Need a bigger alternator on your B series?

[TJP440]

The alternator went out on our old b2410: after a bunch of research found an alternator from a Daihatsu car, 75 amps, it was almost a perfect fit, just had to cut of 5mm from the bottom holder. it has been working like a charm for 2 years now.

The alternator went out on our old b2410: after a bunch of research found an alternator from a Daihatsu car, 75 amps, it was almost a perfect fit, just had to cut of 5mm from the bottom holder. it has been working like a charm for 2 years now.

But mine's better nah nah nah nah nah nah cause it's rated for 120 amps LOL
But I'll bet yours was A LOT cheaper . Mine was 130.00 at the time now 165.00 (Ouch!!!).
Yours was ?
And the part number would be very helpful for others as well
TWO questions, and these are serious ones believe it or not:
1.Did you upgrade your Alternator battery post to battery cable size? if not you likely need to.
2. Any other wiring mod's needed for the charging indicator ? Mine just had a lamp which is why I used the digital voltmeter.

 

[tunin]

Ha ha, this one was 20 euro, all cables are original, the plug was identical. I literaly just shaved 5mm from the bottom hinge to fit between the two two holders that the screw goes through.

Battery led is originaal, 16mm2, that is plenty for the lenght.

I will try to read the part number.

I live in a country where everything is difficult to fix, parts are hard to get so people are forced to find alternative solutions.

But mine's better nah nah nah nah nah nah cause it's rated for 120 amps LOL
But I'll bet yours was A LOT cheaper . Mine was 130.00 at the time now 165.00 (Ouch!!!).
Yours was ?
And the part number would be very helpful for others as well
TWO questions, and these are serious ones believe it or not:
1.Did you upgrade your Alternator battery post to battery cable size? if not you likely need to.
2. Any other wiring mod's needed for the charging indicator ? Mine just had a lamp which is why I used the digital voltmeter.

 

[tunin]

well, ”right to fix” they are already moding parts so it is impossible to replace them yourself, security screws, rfid chips installed, for some machines, it is already necessary to have the genuine diag. tool to ”activate” certain parts… the Gov. is aiding this.

I will try to read the part number.

Why would it be illegal?

Got a part number for the alternator or the model and year of the Daihatsu?

Dan

 

[tunin]

I just looked, the sticker for the part number is against the block, I can not reach it unless I dismantle everything… I will try to dig it up in my messages archive if I can.

i forgot to mention earlier, I swapped the pulleys.

 

[tunin]

I took it apart, here it is:

 

[TJP440]

I took it apart, here it is:

thank you for taking the time to do so. According to my research (limited) it fits a Daihatsu Cuore IV (1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, ) Not sure that model was available here but I'm pretty sure there are other applications or similar units.
I applaud you ingenuity and compliment you on sharing the information. We have to a degree become a throw away society but I come from a different generation.

i do want to warn others that the cheap Denso alternators on Amazon etc. are junk. I went through a few different ones before spending the $$ I am talking failing within 15-30 minutes
Thank you again

 

[tunin]

Thank you for your kind words. I said it before, I live in a country where stuff is hard to order, difficult to trac, customs, taxes, shipping cost is over the top, bureaucracy once the package arrives….

we try to reuse, recycle pretty much everything… I built my apartment from scratch up from used or leftover parts… from canon shells from the past war here to a second hand kitchen that I restored… if anyone interested, some items: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155454763275466&type=3

I just bought a taken apart Kubota stw40 “unfixable” I fixed and restored it to almost new… lots of parts that are not Kubota.

 

[TJP440]

Thank you for your kind words. I said it before, I live in a country where stuff is hard to order, difficult to trac, customs, taxes, shipping cost is over the top, bureaucracy once the package arrives….

we try to reuse, recycle pretty much everything… I built my apartment from scratch up from used or leftover parts… from canon shells from the past war here to a second hand kitchen that I restored… if anyone interested, some items: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155454763275466&type=3

I just bought a taken apart Kubota stw40 “unfixable” I fixed and restored it to almost new… lots of parts that are not Kubota.

Quite impressive as is your photography and collection of quotes

 

[tunin]

Quite impressive as is your photography and collection of quotes

Thanks mate, thx for looking.

 

[StarsAndBars]

I just looked, the sticker for the part number is against the block, I can not reach it unless I dismantle everything… I will try to dig it up in my messages archive if I can.

i forgot to mention earlier, I swapped the pulleys.

Do I understand this to mean you just put the pulley from the original Kubota alternator onto the denso alternator, or did you have to get an entirely different pulley elsewhere?

 

[TJP440]

Do I understand this to mean you just put the pulley from the original Kubota alternator onto the denso alternator, or did you have to get an entirely different pulley elsewhere?

Maybe he put the Daihatsu pulleys on the Kubota ? sorry, couldn't resist

 

[tunin]

Do I understand this to mean you just put the pulley from the original Kubota alternator onto the denso alternator, or did you have to get an entirely different pulley elsewhere?

I just took it of off the old alternator and moved it to this Denso alternator, no mods, nothing else. sorry if my English is not good enough, it is not my second nor third language.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I just took it of off the old alternator and moved it to this Denso alternator, no mods, nothing else. sorry if my English is not good enough, it is not my second nor third language.

No apology necessary, your English is better than most people I deal with.

 

[tunin]

No apology necessary, your English is better than most people I deal with.

Thank you, I struggle sometimes.

 

[Little General]

The alternator I am currently using is a Tuff Stuff performance CS121 GM style Part # 7937.
Alternator Link
Current pricing is about 130.00, do you shopping though
Mod's required:
1. Remove existing dynamo and dipstick
2. I slotted the lower mounting hole on the alternator about .200" to lower the alternator and accommodate the previously modified adjustment bracket. This may or may not be required on your unit.
3. The alternator was then mounted with a 5/16 x 18 x 3" ? long bolt. A spacer approximately 1" long was needed to move the alternator and align the pulleys.
4.The adjustment bracket previously modified consisted of cutting off the existing mounting holes. I then cut a piece of 1/8 inch ¾ or 1 " angle about 2 " long and added the holes for mounting it using the two bolts directly below the thermostat (10mm heads) . I did have to notch one side of the angle to clear the T/stat.
5. I removed the LF engine lifting plate and bolt for added clearance.
6. The Alternator was then rotated against the block and the previously cut slotted adjustment matched up to the angle iron piece fabbed in step 3.
I angled the end of the adjusting arm to follow the correct arc/travel for adjustment of the belt. A short 6/16's ? spacer (LOL 3/8) was used between the adj. bracket and alternator with the bolt entering from the back.
7. The two pieces were then welded together.
8. The shortest belt possible was used which required slipping the alternator in at an angle from the rear and then installing the lower mounting bolt and spacer. Don't have the belt number handy but I can provide it if needed. It may be different than your unit though.
9. I ran a 6 ga wire from the alternator to the starter stud.
10. The dipstick was slowly tweaked to clear the alternator etc. and reinstalled with a small amount of sealer and the mounting tab to the same location.
11. Remove the instrument cluster.
12. Disconnect the existing voltage regulator. Remove the charge lamp indicator bulb.
13. I then installed a small digital meter and tied into the main battery feed at the ignition switch Digital meter

A pretty simple deal if one has basic mechanical skills and fabrictaion abillities. I can provide more pic's but my time is extremely limited so patience will be required. Hiddsight being 20/20 I should have taken measurements and pic's as I did it

Can you provide any more pictures that may help me? Im trying to put a Curtis Air conditioner on a B2601 with a cab but I need 60 amps for the ac unit. Im hoping the gm alternator you listed can be made to fit.
(Mod Edit NO emails on open forum)

 

[TJP440]

Unfortunately I don't or if I do I can't find them if i had more time I'd pull the grille and side panel and take some pic's for you .
Might see if the 2601 uses the same dynamo as a B3200, if so it will likely fit. It's a bit of a squeeze, but really not that bad. Almost a drop in. Do stay away from the ching chong Amazon units as I went through 4 of them in short order. The tuff stuff unit has been doing fine (knock on wood).

 

[Little General]

Unfortunately I don't or if I do I can't find them if i had more time I'd pull the grille and side panel and take some pic's for you .
Might see if the 2601 uses the same dynamo as a B3200, if so it will likely fit. It's a bit of a squeeze, but really not that bad. Almost a drop in. Do stay away from the ching chong Amazon units as I went through 4 of them in short order. The tuff stuff unit has been doing fine (knock on wood).

Unfortunately I don't or if I do I can't find them if i had more time I'd pull the grille and side panel and take some pic's for you .
Might see if the 2601 uses the same dynamo as a B3200, if so it will likely fit. It's a bit of a squeeze, but really not that bad. Almost a drop in. Do stay away from the ching chong Amazon units as I went through 4 of them in short order. The tuff stuff unit has been doing fine (knock on wood).

I think I found an alternator from a speed shop that will work from speedway motors.com . It’s 90 amps and very compact. If it will fit , I will buy the ac roof unit that goes on campers and hook it up. If it will run for 30 minutes or so with no problems, then I will buy the Curtis cab to fit my tractor.

 

[TJP440]

I think I found an alternator from a speed shop that will work from speedway motors.com . It’s 90 amps and very compact. If it will fit , I will buy the ac roof unit that goes on campers and hook it up. If it will run for 30 minutes or so with no problems, then I will buy the Curtis cab to fit my tractor.

Do be careful with the cheaper no name units. Speedway has a good reputation BUT??? might ask who the source is. As mentioned I blew through 3 or 4 Amz units before going wit the stuff unit.
Might have been the heat killing them as it's pretty tight in there and the exhaust runs right over it with the muffler right behind. Final test in a semiconductor company I worked at had bin 1, 2,3,4 and 5's
5's were rejects, 4's passed but ? bin1's were top notch and sold for substantially more.
IBM, Apple, HP etc Bin 1, dell other upcomers bin 2, bin 3's hoping to become bigger, bin 4's sold to radio shack LOL

 

[GreensvilleJay]

most semi makers have those bins... military, automotive, industrial, commercial, 'home use'.
If you want super reliable parts you buy the mil spec versions. BIG $$$ but 100% worth it. Cheap 'commercial' is a 'good enough' version...... Ran 3 Shacks, never had a bad chip come back,still have 2 working TRS80 model IIIs and 4 MODEL 102 laptops. Gotta be 4 decades old now.....

 

[TJP440]

I'll agree.
The point was trying to make with the comment was the cheaper alternators are likely using bin 4 regulators which is why they all failed due to the heat. Where as a premium company like tuff stuff likely uses a bin 1 or 2. Speedway's supplier maybe a bin 3 or 4. It's a roll of the dice
This logic likely applies to many other products as well.
The high power C02 lasers I was later involved with developing were similar in that some made 115W output while the highest i ever saw was 145. the minimum requirement for a 100W system was 115W due to the losses encountered while transmitting the power through the various optics. lower power lasers became 75 or 55W systems. All of them like semiconductors were made using the most exacting processes as possible.
I'll close with another example. When I later owned a classic car restoration / repair shop between the techs there were 3 rethreading kits. A snap on at 225.00, A mac tools at 150.00 and a Craftsman at 55.00.
it was noticed one day that they all were identical down to the label in the case, the grain texture on the molded case itself etc. All were made in the USA. The only difference was the label in the depressed area molded into the outside of the case. Were they tested to different standards or tested at all ??
Were they bin 1, 2, or 3's? I went so far as to call a Snap-on purchasing agent. their response was they source tools from many places but he was not aware of any specific qualifications? So, only the manufacturer or someone else inside snap on knows