Starting Issue Help Needed

[MBA Farm Boss]

I am a new owner of a used L2550 for the last couple of months and it has been running and starting fine until this morning. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the ignition switch, but I wanted to seek some more advice first. When trying to start it this morning, I tried to turn it over, but nothing happened when I turned the switch. I tried again, and then it started turning over very slowly and then I turned the key to the off position, but it was still trying to turn over on its own. It continued this way with the key completely out and the switch in the off position. The battery is brand new (3 weeks old). I assume it would be smart to replace the ignition switch, but is there something else I should look for/at? I'm not too mechanically inclined as well (see screen name), but I think I could do an ignition switch if that's it. If so, would any tractor parts supplier have this part? It's a 1991 model. Any help is appreciated. I'm new to farm and tractor life and need it up and running again soon. I'm in PA and it's pretty cold. TIA.

 

[85Hokie]

I am a new owner of a used L2550 for the last couple of months and it has been running and starting fine until this morning. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the ignition switch, but I wanted to seek some more advice first. When trying to start it this morning, I tried to turn it over, but nothing happened when I turned the switch. I tried again, and then it started turning over very slowly and then I turned the key to the off position, but it was still trying to turn over on its own. It continued this way with the key completely out and the switch in the off position. The battery is brand new (3 weeks old). I assume it would be smart to replace the ignition switch, but is there something else I should look for/at? I'm not too mechanically inclined as well (see screen name), but I think I could do an ignition switch if that's it. If so, would any tractor parts supplier have this part? It's a 1991 model. Any help is appreciated. I'm new to farm and tractor life and need it up and running again soon. I'm in PA and it's pretty cold. TIA.

Based on what you describe - I would think it is the switch too - especially if you remove the key and there is still current flowing to the starter! You can spent time "testing" the switch - but if bad then testing it will take more time than replacing - I would expect the switch to be in the $50-$100 range! or more !!!!!!!!!!

here is one !

http://www.messicks.com/partdetail/32430-31820.aspx

I would unhook the battery until you have a chance to find the true solution!

 

[Dave_eng]

I looked at a wiring diagram posted by another owner of the same machine.
It looks to me like you have an ignition switch problem. It also looks like there is a wiring harness plug that can be separated to disconnect the ignition switch.
If it wont stop cranking, I would disconnect that harness plug and if the cranking stops you have your culprit.

You could also buy a cheap test light at an automotive supplier and check for power on the small wire on its own terminal on the starter. It should be black. That terminal should only have power when the key is turned to the start position.

Provide an update for more comments.
Dave M7040

 

[MBA Farm Boss]

Thanks for the help guys. Just wanted some other thoughts. And yeah, I disconnected the battery as soon as possible.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep bad switch!

 

[Tooljunkie]

A common thing i saw was bad /weak or discharged batteries fusing the starter solenoid. Another common issue was a damaged starter solenoid from over zealous tightening of cables onto solenoid. Either way its easy to test.

 

[mickeyd]

welcome to the forum. A lot of great people here and now one more.

 

[Diydave]

I would second the notion of a fused solenoid. Low voltage causes solenoid to hang in, hence the motion, after the key is off. I would first charge up the battery, while it is charging, clean and tighten all connections, and have the solenoid off, and see if it is cooked. Then test the battery, which is the likely culprit, all along...

 

[kubotasam]

I agree with the others that say it is the solenoid. They arc and stick the contacts together. It could be the key switch but check the solenoid first.

 

[MBA Farm Boss]

I would second the notion of a fused solenoid. Low voltage causes solenoid to hang in, hence the motion, after the key is off. I would first charge up the battery, while it is charging, clean and tighten all connections, and have the solenoid off, and see if it is cooked. Then test the battery, which is the likely culprit, all along...

Ok, guys, I replaced the ignition switch and jumped it off and it started fine. It sat for 2 days and I went to start it again, and nothing happened. Started by getting jumped off again. Does this sound like the solenoid issue referred to in this discussion? If so, does anyone have some more details how to identify this is truly the problem? Again, I've never owned a tractor before but I don't want to have to jump it off every time I need to use it. Any help is greatly appreciated. And as I stated, the battery is brand new.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Follow the negative battery cable to where it mounts to engine or frame, remove and clean cable end and where it contacts frame.clean or replace bolt .let us know what transpires.

 

[Jim L.]

Sounds like a back to basics.

I would check the electrical connections for good contact. You may have hidden corrosion or fouling.

Even though a new battery, I'd take it in and get it load tested. Should be free.

New batteries should be slow charged at time of installation. A full charge will increase the battery life. Every farm needs a battery charger and small compressor for tires.

Check the alternator and confirm that it is charging the battery. (Clamp on ammeter, or take it in for bench test.)

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If the new battery check out in a load test try this.
Jump from the positive to the starter and see if it starts if it does it has a bad + cable.
If not that tray again jumping from battery negative to ground and if that starts you have a bad - cable.
If neither pull the starter and get it tested, it's probably bad.