Im going to start a thread here that has sparked many a heated reply about "ENGINE OIL" on the Harley sites I use. In these little diesel motors what is the best oil to use? I have been using M1 15W50 in my Harley since it was new 10 years ago, with no problems,, Now with little orange is M1 15W50) good to use OR is there something else that SHOULD be used. I know the dino oil has been around since forever and has worked admerably, but I am rather sold on the sync oils. Ok guys let get it on, I have tractor oil to change,,lol
What kind of engine oil??
- Thread starter skeets
- Start date
Aw hell your about to spart another blazzing wildfire here on OTT with this very post. I used Shell Rotella 15W40 in mine and have had good luck with it and its affordable most of all.
Whatever you use, make sure it is designed for diesels. I use Shell Rotella 15w-40 as well.
Let the feud begin!
Let the feud begin!
Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel 5w30 for your Kubota.
Amsoil Synthetic motorcycle oil 20w50 for your Harley.
I run Amsoil in everything from my R/C cars to my M 9000.
Two stroke, engine oil, trans fluid, trans/hyd oil, gear oil, gas treatment, spray lubricants and protectants, filters and grease. I have and use it all. I even have some Amsoil car polish, it all works good.
Amsoil Synthetic motorcycle oil 20w50 for your Harley.
I run Amsoil in everything from my R/C cars to my M 9000.
Two stroke, engine oil, trans fluid, trans/hyd oil, gear oil, gas treatment, spray lubricants and protectants, filters and grease. I have and use it all. I even have some Amsoil car polish, it all works good.
Rotella T6 Synthetic is what I run in my bota its a 5w-40. It is a group 3 syn which is in reality a dino just severly hydrocracked (ultra pure and refined). It does have a good does of PAO and esters though which are a group 5 (true synthetic) It is a great oil, but as long as you stay with a HDEO your good to go weather synthetic or conventional, delo, shell, rotella, delvac pick a flavor your good....
Last fall I switched my L3010 over to Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine oil. It seemed to start easier this last winter, and was able to idle quicker with the clutch pedal released.
I plan to change the hydraulic fluid over to Amsoil as well. It's supposed to run cooler, and should also help in the winter by flowing easier.
Bob
I plan to change the hydraulic fluid over to Amsoil as well. It's supposed to run cooler, and should also help in the winter by flowing easier.
Bob
Either of the above --- Amsoil or Shell. I'll reinforce the point to change oil more often than than Kubota recommends --- I change mine (including the filter) every 20 hours. I like clean, fresh oil.
20 hours? I would have to change oil every two or three days at that. The schedule Kubota has is just fine, many tractors last tens of thousands of hours on that schedule. By changing oil prematurely you are also adding to the waste oil pollution we have to deal with. In fact, my oil is still pretty much clean at 20 hours.
Yeah 20 hours is a bit much. I'm like Sam I'd have to change my oil ever other day if I did it at 20 hour intervals. I use my tractor in a business where I log 12 to 14 hours a day on it. I'd never get any work done if I had to stop every 20 hours and change oil, and I'd damn sure would never have any money chaing it that soon.
If my oil was dirty enough to need changing at 20 hrs I would be wanting to know what was wrong with my engine. At 20 hrs my oil still looks like it did when I poured it in.
aquaforce
New member
Equipment
L245DT FEL, JD450 Track loader, 5' scrape blade&mower, 5x10 trailer, Dump truck
1. You should use an oil weight that is recommended by the mfgr.
2. If the engine has flat tappets then it will need a high concentration of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous) which is almost impossible to find.
The oil that most diesel users grabbed for years was Rotella because it had the highest amount of the scuff reducers that high compression and flat tappets needed. Once the gubbment legislated this out of oil, well very low amounts now, problems resulted as most oil mixers complied with the gubbment.
Now you will have to get an additive or run a synthetic to subsidize the needed elements for older engines.
NAPA got me some Rotella 30WT high performance oil that was "CF" rated. If you can get "CF" rated oil it will have the good mix for older engines.
The newer engines with all roller valve train don't need "CF" rating. A good 30WT oil is fine for the new engines.
Here is one additive that is supurb!!!!!! It has all the good stuff. If you have any old cars/trucks this stuff is what they need.
Well I can't find the pic of the bottle so I'll just tell you what it is..........GM "Engine Assembly Lubricant" formerly known as E.O.S. (engine oil supplement). EOS is on the bottle but that is the only reference as to the early product. It is virtualy the same but has been repackaged etc to satisfy gubbment garbage. Most any GM dealership has this in stock. If not they can order it.
2. If the engine has flat tappets then it will need a high concentration of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous) which is almost impossible to find.
The oil that most diesel users grabbed for years was Rotella because it had the highest amount of the scuff reducers that high compression and flat tappets needed. Once the gubbment
legislated this out of oil, well very low amounts now, problems resulted as most oil mixers complied with the gubbment. Now you will have to get an additive or run a synthetic to subsidize the needed elements for older engines.
NAPA got me some Rotella 30WT high performance oil that was "CF" rated. If you can get "CF" rated oil it will have the good mix for older engines.
The newer engines with all roller valve train don't need "CF" rating. A good 30WT oil is fine for the new engines.
Here is one additive that is supurb!!!!!! It has all the good stuff. If you have any old cars/trucks this stuff is what they need.
Well I can't find the pic of the bottle so I'll just tell you what it is..........GM "Engine Assembly Lubricant" formerly known as E.O.S. (engine oil supplement). EOS is on the bottle but that is the only reference as to the early product. It is virtualy the same but has been repackaged etc to satisfy gubbment garbage. Most any GM dealership has this in stock. If not they can order it.
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Will In Tx
New member
Equipment
L3400 HST/FEL, Box Blade, RTV 900 Camo, ZD323 Zreo Turn Pro Mower + More
You can still get the Rotella in CI-4+, but you have to buy it in drums. I stocked up when I saw it coming, have some pales still sitting around.1. You should use an oil weight that is recommended by the mfgr.
2. If the engine has flat tappets then it will need a high concentration of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous) which is almost impossible to find.
The oil that most diesel users grabbed for years was Rotella because it had the highest amount of the scuff reducers that high compression and flat tappets needed. Once the gubbment
Now you will have to get an additive or run a synthetic to subsidize the needed elements for older engines.
NAPA got me some Rotella 30WT high performance oil that was "CF" rated. If you can get "CF" rated oil it will have the good mix for older engines.
The newer engines with all roller valve train don't need "CF" rating. A good 30WT oil is fine for the new engines.
Here is one additive that is supurb!!!!!! It has all the good stuff. If you have any old cars/trucks this stuff is what they need.
Well I can't find the pic of the bottle so I'll just tell you what it is..........GM "Engine Assembly Lubricant" formerly known as E.O.S. (engine oil supplement). EOS is on the bottle but that is the only reference as to the early product. It is virtualy the same but has been repackaged etc to satisfy gubbment garbage. Most any GM dealership has this in stock. If not they can order it.
the new diesels are still high on zddp, so dont fret yet they havent reduced it that much yet, look at the cf versus cj rotella 5w-40 not a lot of difference. The amsoil hdeo are still plenty high also they havent changed.
There are times that 20 hour oil change would be correct. If the engine< in whatever> did not see much use and sat a long time. Like 20 hr use in 2 years. Any eng that has oil in it should be changed at least once a year. Condensition in the winter builds up moisture in side.
