well, i did it...

[tow2topgun]

Found my oil filter screen. Removed it and the drain plug. The screen was a mess! The magnetic drain plug had a LOT of metal sludge on it, which was expected. Got the filter cleaned up pretty good and still letting her drain.
On that screen assembly, how to actually remove the screen? There is a small bolt head at the end but it just spins. Won't loosen or tighten.

The oil filler cap calls for 30 weight oil. What do yall think about running a 30W with detergent in it to help clean it up a little? I only plan to let it run for maybe 30 minutes and then drain it again.

 

[traildust]

The oil filler cap calls for 30 weight oil. What do yall think about running a 30W with detergent in it to help clean it up a little

I have always stayed away from the detergent types for a neglected engine. The reason being is it will go in and wipe out an awful lot of the sludge and gunk pretty fast.

The problem now is you will have a huge sunami of this stuff released at once and it can overwhelm the engine. The best thing to do is just increase the frequency of oil changes thus slowly purging that crap out of there.

Scott

 

[tow2topgun]

Thanks Scott and that is what I was thinking. I'll get that gunk out of her one way or another!
Also, is there a difference in 30W oils? Meaning is there a gasoline engine 30W and a seperate 30W for diesel motors?

 

[traildust]

Thanks Scott and that is what I was thinking. I'll get that gunk out of her one way or another!
Also, is there a difference in 30W oils? Meaning is there a gasoline engine 30W and a seperate 30W for diesel motors?

The 30W should be a diesel oil. If in doubt look at the back of the container and look for the API rating. If it's diesel it will start with a "C" as in CJ-4 and various others. If the specifications begin with "S" stay away from it. The "S" is for ignition engines. Easy way to remember is "S = spark plug"

If you have any oil containers laying around look at the API raitings and you will see what I mean.

Scott

 

[John C]

Here's an API oil guide chart in PDF
http://www.burkeoil.com/pdf/oilguide.pdf
I like Scott's S = Spark Plug explanation and it holds true except in the case of some premium oils which have both classifications!

John

 

[traildust]

Here's an API oil guide chart in PDF
http://www.burkeoil.com/pdf/oilguide.pdf
I like Scott's S = Spark Plug explanation and it holds true except in the case of some premium oils which have both classifications!

John

Hey John,
That's a really great information link! Thanks for following up with that.


Scott

 

[Butch]

In any used tractors that I have purchased I have made sure that I had a GOOD assessment of the condition of the engine, purged it over a couple three close frequent oil changes... looking closely at the drained oil. If I spotted little or no problems I switched to using Mobile Delvac 1, a synthetic.

Given the connections I have in the petrochemical analytical lab world... I sent my used oil out for analysis. Similiar to what long haul truckers do on a periodic basis. Based on the results... I swear by the Delvac. Given my engines were in good shape to begin with... the Delvac reduced wear (filings) by 75%+ and the heat disapation under load was increased at least 25%.

But just one note... I started with pretty tight engines to begin with; if yours has been abused cleaning it up to run efficiently may do just the opposite if the engine is marginal to start with.

This is solely based on what I have observed. Vic would have more to say about it than me about what he sees on the average coming into the shop.
Butch

 

[skeets]

Butch,, I use M1 15w50 in the Harley and I like it,, I am going to have to see if I can fine DELVAC up here in the coal country,,,Maybe it will quiet the rattles just like it did on Little Red,,lol,, Oh and one more thing/question is there a multi viscosity oil for use in a diesel motor,,, yeah I know it's and engine

 

[ptwyz]

Here's an API oil guide chart in PDF
http://www.burkeoil.com/pdf/oilguide.pdf
I like Scott's S = Spark Plug explanation and it holds true except in the case of some premium oils which have both classifications!

John

Well, I have to say, I just got an education in oil...

 

[tow2topgun]

*UPDATE*
Well, I let it drain overnight and finished cleaning the oil screen. Refilled it with 5 quarts of 30W and cranked her up. The new oil must have been foreign to her belly cause she got sick. Started puking everywhere. There is a hose connected to the right side of the block (overflow tube I suppose) and it started spewing old black tar. I probably lost 2 quarts of oil from that tube. What is the capacity of the tractor? I was basing the 5 qts on what I had drained since the specs on this site say it only takes 0.5 qts. I also pulled the dipstick while it was running and it was spewing oil. Oil light stayed the same as before. Did not come on at first but eventually did come on. What the heck?

 

[traildust]

*UPDATE*
Well, I let it drain overnight and finished cleaning the oil screen. Refilled it with 5 quarts of 30W and cranked her up. The new oil must have been foreign to her belly cause she got sick. Started puking everywhere. There is a hose connected to the right side of the block (overflow tube I suppose) and it started spewing old black tar. I probably lost 2 quarts of oil from that tube. What is the capacity of the tractor? I was basing the 5 qts on what I had drained since the specs on this site say it only takes 0.5 qts. I also pulled the dipstick while it was running and it was spewing oil. Oil light stayed the same as before. Did not come on at first but eventually did come on. What the heck?

To say the least, this is very very very strange. By chance was there anything else at all that you did besides just pull the plug and let it go?

Something is causing a blockage in there and you didn't use the detergent type so it has to be traced back to something you did by accident.

You mentioned something about the screen assembly and not being able to actually remove it. Did you get it out? Is there something that could have happened with it to cause this?

I think there is something plugged in there causing this back pressure. It could be a rag, tool or something to do with that screen but your gonna have to find it.

Keep us updated.


Scott

 

[tow2topgun]

scott, there were no rags or tools left behind. I removed the screen assembly and the drain plug that was just below the screen assembly. Just not certain of how much oil goes in.

 

[traildust]

scott, there were no rags or tools left behind. I removed the screen assembly and the drain plug that was just below the screen assembly. Just not certain of how much oil goes in.

Maybe it is overserviced. With the engine OFF what is indicated on the dipstick?

What ever the answer, drain the level town to NO HIGHER than the MID way on the stick. Run the engine and see what happens.

Keep in mind that the manual will say it needs 5 quarts. That however is the capacity before any fluid has been added As in a factory build up bone dry engine.

Depending on engine design and everything else you may not get the five quarts out. There maybe a quart spread thin through out the engine internals. You might only be able to get a hair over 4 quarts back in there.



Scott

 

[tow2topgun]

Once she got done throwing up, I checked the oil and it was at the full mark and quit spewing. Reckon it was just overfilled and purged itself. Plan on changing the oil again next weekend again and checking the compression. I ran it for about 2 hours today while removing stumps and grading a hill bank in my yard. Everything ran good. Broke 2 bolts that hold the rear wheel on the axle and called it a day.

 

[traildust]

Once she got done throwing up, I checked the oil and it was at the full mark and quit spewing. Reckon it was just overfilled and purged itself. Plan on changing the oil again next weekend again and checking the compression. I ran it for about 2 hours today while removing stumps and grading a hill bank in my yard. Everything ran good. Broke 2 bolts that hold the rear wheel on the axle and called it a day.

Oh man are you having a bad day
Was there a nasty dark cloud floating above you?

Back to business

Before you run the tractor again, get the oil to the half way between empty and full - no higher. Then run it.

Also, next week or when you get to it and change the oil, also only service it to the half way. Then run it.

If it doesn't spew it's guts again then let it run a moment and shut it down. Check the oil again. Add just enough to go right above 3/4.

By servicing an engine to full when it is still cold will not allow room for the expansion that will happen. The engine will be over serviced when it gets to temperature.

I hope your day gets better. The next beer you have, just pretend I bought it for you


Scott

 

[tow2topgun]

Bad day? Are you kidding? I live in Georgia and it isn't raining or snowing and it was 70+ degrees outside! Was a great day. Could have been worse. I could be tractor-less! Thanks for beer #4!
Thanks again for your advice!
Jason

 

[traildust]

Bad day? Are you kidding? I live in Georgia and it isn't raining or snowing and it was 70+ degrees outside! Was a great day. Could have been worse. I could be tractor-less! Thanks for beer #4!
Thanks again for your advice!
Jason

Jason,
I like your high spirits!

I wish I could share a Beer with you but instead I'm taking some cold meds

I haven't been sick with anything, not even hay fever for almost four years. But that streak had to come to an end


Take care,
Scott

 

[Rust Addict]

Your oil pressure light shouldn't be on still.
Have you tried pulling that out of the block and see if oil pisses out when you start it up? Could just be gunk in oil galley.
If it is wired correctly, oil pressure light is on when the engine is off, and key is on.
New pressure switch is a cheap part.

 

[tow2topgun]

Pull the oil pressure swith out and then crank it? Hadn't thought of it but will give it a try. Now to find that switch.... Sucks not knowing what I am working on. Reckon I can trace the wires.

 

[tow2topgun]

Well, I used the tractor for about 2 hours yesterday. I used the front blade to grade a 2 foot high dirt wall to a gradual slope. I checked the oil several times while using it since the oil light stays on. I'm thinking Scott is on to something with the "overservicing". The oil level never feel below the full mark during operation. Thinking that maybe I just overfilled it when I changed the oil. Plan to replace the oil pressure swith when I come back from vacation and see if that helps. I am thinking the problem is much deeper than the switch though. Just feel that the pump itself is wore out and not pumping adequate pressure. I have never opened up a diesel motor and wondering if I should even attempt a repair/replacement of the oil pump. If I get in the motor, would you simply change the rod bearings and call it a day or go further? The tractor was free and I don't have a ton of funds to drop into it. Hate to put a bandaid on a severe laceration but I am on a band aid budget.