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I appreciate your response.

I looked at Generac. They have a good advertising budget and sell at all the box stores. Around here we have Lowes, Homedepot and Menards. Menards offers 11% in store credit for any purchase in the store. That's a nice credit since they all charge the exact same price. But I decided against them to go with Kohler.

The guy who has the Kohler will bring it to me, set it, let me find installers for wiring, trench, propane connection, and then he comes back and does start up. He installs in the county he located in but doesn't have permits/license in this county and apparently doesn't want to deal with them.

He quoted $6550 for the unit, plus carb heater $170, plus Interstate Battery $145, delivery, set generator, start up and registration $600 for a total of $7485 plus tax. All that seems reasonable to me. If I can stir up a licensed electrician I'm hoping to get that done for $2500 or less.
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dirtydeed
Yes. In my opinion it's worth it. If you can turn the genset to direct the exhaust away from you, even better.
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D2Cat
Thanks for you input. I just talked to an electrician and he's coming by tomorrow morning to look at the project and give a bid. Maybe I can get this done by winter.
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dirtydeed
Awesome. Do look at that regulator valve that I had to replace when you get yours. That was pretty frustrating to find out what was causing the low engine rpms.
B7100 HYDROSTATIC FORWARD/REVERSE INTERMITTENT ISSUE
I seem to run into an issue where I run the tractor for an extended time using a bushog or mid section mower and all of a sudden it I cannot drive it forward or reverse for perhaps 20 seconds or so. The PTO still works and is spinning and after the short wait it works just fine. Is the hydrostatic drive just overheating or is this another issue I need to concern myself with? This is an older (81) 4 wheel drive which has about 1400hrs logged and works fine otherwise (has a bucket as well).
Any help or info would be appreciated, thanks.
I’d like the sealed one for the $30. Give me guidance on how to send the $. I can Paypal to your email, snail mail a check, or ??
Ralph in NH 03837
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dieselbob69
My Paypal is reprice1us@yahoo.com - My next day off is next Wednesday(7/20)so that’s earliest I’ll be able to ship out, as I work 7am-7:15pm- Bob
RDinNHandAZ
RDinNHandAZ
Thanks, Your Paypal Payment sent to you as "friend payment" to pay for the sealed manual postpaid. Shipping on Wednesday is fine and my address is:
Ralph Hudson
427 Stone Road
Gilmanton Iron Works, NH 03837
Be well.
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dieselbob69
Thank you Ralph! I'll get the manual out Wednesday morning and give you tracking once I get it. Take care and have a nice weekend-Bob
I have a TG 1860 diesel, that I cannot get neutral. Good forward, then you have to hit the pedal down hard for reverse and it skids. You have to go back and forth several times to find neutral. Can't see an adjustment to allow an easy neutral. Any help would be appreciated, thanks, Bill
If you happen to read this, please reply with a link to the thread you found that talks about replacing the rear lift link. Specifically how you managed to insert the link through both sides of the frame and have all line up properly. I'm searching but must not be using the proper words. Thanks!
Craig
you can email me at craigz28@comcast.net
I have 1986 L345 DT w/loader. I was using an auger, the auger corkscrewed and the 3-point would not lift it. With the PTO still turning, I put the tractor in gear and attempted to slip the clutch to get the tractor to ease forward in an attempt to shake it loose. Instead, the bump killed the tractor with the auger buried. I pushed in the clutch and the starter would not engage at all. I also had a lot of difficulty getting the PTO to disengage, but it finally did. I used another tractor to pull the auger, towed the tractor to the shop and have been trying to get the starter to work ever since. I'm guessing there is a safety switch somewhere that I've somehow ticked off. There is a switch against the block, directly ahead of the brake pedal. It's spring loaded and has an adjustment but I can't find anything that would possible trip it.
I can jump the starter from the battery, but have not been able to get the starter switch to engage the starter since burying the auger.
Do u still have the mower deck for sale? THANKS
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RobbAR
I am sorry for the long delay in answering, I am not on that often. Yes I do still have the deck, it has been kept inside out of the weather and still looks exactly like the photos. I am in Arkansas so some kind of arrangements could e made to meet for delivery. 479-6one9-5379
Hey cat did we or did we not have a listing of where people are from? I was thinking of a meet and greet maybe and was wondering who was from around SW Pa
Hi, were you able to obtain a part number or manufacturer for the antiscalp bracket written in several posts for the Kabota deck ?

Joe
The bx 2200 and bx series tractors tend to run hot and are very sensitive to lack of air flow through the radiator. i have made one major change on my Kubota bx 2200 a after mart radiator for a Honda auto it has three rows of tubes and aluminum tanks top and bottom of the radiator. Rework of the an shroud is required I have a press brake for re bending of the shroud a big job. A new 5 blade fan is next. Please let me know if you have made any other improvements to the cooling system
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Orange crusher, I'm new to the forum. I have a 2018 BX2680 w/ 322 hrs and the quick coupler with the lever assembly has a leak on the white line side. I want to do the same mod that you and john T did. I saw his parts list of 4 sets of pioneer couplers, 4 3/8" JIC to 1/4" NPT adapters and the tube clamps. When he said 4 sets that is the males and female correct? When did you get your coupler covers and are you happy with them? Thanks, Steve