L245 throttle is sporadic

[chartersj]

I got the timing cover off. I ended up having to take the hydraulic pump off to get the gear off the end of the fuel cam to pull it out the other side. I noticed both the fuel cam AND cam shaft were not timed properly to the large idle gear in the center. Both are off a few teeth. Looks like it was apart to fix the plug that comes out of the center of the cam shaft and wasn't timed when re assembled. Not sure this would cause the main symptoms I was having with it reving out of control at lower rpms but it's been starting hard and didn't seem to rev out smoothly. So with the fuel cam off i removed the snap ring for the injection pump gear but I cannot get it off the shaft to remove the guts to the governor. Should I use a press get it off?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It most likely was not out of time, being that far off, if it was wouldn't have ever let it start or run.
Kubota timing marks only line up every 128 revolutions of the crank, so you are just in the middle of that cycle.
When you get done working in there, then you line up all three sets of marks and you're good to go.

You can use a press just be very careful with it, or you can use a gear puller remove the gear.
I would first just look it over as it's a pretty simple setup, if anything is wrong you should be able to just see it.

You want to concentrate on the governor part which is the lever section of it.
Look for worn, bent, or broken pieces on it.

 

[chartersj]

It most likely was not out of time, being that far off, if it was wouldn't have ever let it start or run.
Kubota timing marks only line up every 128 revolutions of the crank, so you are just in the middle of that cycle.
When you get done working in there, then you line up all three sets of marks and you're good to go.

You can use a press just be very careful with it, or you can use a gear puller remove the gear.
I would first just look it over as it's a pretty simple setup, if anything is wrong you should be able to just see it.

You want to concentrate on the governor part which is the lever section of it.
Look for worn, bent, or broken pieces on it.

Ok good to know about the timing marks and revolutions. The arms for the governor look fine and move freely. It seems the problem is in the cup part that holds the bearings just behind the cam gear that controls the arms. That's what was floating around when the tractor was idling or at low rpms.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Like I stated previously, I haven't been in the gov portion on a Kubota.. BUT on a Deutz theres an idle pre-load adjustment.. that keeps the engine from shutting down when u go from full load to idle in 1 quick motion..
Do u see any screw adjustment inside the cover.??
OR it might be the bell crank is grooved on the back side, where it touches the flyweights? or the FWeight "legs" could be worn..??
I'm just thinkin outloud.. A few pics would be nice.. Thanks & I hope u find something obvious.

 

[chartersj]

I still have not got the cam shaft pressed apart to have a look but here is a little video of the motion of it.
https://youtu.be/14vzvflo77w

 

[chartersj]

I am fairly confident I found the problem. Everything moved freely untill I put the IP back in. The arm that controls the fuel rack would then rub against the side of the pump. So I carefully bent it away from it a bit and it now works smoothly and the cup with the ball bearings on the fuel cam is not able to float around with the small spring fitted onto the timing cover. So I probably didn't have to tear into it this far but it was hard to see that's what was going on untill I was looking down the side of the pump from the front with the fuel cam out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I am fairly confident I found the problem. Everything moved freely untill I put the IP back in. The arm that controls the fuel rack would then rub against the side of the pump. So I carefully bent it away from it a bit and it now works smoothly and the cup with the ball bearings on the fuel cam is not able to float around with the small spring fitted onto the timing cover. So I probably didn't have to tear into it this far but it was hard to see that's what was going on untill I was looking down the side of the pump from the front with the fuel cam out.

Excellent glad you found something that could cause it!

 

[chartersj]

Excellent glad you found something that could cause it!

Your help is very much appreciated! Hope to order a new timing cover gasket today, and a new crank seal is probably a good idea as well.

 

[thepumpguysc]

So w/ the sticking/stuck rack it was holding it "just off" idle & allowing the flyweights & spring to surge..
GOOD FIND.. sorry u had to dive into the front cover to find it tho..

 

[chartersj]

So w/ the sticking/stuck rack it was holding it "just off" idle & allowing the flyweights & spring to surge..
GOOD FIND.. sorry u had to dive into the front cover to find it tho..

Yeah exactly. when I stuck my finger in the access hole I could move the governor arm back and fourth no problem and didn't see any marks on the side of the pump where it was dragging but it was just barely on it enough that the small spring wouldn't bring it all the way back to the stop on the timing cover. I would say whoever had the pump out before I got it didn't line the IP rack pin up with the slot in the governor arm and force it down bending the arm. So I am sure that someone that was more familiar with this set up would of caught it before I tore it down but I wanted to see what kind of shape the plug in the end of the cam shaft was like as well and I would say that has been changed. You have been a lot of help as well thanks!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Was the cam plug welded in?
If not a tack weld would do it good!

Remember line all three places up on the cams before you close it up.

 

[chartersj]

So I got the front end all back together and was doing the same thing untill I backed out the max fuel adjustment spring just above the hydraulic pump and that would let it stay idling. I would say someone was messing with that to compensate for the weak governor springs that was the first thing I changed. I also had to adjust the one on the timing cover as well that's just above the plate for the rpm cable. But now it starts and runs much better.

So I have it mostly together now except for the cab and today was the first chance I had to do a test run around the yard. The front wheels are not getting power to them. I'm wondering if I didn't get the splines lined up when I put the front axle back on but it slid on very easily so I figured it lined up.
Is it normal for the tractor to slow down very fast when you put the clutch in? Almost like the brakes are stuck on a little bit?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Post # 53.. I win..Yeah...
Man Oh Man.. u should be an expert on these things by now..??
I sure hope to see u contributing more on the "problems" on this forum.. hahaha..
Real glad ur up & runnin.. just in time for snow removal.. Happy Tractoring..

 

[chartersj]

Post # 53.. I win..Yeah...
Man Oh Man.. u should be an expert on these things by now..??
I sure hope to see u contributing more on the "problems" on this forum.. hahaha..
Real glad ur up & runnin.. just in time for snow removal.. Happy Tractoring..

haha Yep should of looked into that further. At the time I didn't realize how precise all the adjustments have to be and that all the springs work together. I definitely have a good understanding how the fuel delivery systems works on this tractor lol.

Now to figure out why the 4wd is not engaging. I will block the tractor off the ground next chance I get to diagnose.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I know this is "alittle" late but HF had a big parking lot sale last weekend..
I picked up a 3 ton floor jack for 50. or 60.00 & a set of 3 ton jack stands to 20.00..
Woulda came in REAL HANDY for your next project..{getting tractor off the ground}
Good luck..

 

[BrianNH]

No, u don't have to remove the v. cover..
U DO have to remove the return line that's connecting each of them together,
Unscrew the nuts holding the return line on & carefully lift it off..
THEN unscrew the injector from the engine..

U REALLY should get a book.. Not that we don't like helping.. its just these simple things that are kickin your butt..

I have a L2600DT with the Illustrated Parts Manual, Assembly Manual and Owners Manual (tractor and FEL). Is there another "book" I should purchase for when I need to service my tractor beyond the regular maintenance intervals?

Thanks!
Brian

 

[thepumpguysc]

I think Kubota calls them "WSM".. Work Shop Manuals..