I am having a problem with the bucket not curling after dumping. 3 point, steering and raise and lower OK. Bucket will work after I drag it on the ground while backing up and putting control in curl up position. Works OK for one cycle then have to do everything over. Problem started after I got stuck and used bucket to push out. Any idea what to look for? I am at best limited mechanically.
L2350 Kubota/L400 Loader hydraulics?
- Thread starter Fredmanning
- Start date
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
No problems with rams. When it does work, it's very smooth and strong. I took rams apart to check seals and all is OK. Only change made recently was new quick connect couplings at controler, had to use snow plow units as Kubota parts were not available. Could this be the problem?
Did the problem start when you changed the quick coupler? If so that would be the first place to start looking.
Changed back to original couplers and all worked well for three hours, then loader would not lower. Have any of you opened the access holes on top of the control body between the four quick couple ports? acts to me like something is not right inside the controler, a seal or valve maybe.
When it started acting up again did you notice a different feel in the controls? Does it still feel smooth or can you tell any change at all?
Just out of curiousity do you park it outside or is it covered? Has it been rained on more than normal?
The former owner of my old B 7100 would leave it out all the time. He had no respect for this poor little orange machine. I had trouble with my loader controls. It had water get down around the plunger the linkage is hooked to and rusted the inside up bad. After a thurough cleaning and lube I never had any more trouble.
Just out of curiousity do you park it outside or is it covered? Has it been rained on more than normal?
The former owner of my old B 7100 would leave it out all the time. He had no respect for this poor little orange machine. I had trouble with my loader controls. It had water get down around the plunger the linkage is hooked to and rusted the inside up bad. After a thurough cleaning and lube I never had any more trouble.
Butch
Active member
Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
Bulldog you just hit the nail square on the head.... The loader valves collect water and corrode in the spring/detent housing caps on the bottom of the spools...
It causes 99% OF ALL PROBLEMS WITH THE LOADER VALVES....
It causes 99% OF ALL PROBLEMS WITH THE LOADER VALVES....
That is exactly what happened to mine. The spring looked like one that was dug out of a sand box.Bulldog you just hit the nail square on the head.... The loader valves collect water and corrode in the spring/detent housing caps on the bottom of the spools...
It causes 99% OF ALL PROBLEMS WITH THE LOADER VALVES....
People wonder why I give them the finger when they ask why I don't let my tractors stay outside and park my truck in the shed. To many places for water to get on a tractor and cause big $$$ in damage and down time. If I can help it mine never stay out in the weather.
Tractor is kept inside most of the time, had all apart I could get to with my limited knowledge and find no sign of rust problems, spring is in excellent condition. I am going to play around with the quick connects today to rule them in or out. When I try to raise loader, hoses move as if preasurized but oil can't circulate properly. could be a defective connector does not allow oil to flow?
It depends on which lines you are refering to on the movement. Some will move when you work the loader.
It does sound to me like you have some sort of flow problem. If I remember correctly you said that you have already swapped from one set of couplers to another set already. I could see one set being bad but two in a row would sure be rare.
I still can't help but wonder if something didn't get bent or damaged when you were stuck? It sucks that you are going thru all this but I believe we may get to learn something on this one when you do get it fixed.
Keep us posted with your progress.
It does sound to me like you have some sort of flow problem. If I remember correctly you said that you have already swapped from one set of couplers to another set already. I could see one set being bad but two in a row would sure be rare.
I still can't help but wonder if something didn't get bent or damaged when you were stuck? It sucks that you are going thru all this but I believe we may get to learn something on this one when you do get it fixed.
Keep us posted with your progress.
BACK IN BUSINESS!!!
I finally solved the problem. I found several of the little metal pieces inside the quick couplers that had become dislodged in the course of my fiddling with them. Some have a solid bar to support the spring, others have three prongs on them. The ones with the single bar seem to move easily when removed and taken apart as I did. They must be reassembled very carefully. When they are not in perfect location, reconnecting the quick coupler will damage the three prong ones, they are soft and will bend into a cup shape and will not open the caps enough to allow oil flow. After hours of hunting and straightening and careful reinstallation, I got it back together and operating perfectly. My only cost was one male connector for $28.00, a roll of teflon tape, a gallon of oil and an eighty mile trip to get the part.
If you ever have this problem, you must take apart both halves of the coupler to make sure all the spring support pieces are properly aligned. This can somtimes be checked by pushing on the pin inside the coupler to feel if it moves freely. As I have said before, I ain't a mechanic but if I think about a problem long enough I sometimes get lucky as this time. I was beginning to think I would have to take the tractor to the dealer to get it fixed.
I finally solved the problem. I found several of the little metal pieces inside the quick couplers that had become dislodged in the course of my fiddling with them. Some have a solid bar to support the spring, others have three prongs on them. The ones with the single bar seem to move easily when removed and taken apart as I did. They must be reassembled very carefully. When they are not in perfect location, reconnecting the quick coupler will damage the three prong ones, they are soft and will bend into a cup shape and will not open the caps enough to allow oil flow. After hours of hunting and straightening and careful reinstallation, I got it back together and operating perfectly. My only cost was one male connector for $28.00, a roll of teflon tape, a gallon of oil and an eighty mile trip to get the part.
If you ever have this problem, you must take apart both halves of the coupler to make sure all the spring support pieces are properly aligned. This can somtimes be checked by pushing on the pin inside the coupler to feel if it moves freely. As I have said before, I ain't a mechanic but if I think about a problem long enough I sometimes get lucky as this time. I was beginning to think I would have to take the tractor to the dealer to get it fixed.
