Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
Stuck hinge now fully stuck, hammer caused it to expand
Raised auger with bx1500
Found another grease pin, took tons of grease easily
Torch on hinge, striking with sledgehammer, now hinge is widened, not budging
Another task I am working on to get this going:
Messick does have those gaskets to make progress on engine
Plan: get the parts from messick and just use the parts that are taking long to ship on the engine getting the milling work
About to order from messick, I look at these diagrams, trying to get all the seals figured out
Exact order I fix to get from messick: 3 seals to put the crankshaft onto block, one pilot bearing, oil pan gasket, head gasket, gear case gasket
Then, like yall said, get the rest of the gaskets from cheap chinese supplier, I go find a whole kit now
This is the kit I plan to get to fill in the gaps of gaskets needed
Problem: messick took my bank account too low, cant afford it yet
Plan: get more money and get that Chinese gasket kit
Messick ship parts quickly, we should have everything we need to put block onto tractor early next week
I already installed main bearings in other crankshaft, since we already ordered more but not yet here, I need to take out all main bearings from other crankshaft and put on the one we are working on, no big deal
Fundamental mistake: I ordered and have parts that are steps ahead and am missing parts for the step I am on (pistons, rings, piston hardware)
No, I should have ordered the gaskets to install the crankshaft into block BEFORE anything to do with the top end
Do you see? because I have no experience, I made the mistake of:
Not staying on the step you are on, and getting caught up in the infinite details of the project
One who knows what they are doing: Order the gaskets right when you start taking it apart, so that you do not have hold ups, and save the piston/head purchases until later on
Lesson: keep your eye on the step you are on only
While thinking about the parts that are needed to get the show going and reflecting making sure you did not forget anything, plan for today:
escalate the effort to unseize the shaft that spin the auger, decide which plan to go with the main hinge that is now sandwiched into its position, raise up the auger off the ground, setup some kind of stand for it, spin the auger and see if the grease went into the main areas (I was able to spin it before), Possibly: slice off the huge welds holding that hinge to auger, grind everything down, get new massive hinge and weld that to the auger...
Plan for seized shaft: sand down the areas where you want the shaft to loosen, diesel, torch, sanding/grinding
My imagination of what would work: something holding tight to each side, then I turn a bolt and it widens and closes its 2 holding points. I am sure if I had a press, I can take off the shaft, and rig something up where I pull and push them together with great force.
I will give that hinge one more shot: cut up the ends of the hinge, hit it extra long with torch for many more minutes, hammer on it trying to unseize the hinge, hitting one side and then the other, with grease and diesel COOKED into everything
Another idea: slice off the hinge, weld on U shaped hook onto auger, then when I want to use the auger, come in with the 3 point hitch, and just lift auger using welded on hook (I show you picture soon and you understand)
youtube.com
Bx1500 raising mechanism
This is the end of 3 point lift: weld chain to the auger, then I hook chain to this hook, lift the auger,
and if the shaft is not seized, then the auger should work without the hinge, or
The auger need to be on hinge for stability reasons?
The shaft problem: take that shaft off and go get one that slides (if I cannot get it unseized). That shaft is in there with those common joints (U joint ?) and can be removed and replaced
a chain lifting the auger, unseize the sliding shaft that drive the auger, and we see if it works
First plan: no welding, unseize the shaft driving the power, and see if you can get it to spin auger
Later, figure out the other task
youtube.com
Got diesel in between shaft, exactly what I did: hit shaft with sanding disc, use grinding wheel to cut into the connection area, hit bottom end of shaft with torch, spray tons of diesel
Video: diesel boiling out of crevices
Connection area: spray diesel, put grease, hit with torch, hit shaft end with sledgehammer attempting to collapse it
Hit bottom shaft with torch, keep spraying diesel into crevice, picture shows they are separating
Raised auger with bx1500
Found another grease pin, took tons of grease easily
Torch on hinge, striking with sledgehammer, now hinge is widened, not budging
Another task I am working on to get this going:
Messick does have those gaskets to make progress on engine
Plan: get the parts from messick and just use the parts that are taking long to ship on the engine getting the milling work
About to order from messick, I look at these diagrams, trying to get all the seals figured out
Exact order I fix to get from messick: 3 seals to put the crankshaft onto block, one pilot bearing, oil pan gasket, head gasket, gear case gasket
Then, like yall said, get the rest of the gaskets from cheap chinese supplier, I go find a whole kit now
This is the kit I plan to get to fill in the gaps of gaskets needed
Problem: messick took my bank account too low, cant afford it yet
Plan: get more money and get that Chinese gasket kit
Messick ship parts quickly, we should have everything we need to put block onto tractor early next week
I already installed main bearings in other crankshaft, since we already ordered more but not yet here, I need to take out all main bearings from other crankshaft and put on the one we are working on, no big deal
Fundamental mistake: I ordered and have parts that are steps ahead and am missing parts for the step I am on (pistons, rings, piston hardware)
No, I should have ordered the gaskets to install the crankshaft into block BEFORE anything to do with the top end
Do you see? because I have no experience, I made the mistake of:
Not staying on the step you are on, and getting caught up in the infinite details of the project
One who knows what they are doing: Order the gaskets right when you start taking it apart, so that you do not have hold ups, and save the piston/head purchases until later on
Lesson: keep your eye on the step you are on only
While thinking about the parts that are needed to get the show going and reflecting making sure you did not forget anything, plan for today:
escalate the effort to unseize the shaft that spin the auger, decide which plan to go with the main hinge that is now sandwiched into its position, raise up the auger off the ground, setup some kind of stand for it, spin the auger and see if the grease went into the main areas (I was able to spin it before), Possibly: slice off the huge welds holding that hinge to auger, grind everything down, get new massive hinge and weld that to the auger...
Plan for seized shaft: sand down the areas where you want the shaft to loosen, diesel, torch, sanding/grinding
My imagination of what would work: something holding tight to each side, then I turn a bolt and it widens and closes its 2 holding points. I am sure if I had a press, I can take off the shaft, and rig something up where I pull and push them together with great force.
I will give that hinge one more shot: cut up the ends of the hinge, hit it extra long with torch for many more minutes, hammer on it trying to unseize the hinge, hitting one side and then the other, with grease and diesel COOKED into everything
Another idea: slice off the hinge, weld on U shaped hook onto auger, then when I want to use the auger, come in with the 3 point hitch, and just lift auger using welded on hook (I show you picture soon and you understand)
September 6, 2024
youtube.com
Bx1500 raising mechanism
This is the end of 3 point lift: weld chain to the auger, then I hook chain to this hook, lift the auger,
and if the shaft is not seized, then the auger should work without the hinge, or
The auger need to be on hinge for stability reasons?
The shaft problem: take that shaft off and go get one that slides (if I cannot get it unseized). That shaft is in there with those common joints (U joint ?) and can be removed and replaced
a chain lifting the auger, unseize the sliding shaft that drive the auger, and we see if it works
First plan: no welding, unseize the shaft driving the power, and see if you can get it to spin auger
Later, figure out the other task
September 6, 2024
youtube.com
Got diesel in between shaft, exactly what I did: hit shaft with sanding disc, use grinding wheel to cut into the connection area, hit bottom end of shaft with torch, spray tons of diesel
Video: diesel boiling out of crevices
Connection area: spray diesel, put grease, hit with torch, hit shaft end with sledgehammer attempting to collapse it
Hit bottom shaft with torch, keep spraying diesel into crevice, picture shows they are separating
Last edited:
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Hit it with some of both then hit it with torch, wire wheel and sledge hammer.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Joe's thread now has 445 posts:
I'm only guessing:
I'm only guessing:
- 200 are Joe's
- 100 are folks offering encouragement or constructive advice or criticism
- 145 are folks solely offering ridicule
Hello Joe,
sometimes hard hits with a hammer are better than 30 tons force from a press. But you need a round mandril that makes contact all around the bushing. Same applies to the rod, otherwise you damage them.
I got ball joints out of wishbones on a van this way that would not budge in the press.
I do not think though that the force required is that high. Another way may be using a vice to press it out, a nut from a socket set for the bushing and a suitable piece of pipe for the rod as mandrils.
Good luck !
Kind regards,
Hugo
sometimes hard hits with a hammer are better than 30 tons force from a press. But you need a round mandril that makes contact all around the bushing. Same applies to the rod, otherwise you damage them.
I got ball joints out of wishbones on a van this way that would not budge in the press.
I do not think though that the force required is that high. Another way may be using a vice to press it out, a nut from a socket set for the bushing and a suitable piece of pipe for the rod as mandrils.
Good luck !
Kind regards,
Hugo
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One of the members complaining about pictures taking too much space appears frequently on this thread and seldom supportive at all. Seems he enjoys the pictures!!Joe's thread now has 445 posts:
I'm only guessing:
Where I come from, if you don't have anything nice to say.......
- 200 are Joe's
- 100 are folks offering encouragement or constructive advice or criticism
- 145 are folks solely offering ridicule
Hello Joe,
another thing I would like to say about the heads. Although you got them nicely cleaned up with a grinding wheel and wire brush you have to make sure that it is perfectly level and straight. I do not know the tolerances on this Kubota head but typically we are talking 1/10mm over the whole length (same applies for top of block). Otherwise the head gasket will not seal. You need an engineering straight edge with suitable accuracy to check that. A machine shop doing engines would have one and they may help you.
So machining a tiny bit down carefully until the milling cutter has touched every part of the surface is the way it is normally done.
A low budget way is planing it with sandpaper glued onto a thick float glass plate. I have only ever seen this done with aluminium heads. Search for videos on the internet to see what this is about.
I do not want to discourage you and it most likely has been said by others already (did not read the whole thread) but similar or lower tolerances apply to the camshaft and conrod bearings and pistons. You want to make sure that you meet those, otherwise it may end up in disappointment after all the hard work you put into this.
Kind regards,
Hugo
another thing I would like to say about the heads. Although you got them nicely cleaned up with a grinding wheel and wire brush you have to make sure that it is perfectly level and straight. I do not know the tolerances on this Kubota head but typically we are talking 1/10mm over the whole length (same applies for top of block). Otherwise the head gasket will not seal. You need an engineering straight edge with suitable accuracy to check that. A machine shop doing engines would have one and they may help you.
So machining a tiny bit down carefully until the milling cutter has touched every part of the surface is the way it is normally done.
A low budget way is planing it with sandpaper glued onto a thick float glass plate. I have only ever seen this done with aluminium heads. Search for videos on the internet to see what this is about.
I do not want to discourage you and it most likely has been said by others already (did not read the whole thread) but similar or lower tolerances apply to the camshaft and conrod bearings and pistons. You want to make sure that you meet those, otherwise it may end up in disappointment after all the hard work you put into this.
Kind regards,
Hugo
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Separating them using chisel, someone help rig a way to mechanically separate them with the junk I have laying around
Chisel and sledgehammer hammer to open up the area get diesel in there
Here is what I have laying around: someone rig something up that would mechanically separate the shaft from rod
How about tie the entire auger to a tree, then attach chain on bx1500 and pull the shaft with the force of small tractor?
I keep spraying diesel and hit with torch while it gets figured out
Comprehend: if I get the shaft unseized and connect to the small tractor, and it doesn't need a hinge,
I just scored a $1000 industrial auger for $200
That is the math as to why it is worth the effort
Chisel and sledgehammer hammer to open up the area get diesel in there
Here is what I have laying around: someone rig something up that would mechanically separate the shaft from rod
How about tie the entire auger to a tree, then attach chain on bx1500 and pull the shaft with the force of small tractor?
I keep spraying diesel and hit with torch while it gets figured out
Comprehend: if I get the shaft unseized and connect to the small tractor, and it doesn't need a hinge,
I just scored a $1000 industrial auger for $200
That is the math as to why it is worth the effort
Last edited:
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Several members complain about Joe’s project yet continue to make disparaging remarks about it.
To my knowledge Joe has never been reactive in a bad manner. I know I have misbehaved in similar circumstances. Gotta give him respect in that regard.
He deserves better.
Just my humble opinion.
I just suggest we help Joe, not poke fun at him.
I’m done.
Joe - wish you the best!
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Don't do this otherwise the shaft might come free and you'll end up with the half not tied to the tree in the back of your head and then they'll be no more figuring it out.
What about trying to hammer the free end down into the outer shaft?
Once it starts moving a little bit either direction it should break free.
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They are truly helping me when they complain, they raise my issues to the top of the page
Arguably, they have solved all of the problems up to this point
No i dont.
This thread alone has been more valuable than ALL schooling, hundreds of thousands of dollars in education, all things my family/friends did and said to me
Auger attached to tree idea: I would slowly move tractor forward so rod does not fling at me
Hammer free end down idea: I hammered so much on it, the U joint is bending...
Soon I try the tree idea, I can put chain and pull the smaller rod from the bigger rod
I point: damage to u joint from sledgehammer, no more hammering
Got a one ton lift
Hit the edge again with Sharpened chisel, to open the area to take more diesel, hitting bottom shaft hard with torch
Got acetone and trans fluid, put in jar, put into crevice with brush
September 6, 2024
youtube.com
Watch the acetone boil out after hitting bottom rod with torch
September 6, 2024
youtube.com
September 7, 2024
youtube.com
Put shackle on end, hammered on it, video is you witnessing it unseize, hammered it out slowly, spray diesel, hit with torch, hammer on the shackle until shaft was free, hit shaft with sanding disc 80 grit, then hit shaft with fast wire wheel, spray with diesel, hit the area where it was seized hard with sanding disc, shaft smooth now
Next step: lift auger, setup upright, get small chain connect top of auger to hook on the tractor, connect unseized shaft to rear spindle on tractor
Top of auger, goal: rig up the auger to do test run if the auger will spin
Making hook for top of auger using chain, cut chain with cutting wheel, put those hooks on ends
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I have done this by putting the shaft and a come-along between a tractor and truck.
Yours may take the tractor pull. In any case, do not use rope, but use chain. Rope stretches and will recoil, along with anything tied to it, both ends.
I believe that I would check the cost for a new shaft, they are easily available, and in this case you may be trading dollars for time.
Yours may take the tractor pull. In any case, do not use rope, but use chain. Rope stretches and will recoil, along with anything tied to it, both ends.
I believe that I would check the cost for a new shaft, they are easily available, and in this case you may be trading dollars for time.
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Mix acetone with trany fluid 50/50 let shaft soak in it for a few days. The acetone will evaporate so you have to replenish often
If you're set on pulling against a tree I'd rig a pulley or something so you're pulling at a 90* angle away from the shaft. I've seen things like this go very badly even with a chain.
A few thousand pounds of pull letting go very quickly with a heavy piece of metal at the end is a lot of force.
But I'm guessing you're tractor will lose traction before anything happens anyways.
I've seen tight fitting slip fits like that rust solid where a 20t press won't budge them.
A few thousand pounds of pull letting go very quickly with a heavy piece of metal at the end is a lot of force.
But I'm guessing you're tractor will lose traction before anything happens anyways.
I've seen tight fitting slip fits like that rust solid where a 20t press won't budge them.
I'm responding to this post mostly to bring attention to it. I've also been concerned that you might not be giving the mating surfaces on the block and head enough care. Shiny is nice but shiny is not necessarily flat. This is even more important on a diesel because it's a high compression engine. I encourage you to take Hugo's advice seriously.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I would be worried hanging that auger from a chain. Hit a burried rock and could be trouble. But then again I have never seen anyone try it before so not totally sure of the outcome. You may surprise us again.
Ktrim
Well-known member
Equipment
B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a