information on engine oil. Does anyone have information or recomendation for the oil filter?

 

[kuboman]

wow! Some really great information on engine oil. Does anyone have information or recomendation for the oil filter?

Go to your Kubota dealer and buy Kubota filters, may not be the cheapest but likely better than most.

 

[Sam427]

wow! Some really great information on engine oil. Does anyone have information or recomendation for the oil filter?

I use all Napa Gold filters on my L3410 GST.

BD, it might interest you to know that Wix makes most of Amzoils filters. They also make the Napa Gold.