I second this. Doing this sure helped this guy move from zero a bit in a positive direction…highly recommended.
Fixing hole in side of block
- Thread starter joesmith123
- Start date
Joe, you are missing the boat on this one. The teacher in an adult learning class at the community college, which goes on in the evenings, or on the weekends, are not there for the money really. They are there because they want to help people learn.
Don’t write this opportunity off too quickly. If you try it, you may find out that you’re mistaken in your opinion.
I took a welding class at my community college 52 years ago and still use what I learned during it. Having answers , pointers from a professional watching me , and proper equipment taught me the basics that gave me strong welds in a couple weeks. Not real pretty but proper penetration. Definitely the best way to get started.
More like brazing only a small few will ever get it right. By the time he gets done ? He could have just bought a good block or motor. It’s painful to see someone fail badly trying to prove knowledgeable welders wrong.Brazing is just like having sex. Once you have the torch in your hand it will come back to you. Just like sex, you won't be good at it the first time, it just takes a lot of practice. When you get old, brazing is just like sex, you have the desire, but sometimes it is just too much work, so you don't bother. YMMV
Pretty sad …
I mightve achieved the goal...
Heated cast iron, picture of thermometer is of the flux coated bronze being used
Notice how blue I got the cast iron in the BBQ grill
Last picture: melted bronze into the groove of the cast iron
Exactly what I did different: flame about 4 times stronger (whoever said that you are smart)
Left hand holding bronze was pushing down on area where we wanted it, soon as it melted, pull out and move to the next area to do another mini puddle
Now: in the oven on low heat, let it cool down and I post for yall hammer test in 15-30 minutes...
Sledgehammer will be used: for fun, while we wait for it to cool, say whether you think it will hold or not hold
Heated cast iron, picture of thermometer is of the flux coated bronze being used
Notice how blue I got the cast iron in the BBQ grill
Last picture: melted bronze into the groove of the cast iron
Exactly what I did different: flame about 4 times stronger (whoever said that you are smart)
Left hand holding bronze was pushing down on area where we wanted it, soon as it melted, pull out and move to the next area to do another mini puddle
Now: in the oven on low heat, let it cool down and I post for yall hammer test in 15-30 minutes...
Sledgehammer will be used: for fun, while we wait for it to cool, say whether you think it will hold or not hold
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My gosh, he has mastered brazing. I'll bet for him this feat is better than sex!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Good, now go buy JBWeld epoxy and fix the block cause there is no way you'll be able to braze the patch in and NOT destroy the block. Given the equipment you have and your level of practical knowledge, you will not succeed. Not trying to be mean or cruel, just a 'reality check'.
You need a LOT of serious heat ,in a CONTROLLED environment to braze the block.
You need a LOT of serious heat ,in a CONTROLLED environment to braze the block.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
NCL4701
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L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Not sure this is worth posting, but…
Somewhat before I was born, I think mid-1960’s, my father bought this Ford that had a long crack and chunk missing from the left side of the block. He rebuilt the engine and glued a piece of steel in the hole with some sort of two part epoxy. In the late 1970’s it started to weep coolant. I was tasked with removing the coolant, wire brushing as needed, and prepping to re-coat with JB Weld. The point was to make it functional and if it looked good or looked like crap was irrelevant.
If you zoom in on the below pic, you can see the left side of the block under the filter bowl looks kind of melted. That’s a large quantity of epoxy. The hole was big and the crack was bigger so it took a lot of epoxy. Doesn’t look good, but as of November 2022 when we gave it to a fellow who had a use for it, it hadn’t leaked again and it ran just fine.
First attempt at repair with epoxy lasted about 15 years +/-. Follow up with JB Weld lasted about 45 years +/- and still counting so far as I know.
No telling how many hours my father put on that thing with the epoxy repaired block. I’m confident I put well over 1000 hours on it myself, many of them would be considered abuse by many here as it was used as a skidder quite a bit. Yes, we got rid of it. Didn’t think I would ever part with it but after my father passed I couldn’t stand looking at it every time I went to the shed. Why isn’t relevant. Next to last time I drove it was on this trailer under its own power. Last time I drove it was off the trailer at its new home. It was running as good as ever and not leaking.
Point being, those who suggest epoxying a patch aren’t suggesting some half-a$$ repair that won’t last. Just something to consider. If it doesn’t work you’re out the cost of some JB Weld so it’s pretty low risk.
Braze it. Weld it. Do whatever you want. Hope it works out for you whatever you do.
Edit: BTW, for anyone actually looking at the photos, I’m aware the hood says Ferguson. It’s off a 35 (I think). Expertly fitted with a sledge hammer. It’s a junkyard hodge podge of a machine. Mostly a 9N, though.
Somewhat before I was born, I think mid-1960’s, my father bought this Ford that had a long crack and chunk missing from the left side of the block. He rebuilt the engine and glued a piece of steel in the hole with some sort of two part epoxy. In the late 1970’s it started to weep coolant. I was tasked with removing the coolant, wire brushing as needed, and prepping to re-coat with JB Weld. The point was to make it functional and if it looked good or looked like crap was irrelevant.
If you zoom in on the below pic, you can see the left side of the block under the filter bowl looks kind of melted. That’s a large quantity of epoxy. The hole was big and the crack was bigger so it took a lot of epoxy. Doesn’t look good, but as of November 2022 when we gave it to a fellow who had a use for it, it hadn’t leaked again and it ran just fine.
First attempt at repair with epoxy lasted about 15 years +/-. Follow up with JB Weld lasted about 45 years +/- and still counting so far as I know.
No telling how many hours my father put on that thing with the epoxy repaired block. I’m confident I put well over 1000 hours on it myself, many of them would be considered abuse by many here as it was used as a skidder quite a bit. Yes, we got rid of it. Didn’t think I would ever part with it but after my father passed I couldn’t stand looking at it every time I went to the shed. Why isn’t relevant. Next to last time I drove it was on this trailer under its own power. Last time I drove it was off the trailer at its new home. It was running as good as ever and not leaking.
Point being, those who suggest epoxying a patch aren’t suggesting some half-a$$ repair that won’t last. Just something to consider. If it doesn’t work you’re out the cost of some JB Weld so it’s pretty low risk.
Braze it. Weld it. Do whatever you want. Hope it works out for you whatever you do.
Edit: BTW, for anyone actually looking at the photos, I’m aware the hood says Ferguson. It’s off a 35 (I think). Expertly fitted with a sledge hammer. It’s a junkyard hodge podge of a machine. Mostly a 9N, though.
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