Just to ask, what folks find works best loading a bx on a trailer, I picked up a 5x10 aluminum trailer. so would be loader and box blade hanging off it to save room. to give an idea of length
I always feel safer driving forwards off the trailer. (So back it on if possible). A lot depends on how confident you are about the ramps. Its pretty scary backing off a tailer with dodgy ramps.Just to ask, what folks find works best loading a bx on a trailer, I picked up a 5x10 aluminum trailer. so would be loader and box blade hanging off it to save room. to give an idea of length
I did address this in the very FIRST post in fact. I discussed proper axle loading and tongue weight. You will not have proper tongue weight if the load center is behind the rear axle.Wow, with all these comments no one mentioned the post important thing about this. You don't load so the center of gravity of the load is behind the axle(s). If you ever are stuck with such a load and didn't have an accident, you were just plain lucky. Regardless of stuff sticking forward or back, this requirement governs.
I've owned a Carry-on trailer since new in 1999 and in the last 15 years I haven't had one single problem with it. The only one minor set back was a design flaw on their end and Carry-on was new to trailer building at the time. When they ran the wiring for the trailer lights, it was placed between the frame rail and deck boards. Needless to day I had to rewire the trailer but not that big of a deal.While we are on the subject of trailers,,,,what brand do you have?? I've looked at Gatormade, beast of a trailer, look to be very well built, but to wide to try and get into my 9' garage door. Looked at BigTex also, not near as heavy built as the Gatormade, but a bit narrower to get inside garage door.
Both have brakes, tandem axles, drop gate, LED lights. I can get either in 14' or 16'.
I've got a single axle 5x10, that has no hope of getting my tractor on. No way to carry it with MMM on at all.
Thanks
Good points, I am making the assumption that a person has a basic understanding of vehicles, trailers and physics (as we all learn in Jr high, or least they try to teach us) or has read the owners manual or paid attention the multitude of stickers on the actual trailer itself, which means that I left some basic stuff out. Which is really on me I guess, but then it seems if I ramble on too long about all the minutia then some people loose interest in further reading. Hard to deal with this, really between a rock and a hard place as some on here want a one line answer to solve complex issues that might require many paragraphs.A quote from earlier post: However that said, properly loaded on the trailer may mean two much overhang either to the front or the back, that is one of the problems with a short trailer, and it is not acceptable to overload one axle or the tongue to "get the proper overhang", the only situation in that case is to get a longer / different trailer.
David: I'm sorry to differ, but the average guy (me included) would interpret "overhang" as the stuff that sticks out beyond the bed. That says nothing about where the center of gravity is or should be positioned. Maybe we should define what center of gravity is.. Center of gravity is the place on the tractor where one can assume all the weight is located. You can have a long piece of steel "overhanging" out in back, yet the center of gravity might be forward of the axle. Also "proper tongue weight" means little if you don't say 10%, 20% or what percent of total weight. The "Why' also should be spelled out. I have found that to avoid dangerous sympathetic bouncing of the trailer frame and load that, at times, very little tongue weight is required. Yet with this combination the load rode the best, not meeting any 10 or 20 percent rule for the hitch load.
The main requirement in regards to what hangs forward or rear, is that there should beno center of gravity positioned rear of axle(s) regardless of what sticks out front or back. I find that by driving back and forth on the trailer, while checking what the tongue does (tends to go down or up) tells me the center of gravity is on the axle(s) midway between the "up or down" hitch motion. Then, going slightly forward to the tie down spot works best. Note: this is regardless of what sticks out forward or rear. At times it is necessary to take the tractor off and reverse to properly meet this test. I wonder how the average guy can set his position to, say put 10% on the hitch. I like my method better.
Getting into the subject of what is "overhanging" confuses the meat of properly positioning the load itself. The two are not directly related. To properly position a load you maybe forced to have "overhang". A different trailer is hardly what the reader wants to be forced with. Maybe take off an attachment and place it in the truck bed.
The clearer we can be in our wording, the easier it is to explain things. Use of words that can not be confused is a challenge when not knowing all the readers. I certainly did not see the explanation in the first post as telling the weight position story as intended due to using "overhang" wording as the stuff of prime concern.. Locate the best position first and then worry about "overhang".