I have the Construction Attachments one touch third function valve. I have installed it just like the videos and it works my grapple great. From the beginning I have had fuse problems, it will blow a fuse almost every time I use it. This is the electric over hydraulic valve. I only has two wires to mess with, one to power and the second to frame ground. It is wired to a red/white wire in the Kubota MX5100 just like the instructions and the ground to frame near the unit. This is the second one I have had, the company sent me a new one after relating this problem before. I have talked to the engineer and he is at a loss. I have checked for frayed wires, nicks, increased the fuse to30amps instead of 20amps. Completely changed out the power wire connections, moved the ground wire, still blows fuses. What else can I try, I love this grapple. What is the principle that causes to fuse to blow? any help will be greatly appreciated.
3rd Function valve blowing fuse
- Thread starter Crystal Lake
- Start date
I think that maybe the question is when.
When the fuse blows, is there a pattern to use or position? Is there something internal that is shorting?
If you can read DC amps it would help.
If it is a short spike, then a slow blow fuse might help. Or, replace the fuse with a DC circuit breaker that has a long time curve when you know the proper size.
Briefly try a 40A fuse and see if it blows. Don't want to fry anything, just a feel for how much current is flowing at fuse blow.
May take awhile to nail down.
When the fuse blows, is there a pattern to use or position? Is there something internal that is shorting?
If you can read DC amps it would help.
If it is a short spike, then a slow blow fuse might help. Or, replace the fuse with a DC circuit breaker that has a long time curve when you know the proper size.
Briefly try a 40A fuse and see if it blows. Don't want to fry anything, just a feel for how much current is flowing at fuse blow.
May take awhile to nail down.
Solenoid valves will draw very high current if they stick and do not pull in all the way when energized. The chances of you getting two bad valves in a row is very slim though.
I cannot ID a time associated with the fuse blow. It just seems to work fine, then the next time I need it the fuse is blown.
What switch are you using, and where/how is it mounted?
Fuses blow because of excessive current draw, and the solenoid should be drawing about 5 amps or so.
Fuses blow because of excessive current draw, and the solenoid should be drawing about 5 amps or so.
Switch is mounted on hydro control lever. Not sure of brand seems like cobra or something. Came with one touch system.
North Idaho Wolfman
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So this is the replacement grip with a 3 position rocker switch on it? Or a single momentary pushbutton? You said it's a "3rd function valve" but it only has two wires?, that would be more typical of a diverter setup that diverts the dump/curl circuit to your grapple. True 3rd function valves would need 3 wires usually, one ground and two hots so you can change the direction.
Maybe something in there is shorting to ground possibly, you could try to remove the handle so it's not touching anything metal and see if it still blows the fuse.
I would test the solenoid only for amp draw. My guess is its not sokenoid but the switch or wiring/connections to switch. Seems that using lever and not activating switch is whats blowing fuse.if its not blowing while using it, its something else.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Unlike a fuse that just blows, a circuit beaker will give you a chance to find out what action you did that caused the short or if it's just random.
I'd be putting a thermal reset breaker on that puppy. I think that is what NI Wolfman is also recommending. It will not 'blow' until there is enough current to cause a heating reaction and then it decouples until it cools down and then resets. These are common on big rigs and heavy equipment.
You buy it for the amperage ratings of your wiring, that's the idea of the fuse, to protect the wiring and circuits of the device.
If you keep tripping that breaker, you have a big problem with the device. It is possible to get multiple bad solenoids, especially if the company that makes it ordered them on the cheap from Zeng-Cheapo Electronics, China.
You buy it for the amperage ratings of your wiring, that's the idea of the fuse, to protect the wiring and circuits of the device.
If you keep tripping that breaker, you have a big problem with the device. It is possible to get multiple bad solenoids, especially if the company that makes it ordered them on the cheap from Zeng-Cheapo Electronics, China.
A couple of things I would look for:
At any time when you depress either up or down button on the joystick do both lights on the new solenoid light up at the same time? You may need a extra set of eyes for this.
Make sure that the coil is firmly seated on the solenoid shaft, it should not slide up or down at all.
After using the 3rd function control valve like you have been doing, reach down and physically touch the coil housing, it should be warm to the touch or as warm as the hydraulic fluid running through the valve but no hotter.
In the electrical part of the video he just cuts off extra wires coming from the joystick, he didn't insulate them with electrical tape. If there is even the slightest chance that the switching wires inside the button head makes contact there with these wires to the other end inside the solenoid body and or electrical cover, that would create a dead short. Hope you at least insulate these wires.
At any time when you depress either up or down button on the joystick do both lights on the new solenoid light up at the same time? You may need a extra set of eyes for this.
Make sure that the coil is firmly seated on the solenoid shaft, it should not slide up or down at all.
After using the 3rd function control valve like you have been doing, reach down and physically touch the coil housing, it should be warm to the touch or as warm as the hydraulic fluid running through the valve but no hotter.
In the electrical part of the video he just cuts off extra wires coming from the joystick, he didn't insulate them with electrical tape. If there is even the slightest chance that the switching wires inside the button head makes contact there with these wires to the other end inside the solenoid body and or electrical cover, that would create a dead short. Hope you at least insulate these wires.
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Ohhkaay. Were any wires cut off and not terminated? If any connections were made, what type of wire connector device was used? Are the wires stranded? Any sharp edges next to any wires? Connections staggered so they can't come into contact if loose? Any crimp connections - were they tested by pulling on them for mechanical pullout? Flying wires - out in the breeze - are the ends covered with shrink tubing?
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Unlike a fuse that just blows, a circuit beaker will give you a chance to find out what action you did that caused the short or if it's just random.
So will proper troubleshooting technics and a ohm meter. If the trouble is blowing a 20 and 30 amp fuses as stated in the OP, then a circuit breaker will not help find it IMHO.
NI Wolfman is probably referring to the ability to keep watching what he's doing with the controls and seeing if it causes the problem. It's hard to do that kind of testing with a meter. The best way to troubleshoot stuff like this is to actually run the device and see when it happens.
I agree, the easiest way to find an electrical fault is by isolating what causes it.hard wiring past the fuse is the quickest but the most destructive. And risk total loss due to fire. So a circuit breaker will trip when the action that causes the short will arise. Maybe its not related to control at all. Unless it has a circuit all to itself.
Third function valves like I'm using only have a two position switch to open and close an implement like a grapple. Any suggestions on an inline circuit breaker, should I get auto reset or manual. Mount it inline or on panel within easy reach. Short always is intermittent and is always ok once new fuse is put in. Crazy hard to find this type problem.
Hard to find a short that blows a 30 amp fuse with a meter? Really? I guess we should advise him to just replace the fuse with bigger and bigger ones until the wires melt, maybe put a .22lr or a nickel in its place? That will surly find the fault.
Two position swith? It has to be three position.,ON-OFF-ON so the solenoid is not powered all the time. The two ON positions should be momentary also.