Easy fuel filter change method

[Burt]

L3700SU, L3800, L3400, L3200 Kubotas do not have a fuel shutoff. Some may but it is rare.

Here is an easy way to change the diesel fuel filter:

1. Locate the fuel line from the tank and remove it.
2. Put a 5/16" shoulder bolt in the opening of the fuel line to stop the leak.
3. Change your fuel filter using new o-rings (bought separately).
4. Fill the fuel filter with diesel.
5. Put the filter back on and back it off one full turn.
6. Start the engine, let some fuel flow over the filter housing.
7. Tighten the filter.

Let it run. If you did it right, there is no need to bleed the injectors. It will take off purring like it should.

Kubota left off a shutoff valve but this method works great and your tractor will thank you for it.

Burt

 

[trouble11]

Good Tip, Thanks Burt.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Burt,

If you use a line clamp, you don't have to take off the fuel line. Once the line clamp is released after the filter is changed, the filter bowl fills up faster than it takes you to go get on and start it.

The dealer uses vice grips on the fuel line, set loosely...

 

[Burt]

Burt,

If you use a line clamp, you don't have to take off the fuel line. Once the line clamp is released after the filter is changed, the filter bowl fills up faster than it takes you to go get on and start it.

The dealer uses vice grips on the fuel line, set loosely...

CCR,

I thought of using the vise grips and later thought maybe not. I am rural and if I busted or damaged a hose, I'd be in very deep yogurt to go get another one. For that reason, I didn't use the redneck shutoff valve.

Thanks for the reminder, others use that clamping method successfully though.

Burt

 

[Daren Todd]

I use a pair of channel locks on the ones at work. Just set the new filter in easy reach location. Loosen the old filter to where I can spin it off by hand. Crimp the line, remove the old filter, spin the new one on and release my grip on the channel locks. And then finish tightening the filter by hand. Takes all of thirty seconds to swap the filter. Just keep on old pail handy to drop the old filter in.

 

[Eldubya]

I find it much easier to simply clamp lines with vise-grips, but if/when it's too thick, brittle, or flimsy, a golf tee usually works great. Always have a couple in my tool box.

 

[Lil Foot]

These work pretty well also.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-line-clamp-set-97578.html

 

[Bluegill]

If I read the manual right, you wait until the tank is less than half full and it
wont leak much when you change the filter. I just used vise grips on the fuel line...

 

[kevin47881]

These work pretty well also.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-line-clamp-set-97578.html

Use those on gasoline and diesel engines alike. Great tool and minimizes causing damage to the lines. If not available, just cut a coke can in half and use each half on the vice grips to prevent them from damaging the hoses.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

That is the tool I use. I watched Edd on Wheeler Dealer use them so much, I bought a set. Very handy items.

 

[Bulldog]

My tractor didn't have a shut off either. During the first filter change I ran the tank almost empty. While changing the filter I removed the line and drained the tank. After this I installed a inline shut off valve and solved this issue for good.

 

[Burt]

If I read the manual right, you wait until the tank is less than half full and it
wont leak much when you change the filter. I just used vise grips on the fuel line...

Bluegill,

You're right. That is what the manual says. Drain it when less than half full. However, I like to keep ours full no matter what because I know a partially full tank can encourage moisture. For that reason, I decided to do it the way I did.

However, I am going to get some of those line clamps at HF fer sure.

All great advice from many. I would not have thought of the golf tees.

Maybe the K company will start putting shut offs on these tractors. It's strange that the shop manual seems to show a shutoff valve on top of the filter.

Anyway, It's done now and I have some good info for the future.

Thanks to all,

Burt

 

[coachgeo]

...

However, I am going to get some of those line clamps at HF fer sure....

IMHO it's a waste of time to stop there. Put a clamp on it. Do two slices of a hose, pop in an inline shut off valve where you cut a chunk of hose out and then your done with it.

Next filter change you wont be looking for where you put the damn fuel line clamps etc etc.

 

[ShaunRH]

I have a self locking plier set that has jaws to act as a line clamp. Works great. Won't damage the lines and works up to garden hose size.

Installing your own shut off valve is nice but now you have to maintain a shut off valve.

I could've sworn I saw a shut off valve on my L3200... I'd want to have that as an emergency shut off anyway. That's how my D-17 shuts down normally, kill the fuel!

 

[Bluegill]

Owned 4-5 tractors and the L3800 is the first not to have a fuel shut off valve.

 

[Bluegill]

I have a self locking plier set that has jaws to act as a line clamp. Works great. Won't damage the lines and works up to garden hose size.

Installing your own shut off valve is nice but now you have to maintain a shut off valve.

I could've sworn I saw a shut off valve on my L3200... I'd want to have that as an emergency shut off anyway. That's how my D-17 shuts down normally, kill the fuel!

What is involved in maintaining a shut off valve?

 

[Bulldog]

What is involved in maintaining a shut off valve?

I was wondering the same thing...

Unless something bad happens I only use my shut off once a year. Been doing fine since 2000 when it was installed.

 

[ShaunRH]

What is involved in maintaining a shut off valve?

I guess not much if it's a high quality, diesel rated valve, but if you buy an el-cheapo, it could mean replacing seals or the valve itself on a regular basis.

Having replaced several shut off valves in my life, I can tell you they can go bad.

 

[D2Cat]

Ya, a shutoff valve fails about as often as a valve core! Every convenience has it's cost.

 

[Billdog350]

Hey guys, a couple of comments on fuel filter changes, including the L3200.

1. Start your machine and run it for a while, get it fairly warmed up and ensure oil is properly circulated, shut it down normally.
2. Open rack to WOT-full throttle position.
3. Change fuel filter. On the L3200 I believe there is an automatic shut off built into the fuel filter housing, when you remove the filter it should shut off the fuel. If you spin it off pretty quickly, you shouldn't lose much fuel.
4. Install new filter, spin on the bowl somewhat slowly so you can see the air bubble out of the housing before you have the 0 ring contact the housing from the bowl, this bleeds out 95% of the air.
5. Start the machine and let the engine take off to high rpm. Since you already started it and warmed it up with step 1, it is all pre-lubed and there is no damage done to the motor. This is exactly how almost all commercial diesel generators start (even from a cold start) and have no adverse wear issues.
6. After approximately 30 seconds, bring rpm back down to 1/2 throttle and either start using the tractor or shut it off if you're done.

The high rpm start will allow your engine to build up some inertia from the initial start with the fuel that's in the injector pump, so if there was a little air bubble, it would cause the engine to stumble but it will usually recatch and keep running.

I have used this procedure on hundreds of Kubotas and never had to bleed an injector/injector pump.

I also do it on my B9200 and it works mint.