New profile posts

I am sure that you will find the proper set up on the snow blower. I have never used a snow blower due to the climate here in Northwestern Washington we just do not get enough snow to justify the expense of one, we do get what I call slop snow and a blower is absolutely not going to work on it. I just use my rear blade and front end loader.
I am waiting on getting a Country Line landscape rake as a local farm supply store is going out of business and I am waiting to see one get marked down as of right now they are $320 for the one that fits my tractor and I am waiting until next week to see if they lower the price some more.
I did get 2 bags of 35 pound Dog food at 30% off and the stuff I feed my dogs is expensive normally $50.00 a bag so I did save some money for the furr babies.

How did it go with the lights?
Did you purchase all you needed?
I'd encourage you to buy led lights, they can handle the shaking and are also brighter.
Keep me posted.

Finally had the chance to use old faithful for moving moving snow.
Definitley getting it figured out, a bit of a learning curve.
I'm using the blower in 1st gear (on pto) and it's firing snow like crazy.
When I'm in low reverse, pto in first I'm not getting enough rpm at the pto.
Although I hesitate to use 2nd gear for the pto it is the only way to get the enough rpm to fire snow.
I'm looking to install an rpm gauge on the pto, want to make sure I stay within working limits.
I've installed a work light, need 2 more for the back end.
Also looking to fabricate a mid mount plow. I will be a snow moving monster.

Okay. I have a L2550 kubota tractor 4 wd. Differential oil is leaking from the propeller shaft housing near the front differential. My question is: Is the shaft housing full of oil and do I have to pull the front differential down from the frame in order to remove it? Any help would be appreciated.

hi everyone, just purchased a terrific little L1500 which i found out later is a grey market model. found your site and understand that i have nothing to worry about now. i have located filters for engine oil, air and fuel and have fitted all with no hassle. not sure about transmission oil and filter/screen changing. i have had a bit of a look through this site and i am having trouble finding something on it. also i would like to purchase weights for the front bar as i am running a slasher and i find the steering very light. apart from that is there anything else i should check? GREAT SITE by the way.

Thank you and please keep up the good work.

Thanks Vic. Which one is it as there seems to be two of them and I'm confused with the numbers.

Hi, I would like to add some lights to my L3400 so I can see my back blade. Any advice on how to do it and where to start?

B20 lacks power- when I bought it, last summer, unit has 962 hrs, meter was frozen, but suspected it may have more hours. I fixed the meter and it works now. Have only run a few hours since. Person selling to me had some injector work done, injectors were rebuilt, fuel system was checked out. In low gear it will bellow out black smoke and drop rpms when you push the hydro pedal, even on a slight inclinde. I live at nearly 7000' altitude. I have replaced all fluids and filters, but not fuel filter yet. Unit will not start without glow plugs unless warm. Any thoughts on items to check out.

Vic I heard in one of your videos that you use the Tech2000 oil from Walmart. Do you know which Transmission oil I would use for my B8200 gear in that brand? The prices seem really good.

Thanks dunk. Your tractor looks great with those tires.

I have posted the pictures of my 6100 with tyres as requested. Hope you like it. Duncan

If the tractor is a 4 wheel drive you use 80/90 weight gear oil in the front axle. If it is a 2 wheel drive tractor it has bearings in the hub that have to be repacked every 2-3 years. I had a 2 wheel L-1801 and repacked the bearings every 2 years. All that was required was a cotter pin and a new rear seal. I simply took the old seal in to the dealer and had him match it and it worked fine.

We all make the mistakes and that is part of learning our tractors and since it was not damaged you learned that gear oil does not work.

Yeah I want to retract that question based of stupidity.
I used gear oil in the tranny in my first 2 weeks own tractor ownership and had problems.
Not sure why I thought it would be fine this time.
I am several lites low in the transmission.
What other than a leak would cause me to lose fluid?

I am using gear oil in the rear axel.
You mentioned rear oil in the front...is this only for 4wd models?

Should I grease front bearings?
Is the procedure similar to that on a car?

I would not use 80/90 weight oil in the transmission as you have a front end loader and the oil is to thick to flow easily. The 80/90 is fine for your front axle but the transmission oil needs to thinner for the front end loader and the 3 point hitch to work properly. YOu can get the right oil at WalMart for a fairly cheaper price then using UDT and it is already properly rated for your tractor. You just have remember that you are living in a area that has extreme temperatures and the thinner oil is required for where you live.

I have a pail of 80W90 gear oil.
Can I use this in my transmission?

Did you figure the problem out?
Machine wasn't staying running.

I just bought a 1997 B2100HST with a 301 loader and midmount mower. I sold my B7100 which was a tough little mule. Any advice on maintenance on the 2100?
Thanks

Manual showed up, thanks very much.
I plan on inverting the muffler, run it straight down. The fittings look like it will work alright.
Managed to secure turf tires, will pick them up next week.
Found tire chains on kijiji for $60.
I may stud the rice tires to see how they work in the winter.
Switch to the turfs if needed for winter, definitley switch come spring.
Still haven't told my wife I'm spending $800 on tires.

I think gravel in the winter will be almost as bad as pavement. But the screws are fairly cheap. If hard facing them is too big of a pain in the but, then just put in the screws and keep an eye and replace them as they get worn. These screws wouldn't work in normal tires, they are too long. But in the rice tires they shoud never pull out as long as they are centered in the tread. Hard face or not, I think it is a great idea. Just buy lots of screws so you don't run out. Here you can buy studs from the farm dealerships. No idea on price, but I can find out easy enough. Dusty