upgrade Hyd pump

[Greg]

Yeah~ That makes sense~! Thank you for the information.
But what do you think about upgrading one size up of cylinder~?
Would it be worth it to improve the performance~?

Joe.

In my opinion, it is not worth the cost on many levels.

1. if there is a 25% increase in lifting power, you can bet your sweet arse that there will be a 25% decrease in speed. Maybe it's not exactly the ratio, but you can determine the volume of the 2 cylinders and subtract the volume of the 2 rods to determine how much more fluid needs to be pumped into the larger cylinder.

2. There needs to be a 'weak link' in the system. Any mechanical system needs a week link. The weak link is basically the end of the line safety of your tractor. I suspect increasing your cylinder strength by this much will do more harm than good to some of the more critical framing or sub framing.

3. If it's too slow, captjack said was his problem he doesn't need more lifting force, he simply needs more GPM.

4. I am new to tractors and I spent the day yesterday moving dirt for the very first time. The pile i was digging into was dumped about a year ago and was pretty well packed down. For the first hour or so I had lots of trouble and was upset with the strength and speed of my loader. But as the day went on i varied my technique. My tractor had plenty of power to push into the pile and fill the bucket but then was completely unable to lift it. I found that once full I would back up about 2" and that would break the bucket free. Then, tilt back on the bucket breaking it free from the pile yet further and then it would lift. The lift was a little slow. But hey, it's an 18 hp tractor. Once I had this technique down I had no more problems. Moved the remaining 4 yards in no time.

 

[Captjack]

What I have is a loader that gets weaker and weaker as I use the tractor. I am guessing it has something to do with the fluid temp but i'm not sure.

Like I said before the power steering leaks some but i'm not sure this could be the problem.

Where is the test port ? I am assuming I could just install a gauge in the port and test it..

Does anyone have the max psi an L235dt with PS should have ?

The loader is a 1200 series loader - I cant find any specs on it anywhere

 

[Joshua Zahn]

Capt. Jack,
If you go back a page you should find a thread 'Hydraulic Pressure'(I think) that I started. I'm having a really similar problem with my L275 (I think you're the one who noted that the 235 and 275 are brothers) and in that thread Vic posted a couple of attachments, one showing the location of the test port and another with some specs. My WSM covers both the 235 and 275 and gives a range of 1990 to 2060 psi.

Josh,
See how all your hydro troubleshooting is paying off?

I'm proud of you bro


Scott

I may not be a Kubota mechanic but I slept in a Holiday Inn Express last night. Nah, so far I only know the steps that DIDN'T work for me. Maybe Capt. Jack's answer is easier.

 

[Captjack]

So what does yours read ? Can you leave the gauge on the tractor ?

Im not far from you in Centreville Md - right down 301

 

[Joshua Zahn]

Mine reads 1000 psi when the hitch is activated and then drops to 500 psi. Should be 2000 psi before relief valve kicks in. I guess you could leave the gauge in the tractor but it's kind of a vulnerable spot.

 

[joekimtkd]

What I have is a loader that gets weaker and weaker as I use the tractor. I am guessing it has something to do with the fluid temp but i'm not sure.

Like I said before the power steering leaks some but i'm not sure this could be the problem.

Where is the test port ? I am assuming I could just install a gauge in the port and test it..

Does anyone have the max psi an L235dt with PS should have ?

The loader is a 1200 series loader - I cant find any specs on it anywhere

Princess Auto Hydraulic department guy was asking me if my loader was start getting weaker or if my tractor was old~
and reason he asking me was, old cylinder will loose the sealing pressure. so some old cylinder needs to replace piston ring or something inside. but my case wasn't that old and didn't loose power or anything so I didn't ask any further.

So, as you are saying start loosing power on the loader that way, you might check the cylinder piston ring or something...

good luck.

Joe.

 

[joekimtkd]

Well, here is what I think....

When she walks in the garage and see's Joe Speedy Mechanic swapping $$$$$ of cylinder and at the same time realizes there is a new Lincoln

You will be wishing you had some of that camouflage Kubota Orange Fancy Paint on you


Scott

Ha ha ha~ If my wife gives me hard time or something on that, all I have to do is let her sleep alone a few days or cut her allowance down~

Well~ she knows me more than anybody out there by now~
and she can't stop me to buying stuff. ha ha ha...
I never tell her but eventually she alway finds out but too late to argue with me anyway...

Even I started with 22 caliber small Ruger M10 rifle and now I have 10 rifles including Sniper's rifle along with 16x to 40x zoom scope.

She is giving up on me now... ha ha ha

Oh~ Congrats on your new welding helmet~
So do you need Orange paint too~??? If you do, I'll send some~

Joe.

 

[traildust]

Princess Auto Hydraulic department guy was asking me if my loader was start getting weaker or if my tractor was old~
and reason he asking me was, old cylinder will loose the sealing pressure. so some old cylinder needs to replace piston ring or something inside. but my case wasn't that old and didn't loose power or anything so I didn't ask any further.

So, as you are saying start loosing power on the loader that way, you might check the cylinder piston ring or something...

good luck.

Joe.

You are correct sir!
When cylinders (aka actuators) have bad internal seals the fluid will by pass and the actuator will be sub par.

In my industry when we suspect a bad hydraulic actuator we touch it with our hand. If it is hot then the hydrualic fluid is by passing internally and the seals are shot.

Maybe, and it's a big maybe this can be done on the Kubota by exersicing the controls until they start fading. At that point with the palm of your hand grasp the actuator bodies and compare to each other.

Does one feel hotter than the other?
Do they both feel hotter than should be deemed normal?


Scott

 

[traildust]

Ha ha ha~ If my wife gives me hard time or something on that, all I have to do is let her sleep alone a few days or cut her allowance down~

Well~ she knows me more than anybody out there by now~
and she can't stop me to buying stuff. ha ha ha...
I never tell her but eventually she alway finds out but too late to argue with me anyway...

Even I started with 22 caliber small Ruger M10 rifle and now I have 10 rifles including Sniper's rifle along with 16x to 40x zoom scope.

She is giving up on me now... ha ha ha

Oh~ Congrats on your new welding helmet~
So do you need Orange paint too~??? If you do, I'll send some~

Joe.

Joe,
who are you kidding I know why you talk big like that. Your wife wasn't home while you wrote that post

Thanks for the congrats - it's nice and cost $$$$....so yes I will be needing some of your Camouflage Kubota Orange Fancy Paint

Add that to the list of stuff to bring with you on the looooonnng drive

Scott

 

[traildust]

Thanks Vic for that great info...sorta the holy grail of hydro!

Scott

 

[Captjack]

Any specs or data on the 1200 series loader ?

 

[ct18fireman]

I am new so am adding to this thread rather than starting a new one. I am having a FEL problem on a L245DT. The problem I am having is that it is slow and has little breakout force or power. It used to lift the front of the tractor off the ground when using down pressure and now I just get a squeal at the loader valve the same as when the cylinders reach the end of their travel. The thing is that the three point works great. Today we lifted three large people on the york rake at idle. This makes me think I have a good pump and overall system. Maybe a relief valve problem. I am wondering if there are other issues with the valve as it doesn't have any float or detent. Maybe it never did. If the relief valve is near where the two spool ends are in the photo I can't figure out how to get it out. I have checked the screen in the transmission and fluid level is good. Going to get a pressur guage tomorrow. It is a two lever valve as shown in the photo. Thanks for any advice.

 

[Milo Holroyd]

In your picture, the relief valve is under the top cover. (the plain round cover).
But,,, I wouldn't be messing with that just yet.
Your symptoms indicate to me, that your loader cylinders are bypassing (worn out packing) internally. They are rebuild-able.

Welcome to the Orange side.
Milo

 

[traildust]

Fireman,
you came to the right place looking for help. As you can see by Milo jumping in already. There are others that have been through your same issues lately. They will be back on soon and they will be able to offer more great advice.

Make sure when you get a pressure gauge to get a "T" fitting if you are going off the lines at the valves. This way you will not run the chance of dead heading the pump. The line pressure will continue from the hose through the "T" and finally at the vavle.

Welcome to the OTT

 

[ct18fireman]

All 4 of the FEL cylinders at the same time? It was working fine. Tried to load topsoil from a pile and when I drove into it had no lift. Backed out of the pile with material still in bucket and it lifts. Thinking that maybe I did something to the releif valve when going into the pile.

How does that cap come off? I don't want to break it.

 

[traildust]

How does that cap come off? I don't want to break it.

Could be the releif vavle and I don't know the tools for your particulare set up. But I can gaurentee it's not the hammer sitting on the seat in your picture

Is there any way you can post a picture of the lower side of the valves?

 

[ct18fireman]

Aren't all problems solved with a hammer? Not sure what that was doing there.

The cap on what I and others I guess think is the relief valve has no screw in it or anything. Maybe it presses on maybe it threads on. I don't want to pull on something threaded or twist something that shoul pull off. There is about a 1/8" gap between the valve block and the cap.

I can unbolt the valve and take a picure tomorrow. It is at the shop and I am at home now.

Thanks for the quick responses.

 

[traildust]

Aren't all problems solved with a hammer?

Yes, that is correct

Not sure what that was doing there.

Glad to see you have the standard response that works for just about everything...I like it!


Hang in there, those in the know about the valves will be along soon.

 

[Milo Holroyd]

The relief cap is threaded on. A pair of soft jaw piers, or pliers / vise grips, with brass or aluminum under the jaws will work.

Milo

 

[ct18fireman]

Ok I got the cap off. The threaded part underneath was turned on about 1/4 of the way after I took the jam nut off (jam nut not in pic). Still could be turned down some to increase pressure but did not look like it had moved. Took it apart and the spring came out the the plunger and the ball. That's it. Don't see anything else in shaft.