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Oh yeah when starting after the filter change and bleeding I glowed plugged for a minute then I used the decompression lever and pulled it out and spun up the engine until the oil light went out then tried starting. It generally took a couple try's to start but it will catch and then I simply checked for leaks.
Meanjean, When I replaced the radiator hoses on my L1801 I just took the old hoses off and made a trip to NAPA and they match the hoses on mine. I would recommend that you also replace the lower hose at the same time. That way you are in once and back out. ON the filter change you still will need to bleed the lines . There should be a screw in thing that has a straight slot screw driver thing next to the fuel filter and one on the pump. You loosen these until no more bubbles appear and then retighten. You do not completely remove these just loosen until the fuel starts out of them.
Top hose is where the leak is.
Can I use any rad hose or does it have to be Kubota?
I'm tempted to go to the shop and buy a regular rad hose.
Looking to buy the fuel filter tomorrow. I recall a video which mentions being able to change the filter without having to bleed the lines.
Something about tightening the filter half on, opening the pet-cock, tightening the filter all the way on when fuel pours out.
Are you familiar with this method?
Can I use any rad hose or does it have to be Kubota?
I'm tempted to go to the shop and buy a regular rad hose.
Looking to buy the fuel filter tomorrow. I recall a video which mentions being able to change the filter without having to bleed the lines.
Something about tightening the filter half on, opening the pet-cock, tightening the filter all the way on when fuel pours out.
Are you familiar with this method?
If I was guessing on that other tractor I bet it's a safety switch that's keeping it from starting. I have had very good luck with my Kubotas. I have 2 right now, my 2nd and forth. My dad bought me a used B 7100 when I was a kid and I used that tractor for everything. I kept it for 16 yrs and when I traded it in on my L 3000 it had over 6000 hrs on it and still running fine. I bought a M 9000 in 02 and traded it in on a M 9000 cab model in 04. I would like to have another one in the 50 to 70 hp range. Good luck with your bota.
Sounds like a bizarre machine. I look forward to chatting with my Dad re: this tr9tor as it would interest him.
How would you trouble shoot buddies no start problem?
Needed some more info from him. IE: Is it turning over?
I've had my L1801 since Aug 2 and am really happy with it. Use to take me almost 7 hours to mow our 5 acres. Now I'm down to roughly 2.
Changed out all fluids but the coolant. Doing fuel filter early next week.
How would you trouble shoot buddies no start problem?
Needed some more info from him. IE: Is it turning over?
I've had my L1801 since Aug 2 and am really happy with it. Use to take me almost 7 hours to mow our 5 acres. Now I'm down to roughly 2.
Changed out all fluids but the coolant. Doing fuel filter early next week.
On the radiator leak really check the upper and lower hoses as they are alot of the time they are really old. I have found more leaks from the hoses then the radiator itself. If the top or bottom of the tank are leaking then the radiator will have to be pulled and easiest thing to do is to find a radiator shop that can braze it. I would also at that time also have them "rod" the inner parts of the radiator and you will have then a complete rebuild of the radiator and not have to worry about it. If the radiator is rodded out I also would take the hoses off and go to NAPA and have them match or look up a L185 hoses as I believe that they are the same (I am not absolutely sure on this) as when I got my L1801 it had brand new hoses on it 7 years ago and never had to have them replaced. If you can not find a rad shop then a new radiator is the only option but that is expensive and you will have to order a radiator for a L185.
Diesel engines have a set firing order like a gas engine and require fuel and air to run but that is about where the similarities end. Diesels don't require spark plugs to fire. They have a much higher compression ratio than gas engines do and actually compress the fuel until it burns. The diesel tractor I refered to with spark plugs in it is still a amazing feet of engineering to me. It was a old (50 something model) International Farmall M D. I guess the reason for what they did was simply a lack of diesel technology and this was how there starting problems were solved. This tractor was both a gas and diesel engine in one. It started on gas and after a short warm up you would switch it to diesel. After you switched it to diesel this is where you left it during operation. The gas was only for start up and shut down. It only idled during the gas operation. Pretty neat tractor though. It was a work horse back in the day.
Been nice chatting with you. Drop me a line anytime.
Been nice chatting with you. Drop me a line anytime.
I swapped out the oil filter last week thinking it was something else. Just draining the rear axel fluid now, will have it all changed out in 30 mins.
Just noticed a rad leak...damn.
Fuel filter will be replaced next week.
Feels good getting all the fluids changed.
Thabks for the advise.
Just noticed a rad leak...damn.
Fuel filter will be replaced next week.
Feels good getting all the fluids changed.
Thabks for the advise.