What is this ??

[1coolbanana]

Hi all
Ive been rummaging around under the tractor, L1-22 about 30 year old and came across a few wires hanging down so had a bit of a fiddle and found they are attached to this unit which is more or less under the seat, attached to the side of the 3 pt tower

What is this?
A pair of wires goes to each end to like a couple of big solenoids.
The two hydraulic hoses just do a loop so the top and bottom hose are one and the same.
This

Cant see it in this pic well but on the end of the shaft of the 3 pt lift arm, there is a little lever and a rod that goes forward to the transmission.
Can also see the solenoid at the other end of the unit in the first pic.

What are these, does anyone know?

Cheers
Marc

 

[kuboman]

It looks like the mate to those wires is hanging down there too. Follow those wires and see where they go.

 

[1coolbanana]

It looks like the mate to those wires is hanging down there too. Follow those wires and see where they go.

Unfortunately not
What you can see is a pair of wires from each end, the two pairs are just 6" long, one pair from each end solenoid valve and they are all male connectors.
There does not appear anywhere for them to to connect to.

Im very interested to know what its function might be, as well as the lever that runs from the lift arm to the transmission.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wild ass guess time again.
It looks like the solenoid is a valve actuator, Is there just one or 2 of them?

The rod an the arm should be for positional feed back. Do you have 2 levers for the three point, if you do then you have draft control, that actively adjusts the three point for depth control, it a nice feature!
more pics of the three point and I could tell you better.

 

[1coolbanana]

Theres two solenoids, one at each end of the block in the pic.

It looks like there may have been two levers but there isnt now.
I would be impressed if it had depth control and could figure out how to make it work again

 

[bandaidmd]

third function that was never completed?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There is an option on some of those models for extra lift cylinders, they would allow you to lift even more weight, Personally I would be afraid to lift any more weight, I can get the front end to float pretty easy right now. or they could be for top and tilt, is it just one hose looped or 2? If it's one I'm betting it's for an adjustable center link (top part of top and tilt), 2 would be both. The draft control is an option, I need to see a better pic of the center link on your tractor to know if it had it and was removed or if it's just a standard setup.

 

[1coolbanana]

Thanks mate, I will try and get some better pictures.
Should have done it when the wheels were off, would have been much easier but only discovered this stuff yesterday
Cheers
Marc

 

[1coolbanana]

Ok, heres some better pics...
This is the mystery valve body and solenoids and the single hydraulic line that just loops back to the other side of the valve body.

This is the lever and rod on the left lift arm

and goes through to....????

Whether or not there was ever and extra lever here, who knows after 30 odd years!

Hopefully these pics may help you guys identify some of this
Be awesome if I could get it working

Hopefully Ill be getting the fair dinkum parts manual in a couple weeks.
Even though in Japanese, it may help identify some of this
Cheers and thanks
Marc

 

[kuboman]

For giggles why not apply some power to the solenoid?? or what ever it is and see what happens.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Got it now.
Yes that's a Bi directional solenoid valve and it could can anything remotely.
You will need a dual pole dual throw (dpdt) switch to make it work.
I can give you a complete wiring schematic to make it work if you need it.
One use would be a hydraulically adjustable top link.

The lever and the rod are feed back position control. With your model the three point can be lowered and lifted to any point and stop, most smaller models have up or down and you have to force the stop in the middle.

The missing lever (slot behind three point control) would be for draft control, it's nice to have but not super important, works best for plowing dirt.

 

[kuboman]

Got it now.
Yes that's a Bi directional solenoid valve and it could can anything remotely.
You will need a dual pole dual throw (dpdt) switch to make it work.
I can give you a complete wiring schematic to make it work if you need it.
One use would be a hydraulically adjustable top link.

The lever and the rod are feed back position control. With your model the three point can be lowered and lifted to any point and stop, most smaller models have up or down and you have to force the stop in the middle.

The missing lever (slot behind three point control) would be for draft control, it's nice to have but not super important, works best for plowing dirt.

I am curious as to what a bi-directional solenoid does.?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am curious as to what a bi-directional solenoid does.?

It allows fluid to flow in both directions, Changes the input to output and back again.

 

[1coolbanana]

Maaaaate..........youre a legend
So does that mean I can use it as a rear remote?
Id really like to get a hydraulic top link and was wondering how to get sorted, maybe this is the answer and just needs to be fixed?
Schematic would be great.
Cheers
Marc

 

[1coolbanana]

For giggles why not apply some power to the solenoid?? or what ever it is and see what happens.

I thought of that but wasnt game
Suppose Ill have to try them before going any further anyway and make sure they work
Would they be polarity sensitive?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I thought of that but wasnt game
Suppose Ill have to try them before going any further anyway and make sure they work
Would they be polarity sensitive?

You going to need to get 2 lengths of Hose to properly test the system, get 2 to use for the top link.
Note: That they have one end Male and one end is Female on the existing fittings, you
The solenoids on your setup are not really polarity sensitive just need Pos. and Neg. applied to the wires.

Test 1: Tractor off, bypass loop hose on, put power to each solenoid should hear click, DO NOT touch the conductive part of the wire when you disconnect it, as you will get one heck of a jolt when the magnetic field collapses.
Test 2: Disconnect loop hose and replace with hoses long enough to go to a clean bucket, tie hoses so the can't come out of bucket, put block on top of bucket so it can't move, start tractor, should not have fluid coming out hoses, power one solenoid fluid should flow out one hose, nothing on other, power other solenoid and fluid should flow out the opposite hose and again nothing out the other hose.

If all that works your in Business, just get a top link and hook it up!

Switch wiring:

 

[1coolbanana]

Mate, that is awesome, thanks so much for that info.
Hopefully Ill give test 1 a go on the weekend, and if it works Ill look for another hose to test with.
Let you know how it goes
BTW, what are the caps for, what wattage?
Many thanks again.
Cheers
Marc

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The caps are to take in the collapse field voltage from the solenoid coil, it keeps it from arcing the contacts on the switch.
Caps are not rated in watts, just use a ceramic non-polarized capacitor.

 

[1coolbanana]

I tried connecting 12 volts and I get a click from each solenoid, althought they are quite mutted.
Not a sharp click and I was expecting to be able to feel it but no, just a mutted click and no feel at all through the valve body.

What happens if I leave the hose looped while running and actuate the solenoids?

I was looking at getting one of these, should do the trick if I can get it to work?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301085858982?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes a dull thud instead of a crisp click is probably right on the mark, you should be good to go.

Leaving the line connected, running it and operating the valves will tell you... well Nadda / ZIP / Zero, the line might flex a little but it's essentially just going to dump fluid back to the tank.

Yes that is exactly what you need!
Lines and all, well half the lines, your going to need the lines from the valve to couplers, the plus is they supply both sides of the couplers.

Note: You do know your not going to get a lot of use out of an adjustable top link with a box blade, as they tend to be a set an leave it kind of set up.